Mike_P

Same experience as Solvability here except I was using 185gr Precision Bullets moly coated rounds from a 4" barrel. 3.8 was decent and had 0 failures of any kind. I also like to use the 185gr's over ~3.5-3.6gr of Titegroup. It's very consistant and a little easier to clean with the coating.

I've had almost the same experience as Doc Hunter using my glocks with 13lb springs, Lead or Moly coated Lead and W231. Since I'm running glocks I typically load to 1.135 with round nose, shorter with flat points, and ~3.4-3.6gr does the trick. I also apply slide glide and it's insanely easy to clean since any residue lands in the stuff and just wipes right off.

I've come across some as well. (Maybe a handful in my time reloading) Had no problem shooting them as major through a few glocks despite not knowing their history.

As has been stated a bunch already. 147 or 124 are the way to go. I bulk load both and absolutely love the feel of the 147's. With that said though, the 124's are VERY similar in feel and typically are cheaper. Or offer larger amounts at case prices. I've tried both in Montana Gold and Berry's and had great results with both manufacturers. You can't go wrong with either.

Of those 2, I'm a huge Montana Gold fan in both 9mm and 40S&W. Great quality and fast shipping. Always order by the case for best pricing. If you're loading your own SD rounds, you can also look into something like Speer gold dot bullets. I ordered a couple thousand of those and have had great results. Though they are quite pricey and I typically just practice with them as I prefer carrying factory SD rounds in my conceal carry guns.

Wow that sucks. Haven't dealt with them but certainly haven't seen that before.

I clean up after ~3 magazines fired. I like to make sure I pick up as much as possible or even all of it. Sometimes I'll ask for other peoples or just wait till they leave and grab it. When I ask I sometimes get those crazy looks until I say I reload, and then they either ask questions about how to do it or just say go for it. On occasion I'll grab brass from the top of the garbage if someone dumps it. I won't dive for it but if there's a bunch on time, it'll be mine.

I do it about every 8-12 cleanings as well. I use a mix of Lyman green treated corn and just normal corn. (About a 75%/25% mix). I typically run my tumbler for 5-6 hours at a time and my results are great. I'll normally add more polish every ~3-4 cleanings too, and run it for 30 minutes before putting any brass in.

I had a Glockworx ZEV for a while as well. I really liked that there were many different weight configurations and finishes to choose from. The one I received was a great quality piece. If I ever put one back on any of my glocks that's the first one I'll consider. (Though with all these posts about the SJC, I would definitely check it out as well.)

I'll second the $25 per 1k. I consider that to be reasonable. I frequently pick up 9mm for 20-25 shipped as well. A lot of people are increasing prices right now and I don't see why. 9 and 40 are so easily obtainable that it's almost ridiculous to pay any more. Even if you don't see any brass on the forums now, give it a day or two and it pops up again. It's not worth being in a rush and having to pay 35+ per k.

I run an Edge on my Gen 3 Glock 17. The thing is flawless with the low powered striker spring. I shoot my reloads with CCI or Winchester small pistol primers. The trigger is pretty amazing and a worth while investment for me. But others it depends on their intentions. Jeff was great to deal with and we above and beyond to get me the trigger quickly.

Nic, yes I am aware of the innate variations. Trust me, I've taken all precautions. I make sure all stations are full, I've thrown at a minimum 10 charges that go straight to the hopper prior to measuring any. I know where my powder should be when it comes to eyeing it as this isn't a new load to me. When testing charges, I ensure my cases are newly sized and not expanded so there are no major length variations, I've even gone as far as using matching headstamps to make sure they are as close as possible to the same pieces of brass. I've done the 4 charge and divide and the 10 charges and divide game. I've tried all the little tips and tricks, as well as fixes that have worked on my other 2 presses to resolve the issue if they were ever off slightly. This isn't a new load I've been working up nor am I just extremely new to using the machine. I've run enough rounds through it to know that there's something up, and my first instinct is that it's related to the charge bar, hence my question regarding the X-small bar. Including the fact that I've run this exact load through it without an issue and only now am I experiencing it. I can set the charge at 4.2gr and it's nearly perfect, but the second I reduce it again it pops back up. It only occurs when I reduce my load to the lighter side of the small charge bar.

