iLuv2Shoot

I'm having the same prob with HDY 68gn BTHP's + Dillon Seating die. Did you actually have this issue and fix it by polishing it or is this just a suggestion? Thanks...

I know this may sound odd.. but what bullet are you using? Hornady 68s - always leave a slight ring for me, no matter what the die. The rest (Sierra, Noslers, etc), no problems +111 OK....I'm SO glad to see this...well sort of. I noticed the same problem the other day while loading HDY 68gr BTHP and 69gn SMK's. I am getting the ring indentation, as well, BUT ONLY ON THE Hdy 68's! I'm baffeled. If the Dillon seating die was the issue, why wouldn't I see a ring on the SMK's? I realize the ogive is different. But the ring indentation is located forward of the ogive (toward the tip). Anyone have any ideas of what the implications are on the external ballistics of the dented bullets? I just bought 500 of the 68g HDY's!! Also, shouldn't Dillion replace the seating die if it's deforming the bullet?? I shouldn't have to take it apart and hand sand it or do anything for that matter to make it work right. Lastly, has anyone fixed this issue successfully without replacing the die for another manufacture or making any modifications (filing, sanding, epoxy)? Anyone get Dillon to concede a defect and replace the die? Sorry for all the questions but i reload for 600y and take painstaking steps for accuracy and I'm a little pi$ed that this might be a common Dillon issue. First my Glock 'bulge'...now this. Thank for any responses, in advance. - Dave

I don't crimp mine either. I skipped crimping for my single-fire loads that were over mag length. Then the first few times I pulled them, I had to give a pretty good whack. Then I thought I'd see what happens to OAL in NON-crimped mag length loads under forces of recoil. So I loaded a 20 rnd mag full-up, fired 3 shots, measured the OAL of the next 3....they were unchanged. I re-magged those 3 back and shot them, pulled out the next 3 from the mag and measured those for OAL...unchanged. You get the idea by now. So now, I just skip crimping altogether. So far so good after about 1500 rds in a a few months. Also, I just resize my necks instead of full length. Of course, this is on my fireformed brass in my only AR upper. However, after 5 firings, I do FL resize as a 'just in case' to prevent a stuck case or FTF...just when I can least afford it. I'm not saying i recommend anyone do this, but the old "always FL resize and crimp for all autoloaders" just isn't the case. That said, I shoot my AR for sport and not for self defense purposes.... I hope. - Dave

I'm glad you mentioned the 52g BTHP SMK's. I like them for 100yds or less. I use AA2230 and want to work up a load using BLC 2. Have you tried any of these, by chance?

Sorry this happened to you. But look at it this way; a frag detonated right next to your face and your up and around taking pictures and using the Internet. God's blessed you, my brother! I sure hope you find the cause. I'd bet some firearm forensics folks would LOVE to dissect your wreckage. Maybe get some answers there? God speed...

I got the Dillon Cal Conv kit for my 550 to load .223 for my YHM AR 20" bbl 1:9 rate. I've used Viht N140 (extruded) as successfully as AA2230 which is a fine ball. Once I go through all the trouble of case prep...esp w/ primer crimped brass...the loading process on the 550 is pretty straightforward. I don't do a rush job since i load for HP mid-range matches out to 600 yds. I've found it usefull to also take the time to OAL guage my chamber with each specific pill and to seat as close to the lands as my mag will allow. I also load a batch that seats too long for the mag but I just single load manually for slow fire. It seems to me the important thing is consistancy whether I'm .020" or .050" off the lands. Using a comparator and measure off the ogive is crucial for this process esp with long and heavy BTHP. It's all a work in progress In any case, my carbide Dillon die set seems to work just fine. YMMV.

Just curious...what twist and bbl length is your 15lb svc rifle?

Just curious, what is the twist on the bbl you use the 69 SMK's on? I have a 20" 1:9 AR and I keep reading that it's too slow for the heavy's...>69g? I'd like to shoot 600yds with a handloaded 5.56 in that AR. So far, I haven't had any probs with 200yds with PPU 69g match HPBT (factory) but wonder about destabilization out around 600yds.

Just curious...how did you settle on 1.150 OAL? Was that a recipe or a workup, etc.?

