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About cowboy85306

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    paul o'brian

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  1. If you can stand another compliment on that fine Garand, I say Great job! The stock and handguard work so well executed, the color match in your photos is superior. Clearly you spent the time the job required. Admirable!
  2. I own and have owned a handful of Springfield Armory 1911a1s, and have two DW 9mm 1911a1s. ( a PM9, and the commander-sized Guardian ) Just my opinion, get the PM7. I've never been more satisfied with a 1911 than I have with either of the DWs, or my Colt Special Combat Gov't in .45ACP
  3. Agree with Joe4d- found that 4.5 WST and 200 gr ( LSWC ) is soft shooting, but would let the slide lock back after the last round in my late 1980's built Springfield 1911A1 ( limited gun ) Had to bump it up some.
  4. Howdy- Used a lot of 231 back when I shot .45 ACP in USPSA in Florida. Was fortunate enough to get to go to the Nationals ( as an alternate in my club when someone better couldn't make it ) in 1988 in Barry, Ill. Everyone was upping their charges for the trip, as 231 had a rep for running slow in the cold. These days I like WST for .45 ACP, though got my best accuracy ever with a slight "overload" that I will not post here.
  5. Howdy- if the gun cycles ok and does not short stroke ( slide locks open after last round, etc. ) try a heavier crimp, or, as others have suggested, a modest increase in the powder charge. Sounds very nearly like what I experienced developing a .45 Schofield light load to shoot in my Vaqueros years back. Used 165, 180, and 200 grain bullets with Trail Boss. Going as light as the data listed I got unburned and partially burned powder spewing out. Increased the crimp and problem decreased, upped the charge and all was well.
  6. Along those lines- I have such a problem when loading .38 Specials using MIXED HEADSTAMPED brass. The problem there being the case lengths are all over the place, and when the crimp is just fine for the short ones, the longer cases buckle. In autoloaders, not as big a problem by using taper crimp, and by ( as noted by several others ) , crimp as a separate step after bullet seating, though the result of finding a "happy" medium is that the short ones get somewhat less crimp ( and less bullet to case neck tension ), and the longer cases, of course, get more. To avoid most of the problem, separate your brass and adjust dies accordingly.
  7. ???? Bullseye was the original powder used? Doesn't sound right at all. .45 Colt was a Black Powder round, originally. Just saying, don't mean to cause a stir.
  8. SEVERAL + years ago, I thought to shoot Production class with a G34- Looking at the rules for same, I was amused at how much more it was going to take to field a competitive Production gun. DK trigger set up, Barsto barrel, Dawson sights , forget who's recoil spring system . Gun shot well! Guess it should have, considering the outlay for this Budget catagory ( yeash, I know, less than an Open class gun, but far more than a box-stock Glock ). Then, my disability came to be, and all that stuff was a moot point anyhow. That's life, I suppose.
  9. Alas, though Titegroup is right there with Bullseye on the relative burn charts I have, and Bullseye remains one of my least favorite powders due to the fact of it being ( for me, I know SOMEONE will chime in to contest this ) downright filthy to clean up after, in either semi auto or revolver. Titegroup is a bit cleaner, and really decent behind jacketed or coated bullets. I have some experience with Accurate #2, which is a faster powder, and gave me good results in .38 special ( with little charges of powder in a case that really wants to be charged with something bulky- TrailBoss, maybe though that doesn't meter worth beans through my powder measure , and have no clue how it does in 9mm ) Just tossing this out there- RAMSHOT True Blue is likely worth a look. Seems to have wide application, from their data ( available free on line ). Just as a point of interest, YES, I too use WSF as my go-to powder for 9mm. It works my guns well, and I like it. I do not use it for anything resembling a low end magnum load. Don't fall into the trap of thinking that a big number of posts on any particular forum makes anyone an expert at anything, aside from maybe keyboarding. I don't make forums my life's work, have been into ( single stage press) hand loading and ( progressive press) reloading since the mid 1980's, have never made a firearm into scrap with a kaboom load. Not claiming to be a ballistics expert, just saying .
