BullyDog
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Posts posted by BullyDog
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Anybody have a site or load data using them on 9mm?
I have 380 bullets, but I shoot more 9 mm then 380.
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102 grain Montana Gold 9mm??
The only 102 grain 9mm bullet I know of off the top of my head is a Remington 102 grain Golden Saber they use in the 380 Auto. They are the same color as MG, being a brass jacket.
Does it look like the bullet at this link?:
Yep that is them, can these be loaded for 9mm?
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Just picked up some bullets from a guy, anyone ever load a 102 gr hp Montana gold?
Seems like a odd size bullet.
I bought them to possible load 9mm with.
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Check your cases to verify they are bulged on the bottom from a over charged.
If they are bulged loosen the shell plate.
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Your problem might be with the primer tube.
You might need to replace the plastic piece on the end of the tube. If this piece of plastic is worn or damage it won't allow the primer to drop into the primer slide bar.
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Ok, well I found an extra rod to put in the die. I thought this was working great, went through 170 pieces of brass. It started to get hard to push the handle all the way down. I decided to unscrew the rod and inspect it, the rod was not bent but it broke off part of the die where you screw the rod in. Man, I just can't get this thing right!
What die are you using to FL size and decapping? I use the Redding on my 650 for pistol, is that a better die to use on the 1050. As of now I am using the Dillon Carbide die.
Any help would be much appreciated!!!!
Are you trying to de-prime Berdan cases?
Also, spray the cases with lube and let them dry for about 15-30 minutes. Don't try and resize them wet.
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It appears your cutting blade is backwards, and your trimming a little too much off the brass.
The cut should be flat and not rounded.
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I just put about a capful in my big dillon once a month. Let it run about 10 minutes or so until you don't see any lumps.
Dump in your brass and let it run until brass is shinny.
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If you don't mind plinkers for $80 a 1000
http://www.topbrass-inc.com/reloading-supplies/product_details.php?category_id=28&item_id=343
They work great.
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pull the entire tool out pour the powder into the jug through a funnel,then cycle the slide over top of the jug untill no more powder comes out.
This ^^^^
1. remove the failsafe rod from the powder throw bellcrank
2. remove the two pins holding the tool head in the frame
3. remove the tool head with the powder measure
4. pour powder back into original container, shake it a little and again pour out whatever is left.
5. then hold the tool head upright with the powder drop over your container and hand cycle the bellcrank and powder throw a couple of times....and then it is totally empty.
Takes longer to describe than it does to perform.
A few additional tips (discovered the hard way):
- write the powder type that is in the hopper on some blue tape and stick it to the outside of the hopper
- never have more than one container of powder on your bench at one time - and that is the one you are currently using
- use a funnel when pouring powder (coleman makes a nice aluminum funnel for use with their white gas stoves and lanterns, no static build up)
- Personally, I don't leave powder in the hopper any more unless it is just for a short break. Never know what might happen
Good Luck with your load development!
Same method, but I use can air to blow out anything that might be left.
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Super, what a great for Christmas. With the current events, this stuff might as well be a investment.
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Now the powder and primers are out of stock at powdervalley.com
If you don't hold it, you don't own it.
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Has anyone notice the prices today for once fired brass? Almost all the sites are either out of stock or just doubled the prices in the last day or so.
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That slop is cause by tightening the tool head bolt with the arm in the raised up position.
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I wear hearing protection, and mine are both new. With the vac and trimmer ruuning without protection gives me ringing in the ears.
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I have two big dillon media tumblers, and two stainless tumblers.
I prefer the stainless over the media, but find myself using the media more.
The media is much faster, and I can do a lot more brass.
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Does this work? I would really like to prep my 300 win mag brass.
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I decap resize & expand, swage, then trim on 1st head. (3 dies, Dillon FL carbid, swager, and trimmer)
then tumble to remove lube.
2nd head;
clear primer pocket with univ-decapper
bell case mouth
prime
powder
bullet seat
crimp
I run LOTS of 223 and 308 this way for 3gun. 5-10k each in a year. its the quickest and most efficient that I have found. I get ammo that chambers, fires, is very accurate, and I don't spend a lot of time or effort doing it. I am not interested in pencil sharpeners for trimmers, way too much brass handling, and it hurts my hands. I don't de-burr or chamfer, proved to myself it was a waste of time by actually testing it on the range. I just tumble clean the brass, run it thru the processing head, tumble it again, and then load it with the 2nd head.
of course there are going to be lots of different ways to do it, but as long as you end up with ammo that suits your wishes, thats the most important.
jj
That is the exact same process I do, I thought it was only me that done it that way on my 1050.
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When I had my 550 I had the same problem with about a 1000 308 machine gun brass.
I thought I would never get through them. No matter how much lube I tried they would stick or break off the bottom of the case.
The only thing I found that worked was vegetable oil, just rub it on the outside of the cases. A rag works great if you just roll them on it.
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I cleaned it and use lube.
It's weird, it only sticks on this die and not on the 308 dillon trim die.
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A buddy of mine recently dropped off some .308 to resize and trim in my 1050. I had nothing but problems on the first few rounds.
Come to find out the cases are all bulged on the bottom from shooting max charge through them. They would not index into the shell plate.
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I must have loaded thousands of rounds of lake city brass in the past six months. Do these dies tend to wear out over time? It seems no matter what I do it sticks on the up-swing on my 1050.
Should I buy a new sizing die?
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i got 2 1050 loaders and love them 9 and 45.
Me too, I just got rid of my 650's and went with a 1050 RL for small primers and a super 1050 for large primers.
I agree, I love the ease of loading.
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It's the cases, check for nicks or burs on the bottom of the cases.
Machine gun brass usually nicks the bottom of the brass which will cause it not to align with the shell plate.
I just did some thousand shells and dwelt with these also.
102 gr hp mg bullets
in 9mm/38 Caliber
Posted
Great, I will load a few and try them out.
Thanks