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mg1199

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  1. when i had my 650, i had some high ride primer problems with a few rounds. what i noticed was that priming spring assembly (the part that gets compressed) underneath the shell plate was loose. i just used a wrench to snug it and it was fine since then.
  2. Another idea you might try is to see if you can place your computers IP address into the DMZ zone of the router. This will put your computer outside of your firewall and bypass the normal router functions. test the speed after you have done that. (choose one of the speed sites, and just stick with that. speed can vary from site to site becuase of hte number of hops that your packet will have to travel through. if there are only a few number of hops, and you aren't losing a lot of ms because of it, then it will be more realistic. you can find the # of hops your packet travels to that site by opening up a dos window and typing :> ping xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx which is the ip address of the speed site that you are using. this will give you the relative "internet distance" that your info (packet) has to travel.) afterwards disable the DMZ function, which will put your computer behind the firewall again, and then re-test the speed. if there is a significant difference in speed, your router could have one of the filtering features on (although it shouldn't be that drastic of a speed difference). what you should do is take a look at all the router settings, and turn off any sort of filtering, and then repeat the test. if you can do a complete factory reset of the router, that would be better. usually there is a reset button somewhere on the back of the router than you can press while you power it up, which should put all the settings back to factory. if there isn't a speed difference after you have tried the DMZ, well then.... i'm not exactly sure. if you have tried the same internet speed test site with both the router connected, as well as not connected (on the same computer also), then i would think that there is something defective with the router. still have the receipt?
  3. hey that bucket is a good idea. it can double up for other things as well. find a nice bush.... grab something to read....
  4. mousti posted: Colt dectective special did this gun come with a gold nugget ring?
  5. if you're going to get a separate machine just for a single caliber (45), then i would recommend the 1050 if your budget allows for it, primarily for speed. I was able to load significantly faster than i did on my 650. having all the operations performed on the downstroke speeds things up tremendously for me. To answer your question as to which is machine would be easier to adjust the powder charge and bullet seating depth, they are both the same. Both of the toolheads have adquate clearance access the the powder charge and seating station. The powder charge adjustment on both the 650 and 1050 is the same as what you are familiar with on the 550. If you use the same bullet seating die on the 550 as on the 650/1050, nothing has changed. If you want to make it easier for you on the bullet seating depth, I would recommend what BerKim suggested - Redding Competition Seating die.
  6. i just recently gave my 650 away, but when i was reloading on it, i didn't use the powder check - just kept that die position empty. i've had my 650 for about 7 years, and loaded quite a few rounds without any squibs. I'm very careful with my loading however, and keep an eye on the shellplate to observe any malfunctions, etc. - wasn't reloading for speed (until i got my 1050 ) I mainly loaded 9mm and 38 super (3.5-10grns). I could be wrong, but from my understanding, the powder check station will only catch measures that are grossly out of whack. if i ever had the situation where the machine jammed during the middle of a powder throw, i would visually check the power amount in the case, after i cleared the jam, to see if it visually looked like it was doubled or empty. never found one.
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