  10. Howdy- I have several snubbies to feed, and though with me shooting them, they do well with 158gr bullets, I've come to really appreciate JHP 125 gr. bullets in them ( still like the 158's in K and L frame 'Smiths and Ruger 38/357 GP100s ). A standard for me has been the ZERO brand 125 JHP and 4.5 gr HP38. I used Win. Small Pistol primer as I have a bunch on hand. By all means, check carefully and observe best practices in handloading, as YOU are in control of the product, including the decision to assemble whatever you use.
  11. Positively agree. One of the first criteria is the loaded round must feed in YOUR gun to run it! Ditto for the work up of specific data that will chrono where you need it in YOUR gun , with accuracy that is acceptable for power factor achieved. Take notes regarding results and go from there. I have never hit an ideal load by best guess without work up.
  12. It could be a heavy hammer spring, though in a CMC trigger I would doubt that. It could be the buffer ( too heavy; is it an H,or H2 or H3 buffer?) It could be a heavy Buffer ( Recoil) Spring. Absolutely agree with plan to put standard trigger group in the rifle, and try again. If it does the same, your now trashed CMC trigger was not the cause. If buffer and Buffer spring are standard stuff, ( sort of easy to check the buffer, even if it is heavy but not MARKED as such. Mistakes happen ). A gun that is under-gassed will short stroke.( I not an expert, have had several over-gassed carbines that performed better with a H or H@ buffer installed.) As your upper was tried on a different lower, that seems to be ruled out.
  13. While this is so, it does not mean that Bullseye is the BEST powder for .38 special, It is economical, due to the low charge weights for loads using it, BUT- for me, it burns dirty, and, being a flake powder, does not meter nearly as will as, say, Titegroup, which is right there with Bullseye on relative burn rate charts. Trail Boss powder is good at what it does, but, again, does not meter well. I actually got better consistency using it by strapping a vibrator ( looks like a cartoonish , large beetle, used for settling cranky infants ) to my powder measure. Now someone will observe that this may cause static build up and be an ignition hazard.
  14. Precision Delta! 9mm 124gr JHP. They feed well and can't beat the $89/ thousand if you buy 2 thousand or more.
  15. Howdy. I have been using the tweaks found here and elsewhere, but for the problem of the Allen bolt that fastens the shell plate with enough downforce to allow the two ball detents to operate with certainty, ( and not a bit too much force, which prevents this ), I came up with the following fix I've been using successfully on my press for a year now. I removed the Allen bolt , and took it to my local hardware store, which has a comprehensive selection of fasteners ( more than most places ). I found they stocked threaded studs of various lengths and threads, with one end that accepts a hex ( Allen) wrench. I selected one I felt would be longer than needed, as I planned to cut off any extra ( which I had to, but I digress ) I then found a Nylock nut with the same thread. I would reuse the flat washer from the original bolt set up. In doing the mock up fitting, I found you do not want to bottom out the stud in the threaded hole the bolt had been used in- the press will not operate if you do. Just Sayin'. Long story short- used some blue lock tite on the threads (DO NOT USE TOO MUCH! ) letting it partially set up prior to screwing the stud into that center bolt hole, leaving enough exposed thread so there is enough exposed when the shell plate and washer are in place to use the Nylock Nut to tighten down and secure the shell plate. The desirable part is that the Nylock setup is NOT dependent on torque to stay put- you can now adjust to use as much or as little pressure against the shellplate as your press likes. To keep from disturbing the stud when removing the Nylock Nut to change shellplates, hold it with an Allen wrench and turn the nut ( a lot like setting adjustable rocker arms on rocker arm studs ). For the priming system, keep it fastidiously clean. Kind of a pain, but it works better. IF you have a problem with it picking up primers, you may need to adjust that rod the roller runs on. The plastic bracket that fixes it to the press at it's top has some adjustment possible. If you need a bit more ( as did I ), VERY modest bend can be applied, ( i mean less than you can visualize ) but, remember, THAT is ENTIRELY up to YOU. Just passing along what works at my house on my press!
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