I ended up starting with 4.0 of WST @ 1.125 w/ 180 CMJ MG's. It was actually a very pleasant load and accurate. It was nice not having to chase down my brass 12' away to my right, too! I loaded up a mid load just to 4.5 WST...same specs otherwise. It was definitely snappy for me. Rapid fire spreads out of my stock Glock 22 were larger. But when I just target shot, the accuracy was no better/worse than the 4.0 loads. I was shooting standing, of course. Then I tried a major load to 5.0 WST...same specs otherwise. This was about like some of the hotter factory loads I've shot but better target groups. I wish I could have chrony'd these for power. In all loads I just mentioned, I had no malfunctions whatsoever and my brass looked normal. If I had to go high major, I could likely get a 5.2, 5.3 1.130 load and not feel concerned. But I like what I've seen/felt so far. I'll likely use a balanced practice load of the same MG 180 CMJ's with 4.3 WST @ 1.125 mostly for IDPA 'fun' shoots. Then again... It's ALL FUN! BTW, I found the WST to be dirtier than what i expected. Especially since it was recommended to me as 'a clean powder' from a dealer. Thanks all for sharing... *----->X

Hi Everyone...new guy here. Topic is "A few questions about reloading .223/556...so here goes. Can I get an opinion from 1st hand experience about .223 brass? My understanding is the 'LC' brass is Lake City armory mil brass and that it is has primer pocket 'issues' as well as re-sizing issues due to the mil 'aggressive' crimps? Also, I found a ton of 'FC' brass that looked like they were annealed...similar to the PMC X-TAC 62g 5.56 factory loads I had been using. I thought annealed cases were hardened neck/shldrs and were better for max load reloading? Are these 'FC' cases not "Federal Cartridge"? Should I even try re-loading both of these cases ('LC' and/or 'FC')? FWIW, I only shoot out of a 1:9 20" bbl AR. Thanks for sharing...this is a great forum. *----->X

Steve, You are looking into the wrong end of the telescope. The target is half size, so at 10 feet it looks like it is 20 feet away. I've had reduced size targets on my website for a decade or so. http://www.parmarng.org/freeidaho On the second screen, left hand side look for Printable Targets. kr freeidaho, I really enjoyed checking out your site (above). Great stuff and some creative targets...love the drop leg under the car! Great vids too. Thanks... *------>X

Great info! I DO notice that the WST I have does 'cling' to almost everything...electrostatically. I guess the PP does something similar from what you all are telling me. It's no hassle but I haven't had to clean out a powder charging container yet. Maybe I'll try 1# of either Sillhoutte or PP next after I research some loads in .40 w/ 180g CMJ. Thanks a ton, everyone! *----->X

So I finally put my bulged brass thru my Dillon press w/ std Dillon .40 sizing die. I put all thru my stock G22 and G23 w/out a single issue. I worried about all this for nothing. But then again, I am not using a 'tight' chamber/bbl. But still there was only .002" diff around the 'bulged' area and the rim post sizing, seating. crimping. I'm going to try a few of those resized brass in an XDm next and see what happens. It's all good... *---->X

noylj, Thanks for sharing your info. I ended up pulling the .40 180g CMJ 5.0+ WST loads I had and worked up from 4.0gns to 4.5 with a COL of 1.125 for each. They both shot very well for me and I will try 5.0 @ 1.125 next. One thing I noted was that it took a LONG time for me to get a clean patch through my bore afterwards. I just shot the WST, CCI-500, 180 CMJ combo rnds....about 150 total. It just seemed that there was a lot more bbl fouling compared to factory PMC Bronze i had been shooting. I heard 231 and Unique were good clean powders for .40. I only bought 1# of WST so I'm not married to it. Any suggestions/experience? Thanks again! *---->X

I need a safety check. I just started reloading using the Lyman 49 manual today. I have 2500 Montana Gold CMJ's : 180gn in .40. The guy at my local powder shop suggested WST, so I bought 1#. The closest Lyman had to my componants was a 175gn that started with 5.1gn of WST and an OAL of 1.125. The Lyman manual had 5.1 as the suggested start with a max of 5.7 for WST for the 175g Silvertip...no 180g FMJ/CMJ?? Hodgdon/Winchester website has a 180 FMJ 3.9 up to 4.3?? That's a vast variation from Lyman's data. I find it hard to believe that Lyman doesn't have anything for 180gn FMJ/CMJ!?!? Handloads-dot-com has a 4.5 to 5.0 range for WST behind a 180 JHP... (Sorry, I'm to new of a member to post the link) Summary: I'm confused... Can I get a few opinions of my first test loads (details below) before i try to fire them in my stock Glock 22 Gen4? I'm looking all over for data and I can't find any consistency in recommended loads...aaarrgh! Learning on my Dillon RL550B, I loaded about 20 ct of: Mixed brass...mostly my factory cases I picked up myself (PMC) 180gn Montana Gold CMJ CCI 500 w/ 5.1gn of WST OAL = 1.125 to 1.13 Crimp is .423 Platform: Stock G22 Gen4 Any guidance would be great! Thanks!

