vossman

I do the same. Most folks are happy to give it away.

Dry graphite works pretty good along with steel wool to the bar itself.

Dang.

24.5g of H335 comes out about 2800fps out of a 16 inch barrel.

Can you post a closeup video maybe?

Cool but bummer you had to fix it.

I was wondering about the same thing.

Thanks all.

Do I have to put the nut back in the stock rod?

How do you change recoil springs on an M&P? DO you have to buy a new spring and rod, a whole new assembly, or is there a way to take out the little black hex end that keeps the unit together so I'd only have to buy the springs?

I just got mine yesterday so add another to the count

Nice, I'd take that group with my full size.

I had pretty much the same thing as you except for W231 for powder so I could load all pistol with the one powder. The 550B keeps me more than happy shooting 1000 rounds a month or so. It does well with .223 and H335 powder. I kept the RockChucker for .270 and my .223 varmint gun.

Have run about 4k JHP through mine. All Zero, 165gn loaded to 1.120. I can load light or heavy, they all go through.

I made the same bench, solid as a rock. Yours is much cleaner though. Looks great.

Roger that. I will press on. Thx V

I have got a 550B reloading .45 mixed brass. Lately I have noticed there is some sticking on the up stroke of the handle. I have narrowed it down to the powder funnel sticking on the way out/releasing from the casing. After looking I have noticed a lot of scratches on the powder funnel and after dropping powder there are noticeable scratches on the inside of the cases. See pics. Don't think it really matters but just want to make sure. Its kind of annoying. If you look on the right side of the pic of the funnel you can see one of the scratches, you can feel them too. Doesn't seem like any particular brand of brass is doing it either. All cases are lubed with One-Shot and run on Dillon Carbide dies. Thoughts would be great. V

Hmmm, is it the light that causes the discoloration? That's a great idea since I only use one powder. For the most part I have been letting it run down to the metal so I don't have to empty it.

Thank you both for the info. Keeping the wrench in the bolt is a good tip. Is there a way to adjust the primer seating pin. I saw there is an allen bolt on the right side.

No media in the casing or the 550. I tumble with stainless media so I am careful with that. 1/4 turn is probably a lot more loose than I am running mine. I will try a bit looser. Thx I will take a closer look at the punch too. It looked pretty good when I cleaned it at 2k but maybe it got out of whack. One thing I did do was size a few cases without seating primers. The cases actually grew about .003 each so that would mean my primers are only out .002-.004 which may not be that bad. I shot 200 today and they all went bang. V

I'd be happy to post pics. What should I take pics of? How do you know if cases are primer crimped? They all deprime and prime easily, some need a litte more force but nothing special. I deprime using a single stage press then tumble BTW. V

Got a 550B with about 2000 rds loaded on it, all .40 cal. The machine is rock solid. I have two issues I hope you can answer. 1. Using mostly Winchester but a few other mixed, cleaned, and lubed brass my CCI primers are seating about .005-.007 above flush on the casing. Is this normal? I have the shell plate adjusted as tight as I can so it indexes freely without it binding. I assume if I loosened it would still seat high or even higher. I was thinking of trying Rem primers which are a little softer, maybe they will go in a bit more or compress a little more. 2. When I adjust the shellplate bolt without anything in it and tighten the locking screw, I can get it to point where it will index freely 3/4 of the rotation then increasingly bind and then release. Almost as if something is crooked. I have put grease on the bolt head where it contacts the index star and a little oil on the ball/spring but that is it. Once I get to this point I will loosen it a bit more so it rotates freely all the way around then tighten down the lock again. For the most part it will move freely when loading but about 5 out of 100 times when there is a shell in each station it will bind again, as if the primer is dragging. So it seems like one issue would be solved by tightening the bolt and the other by loosening it. Any thoughts? Thanks V

Where do the Remington primers fall into this list? I would assume between Win and CCI.

I have seen someone do this. I believe they posted it on the Smith and Wesson forum.