repins1911

I have built a few 1911s and used both methods when fitting the slide to frame. Looking for the input of some the smiths that have have used both and what your preference is and why. I know some guys will only use files and stones but wanted to see what the general consensus was for my own edification; and for some tinkerers that may want to do a full build. Thanks in advance!

Sound like the mag catch as others have stated. Try all the above solutions. Also, remove the slide and look into the frame from above; grip like you would when shooting and press and hold the trigger to see if it is bowing into the mag channel. Just process of elimination. Let us know how it turns out, might help someone in the future. Good luck!

One of the shooting schools will snatch that line up and put on a shirt! It is a great quote and very true.

As requested.

Can't remember where I read it but, the bottom screws are for aesthetic appeal (eye of the beholder). You could fill them in, most of the epoxies can be stippled and you just add black (or whatever color your grip is) dye.

If you are concerned that the barrel is not fitted properly, take it to a local smith and have him check it over. Most guys won't charge for just a look and I would just be happy to play with a marauder. You can also use a grease pen to see if is sitting uneven on the feet. Lots of threads with pictures to help you out, here and on the 1911 forum.

Probably just one of those one in a hundred thousand chance deals and you were the unlucky "one." I had a bushing shatter on a fairly new Dan Wesson with less than 1500 rounds through it. I am sure STI will make it right.

+1 I can not stand at the 25 yard line and shoot static worth a darn, but give me multiple targets and add some movement to turn off my brain and I can make really great shots and groups. Kudos to the guys that can do both. Guess I need to think about not thinking, lol.

I thought CZs have 1/10? They have a 1/9.7 twist, I stand corrected. Any idea how many grooves in the Smith barrel, the CZ has six.

If you have already built a few 1911s then the hardest part of a 2011 build is familiar to you. The same areas require special attention: slide to frame, barrel to slide and frame. Phoenix Trinity makes 2011 frames as well as CK Arms. Both are very high quality and exacting tolerances. As far as a grip, I would wait with a metal one until you actually get to hold and/or shoot with one. The polymer grips are what they are. Try to find a used one and see what you can do with it as far as your preferences. If you screw it up, get another. I have fairly large hands so I never really attempted to reduce the circumference of an STI grip, just undercut it as much as possible and light texturing. As far as the 5.4 slide, you could get a 6" and have it cut, pretty sure that is what the big name guys have to do. If you send one to get cut, you can have the sight cuts, slide serrations, flat topped, tri-topped, or lightening cuts done all at the same time. You know the deal, go slow, take your time, if you get frustrated walk away from the bench for a while. Good luck!

Schuemann website states they are doing equipment repairs.

LOL! Its a proven tactic. Hard to shoot what you can't see. I am sure you remember the 113 smokers in NTC. He is also reducing the amount of oxygen they can absorb.

If you are shooting one of the "new" M&P barrels denoted by the one or two dimples on the underside they supposedly have a 1/10 twist rate. The CZ barrels have a 1/16. I am not stating the M&P twist rate as fact, just what I read. But if the twist rates are that different, it might have some effect on your power factor. I know twist rates are supposed to affect the stabilization of the bullet and not FPS, but it is possible.

Just my opinion, but I would just run two belts set up the way you want. Single stack mag carriers are pretty affordable. Used kydex is pretty easy to locate on most forums. Switching the insert in the CR speed pouches is an option, but you will be changing more than just the insert; most likely spacing and angle as well. Unless you are not running an inner/outer belt. Just a thought.

Absolute marketing genius. Create a product no one knew they wanted until they see it, well played STI, well played.

So starting a new build. I ordered a CK Arms frame from Shooters Connection (who shipped it the same day, just saying). Looked for some reviews on their frames but could not find any, so I figured I would do one. I am not a "known" smith and do not refer to myself as one. I have built many 1911s and one 2011 and worked on all sorts of different handguns, rifles, shotguns. Grew up in my Father's gun shop and range and just had a knack for it. My smithing career was somewhat sidetracked for 20 years while in the Army; wasn't stateside enough to really get things going. Anyway, just a little background info on me so that hopefully the review holds a little more water than a shooter that arbitrarily decided to share his opinion. Wanted to try something a little different and ordered the classic tactical CK frame with the intention of building a Marauder clone. I know Matt is a very respected smith and with the price of the frame and his reputation, I figured I couldn't go wrong. Finish of the frame is excellent, no tool marks. Frame is square and rails are parallel. The barrel bed is dead center between the rails. I took the frame to the local technical college where the head machining instructor happens to be a shooting buddy. We measured everything that we could think of in his super high speed measuring machine. The most anything was off was off by tenths of thousands. So yeah, their frames are worth a look. Price is very reasonable. Made by a company that stands by their products and firearms. I highly recommend their components and products. (I have shot a Cheely limited gun and was more than impressed with the quality.)

The DW is the way to go. It is super tight but still functions flawlessly. Shot mine in steel challenge and never had a malfunction.

I ran Wilson mags in my DW Pointman 9, had zero issues. Buddy had a Springer 9mm and had to use Cobra mags. Try a few different brands if you can to see if your pistol prefers one over the other.

You don't "need" a conversion barrel but, it will provide a tighter lock up. A regular 9mm barrel will have some slop, just not as much metal there.

No worries, lol. I know I have put my foot in my mouth a couple of times in regards to specs. Kind of a "you can't see the forrest for the trees" type occasion. Good luck with the build!

Talk to Jim at Advanced Performance Shooting. He is in the vendor section and has a website. He is an expert on what one can and can't do with 2011 grips.

I have done a few reductions. Used Loctite marine epoxy, JB weld and Acraglass gel. I prefer the Acraglass. I have not used the Devcon. I really like the spray on bedliner as a finish. If you find that your stippling or blasting media is too course, just add another coat or two of bed liner and it will soften the bite. Plus a can is enough to do two or three frames.

Most of the classes taught by ex-operators (Kyle Lamb, Larry Vickers) from one service or another teach this. It has its place on the two way range especially when in close quarters. Just because a "target" goes down does not mean he is out of the fight. Speaking from experience as a retired infantryman most do not stay down with one or two hits from FMJ, even with good shot placement. Body armor is a reoccurring theme amongst the current crop of bad guys.

This is as close to truth as it gets. Just had a match Sunday; first one in a year. The third stage I was last in the firing order, I watched every shooter before me and pasted targets/reset steel. But all of that did not keep me from sprinting right past a window with a bank of targets. I was wondering why my time was so fast when they called it out! Oh well, going to get some darker glasses, maybe that will help.

I broke a Witness trying to straighten it out with a hammer, they're pretty brittle Yep, I hear you. I did apply some indirect heat prior to reshaping; nothing too hot just warmed it up enough that i needed a thin glove to handle it. Had a spare trigger in the parts box otherwise I probably would not have tried it.