jmtyndall

Thanks for the input. I feel like if the issue is trigger finger strength or getting the brain acclimated to moving that finger on my uncoordinated hand, then pulling the trigger a bunch might help. If it's anything else, it's going to make the issue harder to solve. I'll keep experimenting with it to see if I can find any solution that works with any degree of certainty. So far I get lucky sometimes and unlucky other times.

Set up for transitions last night. It takes more effort than I expect to move my eyes first before the gun, I kept finding myself tracking the sight across the room and trying to settle it on the target. I really need to work on this quite a bit. Also taking a note here that I need to remember to work on trigger control and trigger control at speed! Freestyle and strong hand only I have good trigger control when moving slowly and I can pull the trigger without disturbing the sights. When moving quickly freestyle trigger control is still good (crushing with the weak hand stabilizes the gun quite a bit), but when shooting strong hand only I have a tendency to tense the whole hand when the buzzer goes off and I start pulling the trigger. I think I know how to work on that. Weak hand only is a totally different story. The sights almost ALWAYS break left as the trigger releases. I've tried sticking more finger in the trigger, less finger in the trigger, purposely pushing right with my trigger finger, removing fingers from the grip, gripping hard, gripping losely, different backstraps and I can't seem to find a consistent solution to this problem. I feel like half the time I pick up the gun I can get about 4/5 trigger pulls without moving the sight, then the next time I pick up the gun I get 0/20 without moving the sight. I've shifted my mental focus from keeping my other fingers perfectly still to concentrating on the trigger finger, to thinking about what show is going to be on TV later and I just cannot pinpoint the issue. It's getting a bit frustrating. Maybe pulling the trigger weak hand only a few thousand times will help? Or maybe it's just going to ingrain whatever the heck I'm doing to cause this.

See the sights, break the shot, move your head/eyes to the next target, bring the gun to your eyes. Tracking the sight is going to be way slower.

Isn't the information available now that it won't make weight? 1.33kg empty as advertised is something like 46.75-47oz without the optic or basepads. So either way you're having the slide worked to make weight.

Not to argue but I don't entirely agree with this. I don't much care how accurate a bullet is if it's only accurate at 118PF. So I generally load 5 rounds each starting from about the middle charge weight, increase by 0.2gr up to max. I can chrono all those and have a ballpark PF for each load and then I can work between 130-140PF in 0.1gr increments to test accuracy (still over the chrono at this point). All in all this should take you less than 100 rounds. Do the same for the other bullet and see if you notice any difference. Overall accuracy is not the most important factor in the games we play. Sure a more accurate load is better, but if you+gun+load can shoot 4-5" at 25 yards you're probably fine. That said, there's something to be said about ignoring some bullets completely based on accuracy. I made the mistake of buying 3000 147gr xtreme bullets. Couldn't get them to group under 2" at 7 yards. Figured my shooting was a bit rusty but when I bought a box of ACME 124gr bullets I found that I was able to stack 10 rounds on a 1" paster. Also the 147s shot ~5" high at 25 yards. No amount of load development is going to fix that!

I know this is an older thread, but a good read right now when I have a case of the "wants." I keep trying to justify to myself that I need to upgrade my M&P to one of these fancy new production guns so that I have have a 5" barrel and adjustable rear sights. I'll stay strong and shoot what I've got for a while longer. Maybe the street price on the new Q5 SF will come down to reasonable levels some day

More to the original post, you can ask dawson for the distance from the top of the sight to the centerline of the fiber (I'm sure they have this), or you can estimate that the center of fiber is ~1 fiber diameter down from the top of the sight. Dawson uses 0.040" fiber. Then assuming the sights come in a height that zeros the pistol at the top of the post, you could order a sight 0.040" taller than their "default" size. For example the sight set for my M&P comes with a 0.180", I would order a 0.220" and go from there.

Short answer, yes. If you want the fiber to move up to where the bullet was impacting (top of the old sight) that is what you'd do.

I would hope so. Trigger safeties are very simple in design so maybe they will integrate it later, or offer two versions? Maybe there can be a later rules clarification that allows deleted safeties if the part is factory provided. Most manufacturers call it a safety. I'm not sure if Walther does or not, but I think it would be an uphill battle to argue it isn't one. Anyways it seems like everything about this gun was designed for USPSA so it seems odd that they would design the safety without considering that. Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

I'm curious, have you read the rules? The rules state all factory safety mechanisms must remain intact. The Q5 comes with a trigger safety, adding a trigger without one does not comply with the rules. The P320 doesn't come with a trigger safety, adding a trigger without one complies with the rules. Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Awesome. Thanks for that info, super helpful Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Thanks for the feedback. I had concerns reading the description that it might not actually reduce my pull weight. So the springs included in the kit increase the pull weight relative to the stock ones?

