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Glock26Toter

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Everything posted by Glock26Toter

  1. I've had that same model Thumblers Tumbler for about 30 years. My brother would do all the reloading when I was a kid and let it run for days at a time to get brass "really shiny." I remember that tumbler running almost non stop during the summer.. and 1/2 that time during the winter. I adopted the tumbler maybe 15 years ago and have put 1000's of rounds through it (I only tumble for a little while though) and the ONLY Part I've ever replaced was the rubber drive belt. It may not look like much but now a days, to get something that's actually made of metal is a good thing in my opinion. I say, stick with it and it will give you years, and years, and years of service. BTW, anybody that's worked with motors sees studs like this all over the place. They are for various applications that the motor is designed for... a tumbler isn't the only thing you'll see that motor in. I would worry about them as a sign for anything except that the motor is a common one.
  2. I shot for a while with my Glock 26, subcompact 9mm. I wanted to REALLY get to know my carry gun. I know it well now. Then I moved onto Limited 10 because I had a 1911. I would agree its probably a good idea to get fundamentals down. Not the same for everyone, but I think waiting until I was in B class was a fit for me. I made B with that 1911. Once I went open I shot into A and I'm still improving at a good rate. I didn't think very hard about it. I was sold with a single dry-fire from the back of the gun smiths truck! Until then, I hadn't even touched an open gun.
  3. Here you go. A pic of the gun disassembled so you can check it out. This has approximately 5000 rounds since the coating. To me, it looks like it's wearing just great.
  4. That's Bearcoat. Put on by Rocky Mountain Arms in Longmont. Checkout the website at bearcoat.com. I can tell you one thing... they coat EVERYTHING. All the screws, threads, firing pin... everything. It's cool stuff for all those parts, but anything plastic it WILL NOT stick to. I did start out 100% coated, but in a couple of weeks I realized the plastic parts were not curing. I removed all the paint from all the plastic parts with rubbing alcohol and have been very happy ever since. It would have been nice if they had said that and didn't paint the plastic parts to start with. Overall a good experience and I like the unique finish on an open gun.
  5. Sounds cool, but honestly I would not touch one with a 10 foot pole. Think about the person (in my case my daughter) that could wind up with a "no serial number" gun after you meet your maker, and doesn't know what to do with it. Or worse, is clueless and tries selling it to a LEO of some type. I think there is plenty of custom work to do on top of a nice and legal receiver that people down the road won't be put in a pickle over. Just sayin'
  6. Same here man. I saw some "out of the blue" ejection issues for a couple matches that looked just like that. New springs in my AFLAC and they went away. Along with my insurance problems. HA!
  7. I've seen some match chrono results that led me to think temp/altitude mattered... but then I read an article in Front Sight by that Chrono dude that we see at like, every match in the world. No I really can't remember his name. At any rate, he said in the article that the biggest problem is actually the light and to get a consistent reading you MUST box your chrono and use a consistent light source. Most of the other issues go away and you'll get consistent readings if you box your chrono, according to him. I'm going to build a box for my chrono and see if I get closer to what I see at the chrono stages this summer.
  8. I would love to hear if they get back to you on that. I too would think this has to be contamination of some kind. I've been using Winchester for many, many years and don't recall any dead ones. The only time I saw dead or had any trouble was a short stint in Magtech land. And upon inquiring to THAT company about my troubles I was hastily blown off and went right back to Winchester just as quickly!
  9. This looks to me like what I would call "overcrimp." Basically if you set your crimp using a short case when you get a long one in there it's too much pressure since the FMJ won't give to allow the overcrimp that would occur on a lead round. Check about 10 of your cases and you might find that some are a bit longer and maybe these are the ones. I use very little crimp and check a bunch before setting and make sure to use a short one to set it.
  10. Oh Man. Those squiggly slide cuts are freakin coooool. Nice! I just finished cleaning mine. It's about 9 months old now, but I'll post a pic in a few.
  11. I heard about this 3 days after I became a life member. I tried to cancel my current EPL membership for $1000.00 and was told I could not. No refunds on memberships. I didn't raise a stink, but I do remember pretty clearly when I signed up that the contract says no refunds. I did make myself feel a bit better by getting 3 additional people to take advantage of the $300.00 deal. Look at the bright side... when I pay it off I get a SWEET $700.00 jacket and you penny pinchers don't since the special deal does not include it.
  12. I've almost exclusively shot Montana Gold and Winchester primers in my open gun. It's never seen anything different and runs like a raped ape. There was that Magtech Primer diversion that lead to several dead primers and some weird flattening... but now that I'm back on Winchester I'll never leave.
  13. Yeah. No difference between big matches and small matches. Same fun... oh, there is one difference. You might come home with something kickass from the prize table at a big match.
