SevoTT
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Posts posted by SevoTT
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Another vote for not enough swage. I have seen this exact same problem when my swager loosened up on my 1050.
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I shoot a 14.5 LW for most of my 3gun and have not noticed any detriment out to 500 or so. Really like it up close when shooting around barrels etc.
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Got mine too. Really like it with the PW autodrive.
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I had similar problems with mixed mil brass when first setting up my 1050. Turned out I had the swaging station mis adjusted. The swage rod was too high, and the backup/expander rod was too high. This caused the casing to be pushed up as it was being swaged resulting in a almost imperceptible bending of the case rim. Easiest way to check, is to watch the shelllplate to make sure that it is not being pushed up at the swaging station.
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Haven't had Benny do any of my work, but sent 2 M2's to Jeff and couldn't be happier. Very fast turn around, reasonable pricing, and no problems with either gun.
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The Dillon trimmer is a little finicky to set up, so a dedicated toolhead for sizing trimming will save some setup time.
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I will second the benefit of the MBF. Just put the "new" version on my 9mm 1050, and don't know how I lived without it. So far fed MG 147, Berrys 147, Speer 124's, 6000 total, without having to change any settings. Can't wait till the rifle version comes out, and 4min/100 is not really flogging it with a RF100.
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I second the 3.4-3.5. My favorite load with MG and Berrys 147s.
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I found that these bullets were finicky to get to work. I needed an OAL from 1.06-1.10 for them to feed in my various 1911, 2011, M&Ps. Gave up on them because I found them to be far from "always good" across different pistols. Had much better luck with the Berry's 124 HBRN-TP with 4.0 TG and a 1.15 OAL gave a PF of 126-131.
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I adjusted the bottom rod up until I just barely had reliable primer seating on the mixed brass that I use. Until I adjusted it up, I had up to 5% crushed or smeared primers. I still have the ring or crimp visible, but the lip is rounded over/swaged (looks more like the case on the left in the last photo). Based on the 3rd photo, my bottom rod is adjusted a little higher. Bottom line, you should seat a couple hundred primers trouble free to know if you have the pocket swaged enough.
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I found that two things helped my 5/100 crushed primer problem, the first was adding a PW autodrive (I think is was the sturdy mounting plate for the PW that helped, and not the drive itself) and the second was increasing the amount of swage. Now I see 1/1000 and these are mostly brass with slightly off center primer pockets.
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Giuseppe,
You may also look at the HSGI Tacos. 223 and 308 mags fit and are held securely without having to adjust the pouch. Same for the pistol pouches, they hold single and double stack without adjustment. You may recall that the boy was using them at your most recent outing at the Farm. You are also welcome to use my kydex press to brew up whatever your heart desires.
TT
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Well, I was a complete newb when it came to reloading and I went against a lot of the advice and started with a 1050 (actually two) from the get go. Granted, I have not tried anything else, but I could not imagine loading on anything but a 1050 especially for high volume reloading of military cases. There is a relatively steep learning curve, but this forum and Dillon helped me get up and running with very few glitches. The only downside was the high start up cost, but now I am shooting loads tuned to each of my guns. I load all of my 3gun match ammo on it and it has served me better than factory match grade ammo.
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I have been using the exact same bullets loaded to 1.145 over N320. I found that 3.4/147 and 4.0/124 was as low as I could go and still make minor PF out of my 5" 2011. For a fun super soft load, 3.2/147 and 3.8/124 but won't reliably lock the slide back on the 2011 or reliably cycle a G34.
RCBS 308 dies...
in Rifle/Shotgun
Posted
I use a Redding Type S FL sizer set up per the Redding instructions and 100%LC brass. LC brass runs 100% through my 700. Make sure cases are well lubed and be sure to trim.