Djstorm100

I just bought my FART. Guys that are loading precision rifle what ratio are you using for pins to brass? I size and then tumble for 15minutes. The way I tumble now is using a harbor freight tumbler that I made a container out of 4" PVC. Do you guys notice the inside of the FART getting dirty/staining from the carbon? With PVC the carbon would continue to stain and get to a point where the brass would come out gray, dull. Think this is why the Thumbler uses the rubber insert, since the carbon will not stain it. The containers that came with the HF tumbler confirm this.

So I just got the +7 in and with the spring being 18inch longs I'm able to get 12 in the tube. I know some guys cut it down to get more or to ligthen up the pressure, so question is should I do anything to it.

Thanks, didn't know if there is a rule of thumb how far out you can go. I'll go witha +6, hopefully be 11 in the tube and 1 in the chamber. What about chokes IC and M ? Is there anything else that I should get, other than ammo? Have about 600 shells now. Wife hates going to walmart becaust I'll buy a box everytime. Little here and a little there adds up quickly. Did take the mid beat, screw for the bolt release and add a small amount of blue loctie.

Hey guys, just picked one up and I'm in love. It's so much smoother than my JM Pro that I sold. I found the 2 type of chokes most run but for some reason can't find it anymore. Can someone help me? IC and M Clarkson Optima HP correct? Also with a 24" barrel 6+ extention tube will be the longest I can run without issue correct?

Ugh... I just bought a SP-01.... Atleast you guys will be getting more money from me. lol

Make sure the added grip tape does not prevent the mag from fitting the USPSA magazine gauge... it sucks to get bumped to Open. could have a machine shop knurl it

Looking to get some base plate extensions and if at all possible something like the Arredondo setup (how it locks up just like the factory mag) is preferred. However I am open to anything. Reliability is number 1.

I just got my forster dies for .308 and love their FL and Mircometer seating die.

Would this be ok with using different lots/headstamps of brass? I would assume so since the neck is blown out to my chamber. However that is the OD and not the ID. ID would be the dependent on amount of "blow out" and the wall thickness, correct?

Thanks Mike!

What about Redding National Match? I always hear Redding or Forster

I use RCBS dies not. But been thinking about getting Redding match or competition set dies as they produce fast less run out. Yes, this a semi and yes there are many different things that can effect shot placement because it is a semi. But looking to extract more out of my rifle through dies. I do load on a Lee press, would there be any benefit in going with a Redding type single stange or RCBS perhaps? I have no trouble hitting targets with it at competition but these are 1 moa or 2 moa targets at distance.

Well...things are not going to get interesting.

Well at least you didn't say my method was wrong lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Deer, I measure the case mouth ID then wall thickness. Then measure the pill. I take multiple measurement and average them and use those to calculate neck tension. I do not turn my necks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Deer, I measure the case mouth ID then wall thickness. Then measure the pill. I take multiple measurement and average them and use those to calculate neck tension. I do not turn my necks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I use a headspace garage to measure shoulder bumping back. I also measure neck tensions since I just pick up a lee collect die. The rcbs dies where cut to long I confirmed with rcbs after some measurement. Pick up some Hornady dies. Plan to use lee neck die and hornady bull let seating die Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've been shooting Federal Gold Match with 175SMK and keeping the form fire brass just for this rifle (Remington 700 AAC-SD) I reload on a single Lee press. This is where I'm getting confused. I tired to chamber the empty brass in to the rifle and it chambers fine, this of course was without a bullet/primer/powder. Just using the brass case. It chamber fine! What I though would happen is, the brass wouldn't chamber and I would need to bump the shoulder back. I come to realize that it will take multiple firings in order for the bolt not to close due to the shoulder/brass growth. I tired to bump the shoulder back anyhow for giggles and learning experience. Using RCBS, it seems that the die's are cut too deep thus can't shoulder bump. Has anyone experience this with RCBS dies? I reload now for .223 (AR) but I've gotten in to the precision game and my goal is to get the cases uniformed as best as I can. So that would mean equal lengths, shoulders bumped all the same. So should I full length all my fire formed brass or just neck size? I feel as if I FL then the point of it being fire form to the chamber is pointless? Could I get a little help on how you guys load up your precision ammo? With this Factory ammo and me doing my parts I've gotten .41" 5shoot groups.

Seriously no bin? Dang on lol I have some that might work but they aren't blue. I would think the strong mount might make it too tall to be comfortable.

Hey guys, My lock n load broke after a week of owning it. I got new parts and it is still not acting right, so I said the hell with it and sending it back to cabela's. I'm going with Dillon but have a few questions 1) Is the roller/place handle worth it? 2) Do I need the strong mount? My work bench is 33 1/4 high my stool is Kobalt stool from lowes, I can't find the specs on how tall it is. I'm 6'2 also. 3) Does the Dillon come with bullet tray for the completed bullets? I only load for 40/45 right now and I have dies from hornady. This is what I was going to get so far XL650 Caliber conversion for 40 (77.95) and tool head and power die (39.99) Any thoughts or advice would greatly be appreciated! Thanks Dustin

Thanks for the heads up guys. I fired 20 rounds that I reloaded and honestly they felt as if they were factory ammo, while this is not bad I was looking to decrease recoil as to not tire me out so bad when shooting. Plus I save money on powder. The booked called for 6 grains of Power Pistol, minimum. Can I go below this? Also my crimp measured .421-.22 while factory was .42 I kept turning in the crimp die until I got to .4205/.42 correct?

I'm new to reloading and been setting up my reloader last night for the first time. And some unexpected question arose. I'm loading .40sw Since I'm reloading 40 and 45 and the case lengths are different by .001-2 roughly they will get expanded different amounts because of their length. My question is do you just expand one case, say short case, and if it hold the bullet enough when turned upside down (the bullet doesn't fall out) you are fine? Heres my thinking behind that. If I use a shorter case to setup my expander and I happen to get one of then longer cases it will expand it out more so than a short. In my eyes causing more belling than it needs and alos wearing out the brass faster. Am I just being too damn anal or is this logical? Next thing, My lynman book does not have 180 grain flat nose bullets. But it does have 180 JHP. Is this ok to use for my recipe just start out with the "starting grain measure"? Lastly OAL. The lyman book for 180 grain JHP said OAL of 1.115, just out of being curious I measured a factory Winchester round and it measured 1.120-1.121. I took my barrel out of the gun and saw the 1.115 had the case neck below the barrel (plunk test) so I adjusted the OAL until the case next was flush with the barrel. This is what I mean by the case neck being flush with the barrel. In this picture (NOT MINE) the case neck is not fully flush with the barrel Lastly crimping. I have a LEE FCD and I noticed on a few rounds that the sizing ring sized it, which made me worry that I put to much bell on the brass. Just a few did this. I'm kinda of having trouble seeing the crimp (eyes are kinda of bad to see small things) so what I did was slowly turn the crimp knob down until the round would go in to the barrel and make the Plunk sound. Is this right? My concern is dealing with different case lengths which until now I didn't realize or think about. What do you guys do other than trim them? Also to add when I made adjustment say for the expanding station, I would set it to the min needed and run 50 brass to it and if one didn't hold the bullet enough (shorter case vs the others) I would adjust for the shorter case until it held the bullet better which would be 1/10 of a turn, very very slight. This would cuase more belling on the brass which has me concern being a new re-loader. Here are some videos as promised. Thoughts please and as always thank you!As a new member I can't upload the videos using links. Any help would be awesome.