  14. Dude. Lasercast! Seriously. I shot lasercast bullets for years in my .45ACP and NEVER had ANY lead build up whatsoever. Some people still say they act like lead but I would have to say that they must be shooting some hot loads for that. I shot lasercast for many years in many calibers and NEVER saw any issues except saved money. That said, I don't shoot Lasercast in my open 9mm major gun, but for .45ACP competition loads... load them and save money and shoot them all day long. They are a silver-lead alloy so they are harder than lead. Not to mention if the need ever arises you are all set for werewolves!
  15. Yes. absolutely. The most important thing to do as soon as you stop a shooter is to get the range clear and THEN move onto any additional commands or information.
  16. Thanks. I too, want to get into A very soon. I just remembered a GM gave me that par time hint a while back and I did it like, once. Then forgot about it. I've also not been dry firing like I used to to get to B in the first place. I always felt better on that first stage... dry firing the night before helps to hold off those "1st stage jitters" for sure. congrats.
  17. YES. Only shoot at the A. And I mean the letter A, on the target. Not the zone. Making your point of aim a single spot on the target will help quite a bit. On the occasion that I practice, I just make a little black square on a peice of cardboard... no shapes, no zones. I just make about a 1" square and shoot at it. Also, during walkthrough don't look at each target. Look at each point of aim. It's the same idea. You are envisioning a little spot where you'll aim and not just looking at the whole target.
  18. Yeah, MC1. I do that too... not with my eyes closed, but I'll stand way back so I don't run into anyone and I"m back there doing my walkthrough. Sometimes I get funny looks or run into someone because their standing there watching and I"m moving around doing my walkthrough. You gotta "cement it in." All my regular buddies get it by now
  19. So.. here's something I've noticed that may help some people. I started concentrating on this fairly recently and it seems to have helped. When I'm running through a stage I no longer just "point" at each target and do a half-assed "reload" motion. I concentrate on holding my hands in my exact grip position, and when I make a motion to count each round my trigger finger is the ONLY part of my hand that moves. The reload spot get's a full reload action while concentrating on looking "through" my fist that would have my gun in it. I started looking at some of the better shooters and they look very "robotic" and you can tell that they are taking the walkthrough seriously with ALL MOVEMENTS, not just spotting targets. Less experienced shooters I see holding their hands different than they would hold their gun, and the most common thing I see is to flex their entire fist when firing their air rounds during walkthrough. Seriously, I think this has helped me. Especially in trying to remove the habit of dropping my arm to reload. You know the old saying "you fight like you train?"
  20. So, are you talking about something like Bearcoat? I got my open gun Bearcoated and to my knowledge, I'm the only person that has done it. (I"m sure that's not true... just of the people I shoot with) At any rate, it's holding up VERY well and yes EVERYTHING is coated. The really tight spost have worn off with about 2000 - 3000 rounds through it, but it's been doing great otherwise. The reason I replied it is because, I saw nothing happen any differently than when I had no coating.
  21. Troubleshooting anything must be done ONE step at a time. I noticed that you said "...I am going to go longer and am switching to 3N38" The AND is where you run into problems. I'm a troubleshooter for a living, and an open shooter. Please do yourself a favor and only change one thing at a time. Give it at least 5 malfunctions while reviewing the situation, and then change ONE more thing. You might be dealing with 2 problems and each could be a different fix. You might be dealing with only 1 problem, but if you chang more than one thing at a time you could be creating other problems at the same time. It requires patience... maybe a notebook, and ONE gunsmith, but eventually you'll iron it out and then be able to enjoy your new investment. I've been shooting open for 8 months now, and I did have some growing pains, but carefully changing 1 thing at a time and in a month or two my gun was purring like a kitten.
  22. thanks guys. Yeah, I'm glad SLM pointed out the 1/8 thing. A piece of old drillbit and I'm in business. I discovered that they have a nylon insert and that it was missing... hence the lost pin. I cut a piece of nylon screw and stuck it in there and now it's like brand new! I had replaced it with a Dawson pad that I like much better but no point in throwing something away that I could fix in 10 minutes.
  23. Hi, I lost my Bolen 3mm base pad pin. Not sure how, but one day, it was gone. I'm unable to find contact information for Bolen directly to try to buy one (and a few spares) and shooting supply places I've tried to contact say they don't carry them. Anyone have contact info for Bolen? thanks.
  24. Thanks guys. yeah, Magtech said the same thing about the C and D, but I'm questioning a mistake made at the manufacturer since we are, in fact, seeing a performance difference based on the letter. And one reason I posted here is to get some opinions as to whether I should continue running these primers until I can switch to Winchester. I feel safe, but by the time I use up 5000 will my gun hate me? I mean, it's been soooooo good to me so far!
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