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dsb1829

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    Doug Brummett

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  1. I know this is a really old thread, but Im grasping for info.

     

    On the Glock captured recoil spring, how does it reinstall?  Once you take it out, what do you do to keep it in place when you reassemble the spring?

     

     

  2. Yeah but the one I could find is ported which would put me in open!!! I snapped up a 28" ($550 Gander MTN), chopped it to 22.5, remounted the bead, put NC ext & clamp on ($120), sent trigger group off for lifter weld and trigger job ($110), and then did some dremel/file work. Easy enough to do with basic tools. I may send off for choke threading, but smooth bore is plenty accurate for my local range. This setup can easily be recreated in current market and you can likely grab the base gun cheaper if you hunt around.
  3. I have been scouting around on this topic. Carlson appears to be the best deal if you pair the gunsmithing up with 3 new chokes.
  4. Deal was still up yesterday. I ordered and received mine last month. No issue.
  5. I had that gas / spreckle of dust in my face last week. I also finished the COF,but in retrospect I should have stopped immediately and figured out what happened. It was a local unofficial match, so not worth risk to gun or self that could happen. I didn't find the offending case.
  6. My WC has been trouble free and dropped in with no fitting on my G22. I still need to slug measure it as I am getting a bit of leading. It is more accurate and allows me to shoot lead without fear. Also the chamber is tighter so it doesn't work the brass as much. I can't say if it is worth it for you. I feel it was a good investment.
  7. Did this tonight. It was mostly painless. I bought a new glock factory recoil assembly as the donor and swapped it for a 13lb ISMI. A pair of pliers with a good wedge to pry loose the endcap was all it took. Now I have a factory recoil setup and an IDPA/USPSA legal lower power captured setup. Cost about $30 total to my door to do it this way via Midway. Thanks driver!
  8. There is a difference between glocked brass and glock smiles. If they have smiles they are done (this is the brass that the Lee disclaimer is aimed at). If reused they could fail. Glocked brass comes out with a bulge at the base that is out to the chamber dimension (.434-.435 in my g20). I use the Lee BB and FCD to prep all of my .40 brass. Yes, it is an extra step but I have had 100% feeding by this method.
  9. I have the Lee BB and FCD combo for use on 10mm and .40. I run all my cases throught it for both cartridges. I have had zero feeding or reloading issues. Only complaint is that the operation is not ergonomic and my fingers cramp from time to time when I sit down with a few hundred rounds. A case feed would be nice, but I am cheap so I will get by.
  10. I started my 10mm journey with a S&W 1006. I followed shortly with a glock20SF. The next item in short order was reloading equipment... I have been shooting a weekly IDPA match at one of the local ranges since late November. During that time I have shot 45acp, 10mm, and .40. Out of 2 separate g22 .40 cal guns I have yet to have any feeding or ejection problems. My 1911 and g20 both have random gremlins that sneak up, especially with fast powder and light load combinations. I have come to realize that both will require tuning to an unknown extent if I want to run them competitively in matches. That said, put the gun/ competition conversation to the side, the 10mm is fun to reload. The cartridge can be whatever you want. Glocktalk 10mm reloading board has a lot of guys with 10mm reload specific experience. One of them has been scouring the web and compiling every 10mm load he can find, he keeps it in a shared google doc for all to see. My go-to load is 180g XTP JHP(or Magnus J134 which is a cheap twin), 10.4g of BlueDot, loaded to 1.25 COAL, with a CCI LPP or WLP.
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