4.1gr N320 with a 124gr ACME at 1.150" makes 127PF in my gun. Much more accurate than my 147gr Xtreme load. Going to test 4.2 and 4.3gr to see if I can get to the 132-135PF range Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Followed up with a day at the outdoor range. Got a major load worked out for my Glock, but had some chrono errors that interfered with dialing in my minor load. Bad day of shooting groups at 25 yards. Had a couple in the 5 inch range but couldn't manage any better than that. Had a lot of issues focusing on the front sight. I'll see if I can work on maintaining that nice sharp focus before next time out Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Talked to APEX, they don't offer the competition kit for the 2.0's because the competition springs are too light and the kit doesn't function reliably. Their proposed method of getting the trigger pull into the 4lb range is to buy any of the trigger kits plastic or polymer action enhancement kits, or the flat faced trigger and leave in the stock bronze colored springs. The flat faced trigger offers a shorter pull and overtravel than the others, but they're all shorter than stock. Decisions to be made. Not super keen on spending $170 on a trigger, but I'll see if I can find anyone local with one that I can test out first.

One thing I've noticed is helpful is to strip out anything that isn't important to what I'm working on. If I want to pull the trigger fast, pull the target in to 3 yards. Grip the gun just how you normally would but then ignore the sights. Rip off 6 shots into the target as fast as you can. Don't think, don't control the sights or anything. Your mind is just an observer watching and feeling your body shoot at that speed. Once you hit the speed goal you're aiming for a couple of times re-engage your mind, see your sights and start fixing what fell apart without changing the speed. Hopefully that doesn't sound like some hippie bull-****, but that's literally what I did yesterday to make those changes to my split times. I've also used this technique to improve my draw speed. Maybe that can help someone too.

I made an improvement yesterday on trigger pull speed by briefly focusing on releasing the trigger instead of pulling the trigger. Reviewing my match videos in super slow motion I could see I have a strong pin-and-reset habit. I started attacking this in dry fire by making the trigger release part of the trigger pull. For example I always have viewed a single trigger press as placing my finger on the trigger, moving it through the take up to the wall, and then breaking the shot. I am fundamentally changing that idea now and I think of a trigger press as the act of placing my finger on the trigger, pressing it to the rear until it breaks and releasing my finger off the trigger. Just as an example of how horrible my splits are, the first time I tried shooting bill drills I had splits in the 0.3X's, and in my latest match video I'm seeing 0.4X's to 0.5X's. Yesterday after working with this new trigger pull concept I was able to shoot several back-to-back bill drills with splits in the 0.17-0.21 range. These numbers are with a stock M&P trigger, if that matters.

Thanks Jack. While I find that velocity and accuracy at a certain charge are often barrel dependent, we do often see that certain bullets shoot best in a specific velocity window. Also curious if theres any general accuracy trends related to power factor or changes in COL. So it sounds like this spreadsheet would be pretty cool to dig into. Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

On my phone so I cant open this.what is this spreadsheet about/why should I come back on my computer to check it out? Just curious what I might learn here Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