I need a safety check. I just started reloading using the Lyman 49 manual. I have 2500 Montana Gold CMJ's : 180gn in .40. The guy at my local powder shop suggested WST, so I bought 1#. The closest Lyman had to my componants was a 175gn that started with 5.1gn of WST and an OAL of 1.125. The Lyman manual had 5.1 as the suggested start with a max of 5.7 for WST for the 175g Silvertip...no 180g FMJ/CMJ?? Hodgdon/Winchester website has a 180 FMJ 3.9 up to 4.3?? That's a vast variation from Lyman's data. I find it hard to believe that Lyman doesn't have anything for 180gn FMJ/CMJ!?!? Handloads-dot-com has a 4.5 to 5.0 range for WST behind a 180 JHP... (Sorry, I'm to new of a member to post the link) Summary: I'm confused... Can I get a few opinions of my first test loads before i try to fire them in my stock Glock 22 Gen4? I'm looking all over for data and I can't find any consistency in recommended loads...aaarrgh! I loaded about 20 ct of: Mixed brass...mostly my factory cases I picked up myself (PMC) 180gn Montana Gold CMJ CCI 500 w/ 5.1gn of WST OAL = 1.125 to 1.13 Crimp is .423 Stock G22 Gen4 Any guidance would be great! THANKS!!

iLuv2Shoot, you're in the right spot - Mike will take good care of you at your local club - when you get the itch to travel a little, go north to Volusia County and Titusville - great shoots also. A little further, come to Orlando for a great shoot - 2/month. Welcome, Jack Thanks Jack. A friend of mine shoot in Titusville on Fridays and I'd like to get that in my routine. Thanks for the contrib and maybe I'll c u there! *----->X

Hi everyone. OK... total newbie, here. I'm trying to clear something up from the 1000's of posts I've read on the .40 glock bulge 'issue'. Can I run a sanity check by those who deal with this to see if I'm on the right track? Also, please feel free to add any comments, suggestions, etc. ( I apologize if this seems a 'beat-to-death' topic. But I shoot stock Gen4 Glocks, have a ton of Glock-fired brass, and I'm waiting for my new Dillon 550b to ship to me any day...all with Dillon .40 dies) 1. It seems that if I reload Glock fired brass and shoot it thru my stock Glock bbl, I'm OK, generally, with just the stage 1 Dillon sizing die? 2. If I need a non-Dillon sizing die to address a bulge/chambering issue, I could get a Lee .40 sizing die and just replace the Dillon in stage 1? It also decaps AND re-primes? 3. Is a 4th stage Crimp die necessary on .40 SW or can I substitute it with another 'bulge fixing' dies post-bullet setting (stage 3). If so, which die options are worthy of the task? Please keep in mind I have a 4-stage 550b, a Dillon case gage, std dillon .40 SW dies, and an uncomfortable feeling what I bought may not work and that I'll have to cycle my brass twice instead of just the std. progressive 4-stage process. Thanks everyone!

Belus...very interesting spreadsheet you have. I noticed that in your notes, you seemed to have a lot of problems with 'sticky primer bar'. Eventually, you sanded, cleaned and polished it to get it to work 'perfectly'. Would you recommend doing that to a press set out of the box as a preventitive measure? Just curious. I have one coming (Dillon 550B) next week. Great and meticulous info...THANKS! *---> X

Hi All! Newbie here. I've read Brian's 'Practical Shooting' book and purchased a new Dillon 550B system from his site today. I'm an Ohio-born self-taught shooter and have started to take shooting in pistol/rifle matches seriously at my 'local' club...hence the need for reloading . I've found this forum to be an EXCELLENT resource. Thank you all for your contributions and I hope to be able to pay it forward soon. * --->X