Thanks for the responses. Smooth, I've emptied it a few times now and used new powder, there's definitely nothing in there. Nic, I've already put a few thousands rounds through the press. The powder bars and unit have already been polished per my previous responses. Everything is set up properly. In regards to the scale, I've got 3. A high performance digital scale from Brians store, a Dillon Terminator beam scale, and an older Hornady I rarely use. Needless to say, having so many scales that I consider to be of high quality I certainly hope they aren't the issue. I assure you, it's all broken in and I am aware of the .1 grain variations, as that's what I see at slightly increased charges. It's only at lower levels that I'm seeing the variation, which with W231 should NOT be there. I bumped it back up to 4.2gr which is insanely consistant and started back up with my 124gr Montana Gold RN CMJ and 125gr Precision Bullets coated FP's. Then put it back down to 3.7 and I was able to get it consistant enough to run another 1k of my 147gr and things were fine for a while, went back to the 4.2gr and still great, and yet again upon reducing the charge I'm seeing the variation. So I'm at a loss as it's inconsistant when the variations occur.

I use one as well but only for my RN bullets. I still find myself using my dillon for the HP/FP's. Just wish the dillon was constructed a littttle bit differently as I sometimes get a small indentation in my Precision bullets. They're about the softest I shoot though so it's not too big a deal. Anyways back to the Redding. With that in and my standard Montana Gold or Berry's RN's, I'm seeing +/- .001 variations with separated brass. With mixed headstamps it's typically +/- maybe .002 until I hit a winchester and then it varies about .004ish. Needless to say, it's very consistant and if you do switch around a lot, you can just remember each setting for each type of bullet and it's quick and painless.

It seems like a lot, but it really only takes a few minutes and is quite simple. Just be careful not to lose the springs and bearings depending on how far you disassemble it.

I know this seems like an odd idea, but you could also put an extended barrel on to make up the difference. OR purchase a 17 and get the grip cut down to 19 length. Gives you the feel of a 19, but barrel of the 17. Personally, I don't feel a huge difference between the 19 and 17 when shooting them, so I'd just leave it all stock lengths.

My opinion is that it totally depends on what you'll be using it for. I polish all of my glocks components regardless of their use. This is simply to smooth out the pull. On carry guns I leave them stock, I like the hard pull, feel it's not TOO hard, and I'm comfortable with it. Now on the other hand, for my comp 17, I've got an Edge trigger in it and it's set light and short. But feels great for what it's made for. I'd never carry it though. I also have a few glocks that are modded in different ways. Either lighter springs + connector, just springs, just connector. And I have no problem using these as just range fun. They do their jobs perfectly. And knock on wood, I haven't had a light strike with any glock yet, regardless of mods. That's one thing I love about glocks. I can modify them in many ways and they're still reliable. It just depends what you'll be using them for and what you wanna spend.

Ironic that you posted this, Brian. I'm not too new per say, but I'm a dry tumbler using Lyman treated green media + some polish. Lately my tumbler has been giving me some grief and I've been debating switching to wet tumbling. As I can see the biggest thing holding me back right now is that I'll have to decap all my brass before wet tumbling, quite a bummer since I'm bulk loading and decapping on my 650. So it's a hand off, I can either tumble my brass dry for 3-6 hours and get great external results and mediocre internal with uncleaned primer pockets, then just load it all up with no more work. OR I can take the time to decap everything, wet tumble few a few hours, then let it dry for hours, and THEN use it... Gives me super clean brass but... seems very slow.

I've gone ahead and polished most of it except the inside of the hopper, as it was in there quite tight and I didn't want to break it. My powder is like 85-90% full, tried a few more, again with each station full and it's still giving my similar problems. It's weird, I can get a consistant 3.5gr and a super consistant 4.0+, but at 3.7 this small bar is giving me major issues!

