NETim

I just tossed out my experience as an attempt to point out there are no hard and fast rules concerning bullet profile and COAL.

I have the opposite experience with FP's vs RN's in my Apex Tactical barrels. (ACME Bullets) I have to load the FP's shorter.

The loose nut behind the pistol costs me enough points in a match that I can't afford to give up any more due to ammo foul ups. The Shockbottle gauge gives me a chance to give EVERY match round a good inspection before they get boxed up. I love the Apex Tactical barrels in my M&P's but they're not nearly as forgiving as the OEM S&W barrels. The Apex barrels have a MUCH tighter chamber and even rounds that pass my Dillon case gauge may hang up in the Apex barrels. The Shockbottle catches those marginal rounds. (Usually CBC brass.)

I just toss in a handful or two when the feeder starts sounding low on brass. Doesn't take long. But I'm just puttering along, operating the machine manually.

Spray on case lube works wonders IMHO. I'm not sure any one brand is better than the other. Regardless, using it does make a dramatic difference on both the up and down stroke effort.

Sound advice right there.

When I scroll down the page to the "Shield standard" red dot section, I see the Leupy Delta Point Pro.

https://optics-info.com/footprints-on-red-dot-sights/

A little discussion on USPSA scoring is here: https://www.glocktalk.com/threads/uspsa-scoring-line-on-practiscore.1776042/ It is entirely possible to have a faster time on a stage (or the entire match for that matter) and still finish behind someone who is shooting more accurately and/or acquiring less procedurals etc.

The 5" guns are a little more muzzle heavy, which I prefer.

I'm happy with Brass Juice. No pins.

To reduce side loading on the drop tube, I ty-wrapped the feeder spring tube to the top of the powder measure and then pushed a few coils down past the ty-wrap to maybe put a bit more downward pressure on the drop tube. The spring can't exert much side pressure on the drop tube now. I also wrapped some heavy solder wire around the drop tube itself to give it a bit more downforce. It sounds to me like maybe there might be a burr or some some kind of "gunk" inside the drop tube that is hanging up the bullets as they pass through. Maybe consider pulling it apart and give it a look? But beware! Once you pull the spring clip out of the drop tube and separate the tube from the main die body, those little ball bearings are going to come out and they like to get lost. So pull the die apart over a bowl or something to capture the ball bearings. Edited to add: Also ensure the spring clip isn't being interfered with by the powder measure. I've noticed the spring clip can, and will, be held up slightly by the powder measure body.

I had to back my Bayou, Acme and DG coated 124's down to 1.07" to pass the "plunk" test on the Apex barrels I installed on my M&P's. I had been running at 1.15" with the OEM barrels. My Glocks? They don't care. I think they d chamber up corn cobs if I asked them to.

I am hesitant to chime in here as I am no one's idea of a good shooter, so take it for what it's worth. I find that placing more finger on the trigger when shooting WHO yields a more stable front sight/dot when breaking the shot while dryfiring. Live fire seems to confirm this as well. I really have to follow through and concentrate as well. Otherwise I push the shots low left. (LH shooter.) Good luck from another almost Super Senior!

That method worked like a charm for me when I had a case head separation in a .243 Win.

I'm wondering if maybe a drywall anchor that expands out to grab the brass might work?

This is simply an experiment to see if a light is warranted and/or useful for this game. I have several really good Surefire handhelds for use outside of the gaming arena where reliability is far more crucial.

CBC brass is my enemy. About 95% of CBC brass loads are rejected by my Hundo.

The long awaited package from China arrived today. It contained a light that looks a lot like a famous brand weapon light. Okay, no momentary position on the switch, but the light is bright, which is critical for CO needs. Ahem. The light would not snap on to M&P's rail and lock as received. The trigger guard interfered with the light. So, being a graduate of JimBob's Internet School of Dremelology, I hit the light with the Dremel fitted with a sanding drum. (This is where a $30 light gives much piece of mind during this delicate procedure.) I removed some material from the battery cover on the rear of the light with the precision that only a Dremel can provide. After a few minutes of that plus a little work with a sanding stick, I got the light to lock onto the rail. I haven't fired it yet, but I'm confident the light will stand up to the high speed requirements that a C Class shooter demands.

https://optics-info.com/footprints-on-red-dot-sights/

CMORE MT500 plate on top of an S&W #4 plate. https://cmore.com/Item/MT-500

I ordered some of these today: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IUVIN36/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My FTP Alpha doesn't seem to gunk up nearly as fast on M&P 1.0. #2 as the Delta Point Pro does on M&P 1.0 #1. 5 stage matches are usually no problem on the DPP. I usually don't clean it until I start dryfiring it and notice the gunk. Apex barrels on both. Burning W231, which isn't known to be the cleanest stuff around.

RO should have said, "STOP!" and checked for a blockage in the barrel with a zip tie or the like. https://nroi.org/ro-best-practices/squib-confusion/ As far as I'm concerned, while technically NOT a squib, it should have been treated as such. ULSC, send them off to clear it (with another RO preferably) and score the stage. I wouldn't be comfortable with anyone jacking around the muzzle on the line no matter what the shape of their squib rod.

I love using the Commander with the Practiscore Log app.