It's just a "grease ring" as are common on lead bullets. Nothing special you need to know or do about it except that it makes the bullet slightly longer. Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Big day at the range today. Went in with the goal to learn some things about the gun and myself, as well as to push splits and focus on grip. I'd consider it a success. First I started off with 15 yard group shooting (15 yards is as far as this indoor range goes). I hate indoor ranges because I can't properly focus on my front sight, but I still shot some decent groups with the goals of 1) confirming my gun is zeroed, 2) confirming whether 124 or 147gr bullets shoot better, and 3) what level of accuracy I can achieve. First two 5 round groups were 3.5" and then 2.5" respectively and they landed 4" above the point of aim and centered about 1" right of center. Then fired a 20 round group which measured just under 5" (I could feel myself losing concentration). Took a break and got out the 124gr bullets, first two 5 round groups were 2.5" and 2.25", and then a 20 round grouping came in at 3.5" including the 2 called high flyers and 1 called low-left. I don't want to throw those out because to me, my shooting is only as good and I can consistently be. I don't get to throw out charlies in a match unless I make them up! 124gr load shoots 1.5ish inches right, and 1 inch high. The Dawson website suggests that I will need a 0.190" high front sight in order to zero the pistol. I need to chrono this 124gr load, and when I do I'll confirm what I'm seeing and order that new sight. Too bad nobody offers an adjustable rear sight. I also need to move my rear-sight 0.020" to the left to center up my hits. Next I was curious how good of a sight picture was needed for "practical accuracy" in this sport. So I tested at 3, 5, 7, 10, and 15 yards by taking my fiber to the limits of the rear sight notch left, right, high and low. I am honestly shocked how much I could get away with while still getting very good hits. Out to 10 yards, if the rear sight in anywhere in the notch, and with an acceptable trigger pull, that's an Alpha. At 15 yards, the same procedure yielded 3 charlies (left, right and low) and one borderline alpha (high). I wanted this information to prove to myself that I don't need to stare so hard at the sights, wasting time, to get good hits. I moved on to shooting 3 and 5 yard bill drills, with the personal goal to break my pin-and-reset habits and mental blocks about sight picture to try and get some faster splits. The first couple of attempts I just couldn't do it, I was seeing the sights line up and breaking 2 shots with 0.4-0.5 splits. I decided to apply the lessons learned from my draw practice last night, just force your body to do it fast and watch or observe what happens. Almost like watching from the outside. By the third attempt I was ripping all 6 shots in 1.3 seconds with splits in the 0.17-0.20 range (plus a little reaction time for the buzzer), looked at the target and I was shooting all alphas, as I should be at 5 yards. I took this new confidence and started shooting doubles, just absolutely pulling the trigger as fast as I can and trying to observe the gun. Feel what it's doing in my hand, see the sights, feel my trigger finger moving, feel the hand tension and the arm tension etc. After a couple reps I realized how much I could see despite how fast I was going. I could see the sights moving, the harder I gripped (my hands hurt now) the less the sights moved, I could even call some of the shots! I moved this out to 10 yards and tried the same thing. I couldn't fully break the mental block that was slowing me down but I was shooting in the 0.20s and 0.30s with great success. Shot 5 rounds of this with 3 low-left charlies which I knew the instant I yanked the trigger that I tensed the whole hand and pulled the shot low. I'm really excited about this in particular, looking forward to working on this more and pushing to further distances while learning to keep everything under control and see what's happening. Finally, I needed some reassurances about my weak-hand only shooting after the other shooter told me that I shot 2 mikes on the classifier last week. I shot 50 rounds, weak hand only at a 10 yard head box. I shot 44 alphas, 5 bravos and one mike. Feeling pretty good, but not definitive I decided to add some pressure to help simulate how I would have felt in the match. Set a 3 second timer and shot 2 shots to the lower A-zone, followed by 1 to the upper A-zone. I did this 20 times and shot 0 mikes. I now have the peace of mind that ghosts didn't fly by and rip tape off the target during that classifier. I hit my shots and he saw them wrong. I feel...inspired and ready to work. Excited for my next range session.

Thanks for the info regarding compatibility. That will probably play into the decision somewhat as well.

Woah...lots of posts in the last 24 hours. I was listening to Ben Stoeger's podcast today and they were talking about the need to go fast and "break things" in practice so you get to know what fast feels like, then fix those things and learn to see at that new speed. I brought this to dry fire tonight and, I'll be damned, it actually worked. I started with my draw which I've been hovering around 1.1 seconds. I decided to just beat 0.9 seconds and see what it looked like. A couple tries and I hit that. Okay, beat 0.8 seconds. A couple tries and hit that. So I set a goal to beat 0.7 seconds. I was able to get a couple reps at 0.72 seconds. At this point everything was falling apart. So I started putting things back together. Hit the weak hand grip. See the sights. Align the gun. Suddenly I was hitting 0.9 second draws and seeing the sight. I'd make a mistake, adjust my grip and hit a draw that felt glacially slow, but the time would say less than 1.1 seconds. I went ahead and ran in this 0.9-1.0 second range for a while with good success. I tried to apply this to reloads and ended up throwing a few mags across the room and missing a lot of reloads without getting any faster. I think next time I'll try doing this Burkett style Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Hey, couple of quick questions regarding Apex trigger kits on the 2.0 series of M&P. Looking on the website it looks like the 2.0 series uses parts from the M&P 45 kits instead of the parts from the small frame 1.0 kits. I don't see the competition action enhancement kits listed for the 2.0 pistols and I'm wondering if I can just order the kit for 45 ACP guns, or if I need to order the spring kit for the 1.0 9/40 and then the plunger/sear for the 45? None of this may matter if I end up buying the fancy aluminum trigger they offer, but I want to test one out before I spend that kind of money.

Welcome to C-class! 54.97% My current classifiers are as follows: 68.52% 52.15% 50.89% 48.33% 38.19% 5.44% - Will be dropped because it's more than 5% lower than the minimum C-class score. 45.63% Assuming that my next classifier comes in around my current percentage then the 5.44% and the 38.19% won't be counted and I will be around 54%. Upper C-class. I see some low-hanging fruit which hopefully I can pick up quickly and move into B class over the next few months. Looking at my shooting now I see the following as keys to getting into B class: Confidence, Splits & Transitions, Execution of practice skills. Confidence and execution should come with more matches and more live-fire practice in general. I need to prove in live-fire that I can accomplish what I'm doing in dry fire. Faster splits should come with confidence combined with training away my pin-and-reset habits. Transitions will be worked into my dry training, and hopefully I can improve them by working on my index and seeing the sights faster.