I've shot A LOT of Berry's and never had a problem. But with that said I've also loaded cases of MG 124gr CMJ, and have never had a problem with them either. They are both awesome bullets and cost wise are close. On top of both of those I've also loaded precision bullets and never had a problem, lol. All in all, I think it come down to personal experience. They all perform amazingly well but nobody can deny the fact that sometimes a bad batch is made, and the rumors start to fly. Break them down into price and then your differences really start to show. But my opinion on the matter is, if it shoots better in my gun and is a little more expensive, I'll pay that cost to get the best performance possible. I don't want to load cheap just because it's cheap. I want to load for quality and because reloading is a hobbie I love and enjoy.

I apologize for not replying sooner, I didn't realize this was for me at first. Looks for range is just one of the forums standard titles, btw. The Lyman is good, but be careful with that. There's varying information in each manual, so when you decide what you want to shoot powder and projectile wise, you may wanna check around with a couple different sources. Or as you can see, a lot of people verify loads with others experiences here on the forums. I shoot a lot of RN for practice, but depending on the gun, also shoot plenty of HP. (Compensators perform better with HP.) HP's can offer great accuracy too without a comp. I rarely should FP, but again many do. It's something to research and try each for yourself to see what YOU like. So what did you do for NSWC? With a name like Trident one would assume SEAL? If that's the case, I'd imagine you've got plenty of time behind the sights which will aid you in determining a bullet weight that would work best for you. I would say the EASIEST way to start is as others have said, a basic 124gr or 147gr RN, probably plated, over a simple powder like W231. Makes starting VERY simple.

I made a post of my own since I was having inconsistancies myself. I've verified all you've said and the issue still remained. I'm about to start polishing the pieces as others suggested. The only thing I noticed (Which is noted in my thread) is that the inconsistancies only occur with specific drops. ie: the load is 3.7gr, then I see 3.4-3.9. If the load is 4.2 then it's 4.1-4.3. (Using those numbers as an example only) In the second case, obviously it's acceptable, though in MY specific case, it was almost almost 4.2. The first load is a major issue as that's a large variation.

Until you try actually shooting different types of rounds through the guns then you'll never know if they will work or not. No barrel is the same and 2 identical guns could give you different results with identical bullets. I shoot primarily 147gr in minor over W231 for practice/plinking, however I stockpile 124gr and very few 115. This way I have different options for different guns, as well as for buddies to use if they come with me. Sometimes their guns will perform better with a different weight or style than mine will, and I'm prepared either way. It costs me more to have a bunch of different types, but in the end everyone is happy. Especially me. I won't be happy shooting something that doesn't feel good.

I'd purchase a few reloading manuals first if you haven't already. We can suggest a bunch of different things but if you haven't done your homework then none of it will matter. Either that or you'll just hurt yourself. That said, are you looking to load 9mm in minor or major? Have any preference on bullet weight? FP/HP/RN?

Evening all, I'm currently having an issue that I don't believe should be an issue and I'm hoping someone can shed a little light on the subject for me. I'm running a 650 and using the small pistol charge bar with Winchester 231 as my powder. When loading 9mm I typically have it set for ~4.2gr or higher for my 124gr rounds, it's extremely consistant in the charge it throws. Either dead on or +/- .1gr which is acceptable to me. When I reduce my charge swapping over to 147gr projectiles, I try to reduce my charge to approximately 3.7gr. Now, I've tried going lower to 3.0gr and increasing it to where I need, and going down slowly from 4.2. Both ways I'm getting an inconsistant charge at anything under 4.0gr. I'm aware this is getting pretty low to the point where I may be better off switching to an Extra small charge bar (If I'm reading it right that the extra small is 1-15gr). Does anyone have any experience in the Extra small being more consistant in this case? Or am I just living a pipe dream hoping this will solve the issue? In both cases of adjustment, I've run 5-10 charges prior to weighing, in order for the powder to set. I've tried searching the issue, and gone ahead with the suggested method of weighing 4 charges and taking the average, as well as measuring each charge for approximately 5-10 drops. When I set it to 3.7gr, I'm seeing 3.4 to 3.9. I believe that's far too large of a variation for me to load, especially considering how well 231 meters. I've verified static is not an issue via dryer sheets (Nothing was sticking in the first place) and I'm about to start polishing the drop as instructed in the tips and tricks thread, but if I can bypass doing all this and just solve my issue with a new charge bar, I'd be highly tempted to just place the order. Any insight on the issue would be greatly appreciated!