jonb.
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Posts posted by jonb.
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140mm my old tubes used the 13 coil without an issue.
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So you bought and installed the Grams followers and springs?
Followers were from my old Mags which functioned 100%. Springs are new. I can't manufacture new mags here in CA I can only rebuild and repair. Old tubes needed to go the feed lips were no longer amazing.
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I have 4 sti mag tubes.
13 coil grams with grams comp followers.
1 Dawson SNL pad
3 Dawson +1 pads
Here's the breakdown.
MAG 1 (bought used) has SNL base pad holds 20 non-reloadable I use this for my first mag. It is hard to seat and will drop free when mag is down to 17 rounds, when the mag is at capacity it will not drop free.
(all the other mags have +1 pads)
MAG 2 (bought NEW) magazines holds 20 reloadable drops free at capacity.
MAG 3 (used) holds 17 reloadable 18 not reloadable does not drop free with 18 rounds but will drop free at 17.
MAG 4 (USED) Behaves the same as mag 3.
So I think the tubes I bought used are out of spec. Any suggestions on how to tame them and get them into spec? I attempted to tune the mags but the one I tuned holds more but is very hard to seat and will not drop free until I hit 17 rounds in the mag.
From what I have read is that the Dawson tuning kit will not help me in squaring these mags up which is what I think is the issue.
LAST THING the mags function perfectly in regards to feeding the gun I tuned all my lips so my lips are awesome!
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OOPS forgot I add about a cup of white rice mixed in with this since I'm using that zilla stuff from the pet store.
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Walnut and turtle wax... no issues.
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Here you go everything you need to know. Here
I just did four of my mags using the link in that quote all my mags are at capacity, drop free, with 0 nose dives or hang ups.
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No steel challenge on the days I can shoot.
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I want my little one to start shooting but am unsure what gun and what class to have her start she's versed with her 10/22 and her Ruger so I just need a pistol she can rack with a light recoil. Any suggestions?
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HOOAH!! I'm sending gear directly this year as I have a handful of battle buddies in theater but AWESOME TO SEE PEOPLE WANTING TO HELP OUT! It makes me happy to be a part of this forum to see stuff like this! Just keeping this BUMPED!
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What's the discount through Enos? I'm registered for the Military discount they give.
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I have settled on either a DAA racer or racemaster. 3 options have presented themselves to me.
1st I can get a racemaster brand new from shooters connection just the way I want it RED.
2nd I can get a racemaster used from a buddy Its pretty well used but still functions fine not the color I want for 150
3rd I can get a racer new in red.
Whats my best option?
What are your thoughts in regards to racer vs racemaster?
Yes I have used the search only about 2 came up in regards to this similar topic thanks.
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Best to deal with Mark Directly
email him here motto1930@att.net
He's a great guy and responds quickly to email!
I got my belt made back in March he did one for me in the 24 shell variety!
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PROBLEM SOLVED!
Midway was out of bulge busters so I ran with a GRX Die and I bought a cheapo Lee single stage press along with this I ditched the Udie and went with the normal dillon sizing die.
FIRST Chocobolo had it right on the money this sucker takes care of bulged brass quick and easy. Out of 300 loaded I had 1 round that would not chamber check even after running it through the grx after so into the pulled pile it went. I also salvaged 97 rounds from my pull pile by running them through the GRX as well.
Pricing it out the lee setup would have been about $27 dollars cheaper but after seeing how much play, and how paint was already chipping off the single stage from Lee, and the issues I had with the Udie from Lee I think the extra $27 dollars is worth it.
Thanks to all that chimed in on this.
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I have a WFT for .223 and a Possum Hollow trimmer for .308. Neither one deburrs the cases but they both do a good job of trimming once you get the length set.
Do you prefer one over the other?
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Don't mean to thread steal but can any of the poster's on this thread explain their reasoning for going with the GRX versus the bulge buster which is more affordable? I have a thread about this that I posted but it turned into a "YOU SET UP YOUR U DIE WRONG" session and I really didn't get enough opinions on whether they worked out to be the same or if one was better over the other.
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How about a hollow possum's tool? Does that tool chamfer and deburr or does that work similar too the WFT?
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Jonb,
That's a heck of a post, so I'll try to touch on several things.
-if you are talking about putting loaded rounds through the bulge buster or grx, they will do the same thing that the FCD does, they will likely swage your bullets.
-I HIGHLY recommend using the BB or GRX before loading your ammo.
-it sounds like you are worried about working the brass at the web... As do I. I will tell you what I do and you can make your own decision.
1. Clean my brass
2. Put it through the Bulge Buster
3. Size it using a standard Lee sizing die, but with the sizing die adjusted so it only sizes the 2/3 of the case (leaving the web sized the least amount possible.
4.finish loading like normal (powder through expander, bullet seating, crimping with a Lee taper crimp, non FCD)
This has a couple of advantages...
-all rounds will chamber
-the safety end of the case gets worked the least
-no need for an undersize die over working brass and requiring extra case belling.
-good neck tension with minimal "coke bottle" effect
YMMV
The only loaded rounds I want to do will be those that have failed case gauge. I will be incorporating the push thru in prep.
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Need a shopping list.
I want to load 223 on my dillon 550. I have a shell plate, pins, and a tool head.
So what do you all suggest in case prep, dies, bullets, primers, and powders.
I am loading mainly for 3 gun competition, and plinking.
Thanks in advance.
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Okay here's the deal. I will definitely be loading moly bullets they are cheap and the saving adds up in the long run I also prefer how my gun runs them over jacketed ammo (soft shooting). So with that said I will not be using the Lee FCD on my crimp station only as a push through will this die affect the shape of my moly rounds undersizing them? According to cocobolo they will. That said as much as I want this to be an economical venture I do not want to buy twice so if the GRX is the only viable option for what I'm loading so be it.
Now as far as my U die goes I am now under the suspicion that my cases are losing their shape in the belling or crimp station due to the fact they are undersizing the case so much I am actually crushing my bullets a little at the weakest point WHERE THEY HAVE BEEN GLOCKED. So I am going to make a final effort today to load some .40 using the Udie while taking my seat die back a little, and easing on the crimp just a hair more; the U die is already making contact with my shell plate and will not go any lower. If this does not work (I am of the opinion that it will not) I am purchasing the GRX or the B BUSTER. So please I just need final guidance on which push through will work the best with moly rounds in mind if you take away the price difference. THANK YOU EVERYBODY FOR YOUR RESPONSE.
Oh on a last note in regards to using the push through with loaded rounds I've watched it done on a bunch of you tube video's, read it in other peoples posts, and in other forums so I trust that unless I slam the press down while ensuring there is something in the hollowed out area of the seat to strike the primer I will survive as well; if not another one falls to Darwin's theory (yes I know Herbert Spencer coined the phrase and Darwin just made it better known)
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I am shooting out of a kkm barreled glock 24 but I'm using the die for my range brass. If I were using a factory barrel I could probably chamber the bulged brass but then I run the risk of shooting weak brass out of an unsupported chamber. Also my barrel does seem tighter than all of my buddies barrels in their STI's Infinity's, and CZ even after having it loosened up a bit. So there u go.
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Not on Lee's site either. So I say NO LOADED AMMO THROUGH IT.
From Lee's site.
Assure your handgun brass is bulge free with the Bulge Buster Kit and Factory Crimp Die. This push through die adapter will quickly remove the annoying bulge rings that shell holder constrained dies simply can't reach. Kit includes extension sleeve, push through punch, and catch container. It's fast--you can reprocess your cases as quickly as you can handle them.
With the Lee Factory Crimp Die, the Bulge Buster will repair all these rimless cases:
380 ACP
40 S&W
45 ACP
45 Win Mag
10 mm
41 AE
45 GAP
NOTE: 9mm cases are not able to be used in the Bulge Buster because it has a slightly tapered case and the rim is not completely flush with the case.
Okay I looked for it Lee says nothing about loaded ammo but on midway one of the product reviews does talk about it.so that's where I read it.
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U-dies Suck Dead Bears, only about 20% effective and they make the effort to reload harder 100% of the time. The only good thing about them is the decapping pin is tough but expensive to replace.
I used the GRX after the U-Dies failed miserably to solve the Fat Brass syndrome. You may want to consider the Lee cheapie single stage it came free with the Lee Reloading Book I bought, I used it with the GRX and I also use it for .223 case prep. I think it sells for about $25.00.
I use a CasePro now, but they are hard to come buy and way expensive.
I shouldn't tell you this but once I got lazy I only ran the drop check failures thru the GRX after I loaded them. Extreme caution here. And I do the same in the case pro, it rolls the loaded ones just as easy as non loaded. As a precaution I send them back thru the crimp station.
The bulge buster under the description on midway states that you can run loaded ammo through it.
Where does it say that?
The GRX is only for 40S&W, the Bulge Buster will not do 9mm, which is more likely the caliber most wanted.
Like CocoBolo, I tried the U Die and found that it was a PITA, slowed the process to a crawl. I broke 6 decap pins but were all replace by Lee. I have never tried the GRX but ended up buying a CasePro100 along with the extra die plates I needed.
Maybe I read it on the Lee site either way I know you can. I'm gonna be using it for .40 but I am wondering why the buster won't work in 9 mm wouldn't I just need to buy a 9 mm factory crimp from lee and hook that up to the buster?
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U-dies Suck Dead Bears, only about 20% effective and they make the effort to reload harder 100% of the time. The only good thing about them is the decapping pin is tough but expensive to replace.
I used the GRX after the U-Dies failed miserably to solve the Fat Brass syndrome. You may want to consider the Lee cheapie single stage it came free with the Lee Reloading Book I bought, I used it with the GRX and I also use it for .223 case prep. I think it sells for about $25.00.
I use a CasePro now, but they are hard to come buy and way expensive.
I shouldn't tell you this but once I got lazy I only ran the drop check failures thru the GRX after I loaded them. Extreme caution here. And I do the same in the case pro, it rolls the loaded ones just as easy as non loaded. As a precaution I send them back thru the crimp station.
The bulge buster under the description on midway states that you can run loaded ammo through it.
STI 2011 Mag issues
in General Gunsmithing
Posted
With the rounds in them?
Also how much of the ribs do I grind down on the inside? With my dremel I can only reach the bottom half inch or so.