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eric nielsen

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Everything posted by eric nielsen

  1. That's a good-looking gun. If it fits your hand and points right there's probably no good reason to spend an extra thousand (or two) on a metal-gripped 2011 type Limited blaster.
  2. eric nielsen

    RTS 2

    Is there a way to tell the dot size from looking at the sight? Box says 6 minutes but dot seems smaller than that. Matt talked me into it; so far I like it better than the big Aimpont, gun balance is better and dot is still very easy to find.
  3. Thanks. Wish i had kept it for my wife, she wants to shoot now, that was a fun gun.
  4. You can reduce it down some. The Jentra was a gigantic chunk of metal that I reduced down to something like 2.5 ounces before selling this Open gun. It only had 2 set screws, if you over-tightened the dust cover would start to bend up and bind on the slide. Johnnie's design is much better for attaching to the dust cover. Painting it black sounds like a good idea. These days you can get a bigger, heavier, prettier magwell too.
  5. The Salomon Fellcross is flatter to the ground, less than half the heel drop compared to the SC3. I found a used pair (S-Labs) that were run in 2 trail races & only needed minor cleaning up. $80 on eBay. Comfort and stability are very good, your foot doesn't move within the shoe. Absent some distinct amount of mud or puddles, the 1/4" tread works pretty well. They're the latest and greatest in that regard - until they stop making them. Used to be it was the Nike Trigo and related - Nike stopped making those soles altogether. Then it was the Adidas Kanadia 3 - fast, super light, perfect for summer, very well ventilated; Adidas stopped making them - put that tread on higher, thicker, heavier, hotter shoe models. I expect Salomon to follow suit and stop making theirs or just screw them up with new features we don't want. For mud, you need 1/2" tread. Like Nike Land Sharks. Hot, unventilated, but waterproof. Not nearly as good as Salomons for heel-toe shooting on the move, but way better than slipping and pulling a muscle or just plain landing on your butt. BTW Nike stopped making the lighter/cooler low cut models, so did Adidas with their cleats. I stopped gluing mine together and now just have the mid-cuts.
  6. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=188902
  7. Something that can help make your blue gun more "real" is to jam some lead into the grip area, maybe even the slide/barrel areas, and probably double the weight of your dorm gun. Go to the fishing section of Walmart, most of them have a good selection of fishing sinkers. Guestimate what will fit into your grip, buy them, buy some epoxy putty (automotive section), (talking 10-15 bucks), take them home, grab your dad/brother/uncle's electric drill and hollow out enough space to tap in the lead sinkers, follow each one with epoxy then paint blue or purple or whatever over the plugged end. I once took the best-fit magical size sinker that I hammered and hammered to fit above the brass backstrap fitting of a Dawson Glock magwell; you don't have to hammer anything unless you want to square off the shape a little and line up more sinkers in the same hole. If you try it, shoot me a PM, like to know how heavy you get it to. If you F it up badly enough also let me know I'll buy you a new blue gun.
  8. Highly recommend Matt's ball-detent racker. Have it on my Ltd, kicking myself for not having him do the Open gun (standard slide cut). Yes you can clear gun boo-boos and return to shooting faster. Had some random jam at the Monster Match, the stage that was all head shots. Still came in something like 5th on that stage. Told people on the squad I had a jam; they said they didn't notice.
  9. If no one's told you yet, you have to look after your classifiers that count versus those that the system says are "too high" - this can get you stuck in B if you shoot 90.01% scores that don't count because they are more than 15% above the top of your class; meanwhile scores of 55.01% do count - those are the ones that really kill your average, especially as your top scores drop off for being "too old". After my initial "B" card in Open, I wrote on all my classifier sheets (stone age tech) the phrase "Dear USPSA - please count any score more than 15% above the top of my class, as these represent my present ability - thanks." This (and training) helped me get to A class in a few months. Nowadays there are no paper sheets mailed to USPSA so you have to check your scores and send an email to the classifier administrator when a "too high" score happens. Once you're in A class it doesn't matter, a 100% counts (but it still took me more than 2 years to make Master, that's when the "training" part really matters - a lot). It's even worse if you get penned into C class. Bottom score that counts is 35.01%, top score that counts is 74.99%. You shoot a bunch of solid-A scores like 80% and they don't even count; your gun chokes or you toss a mag change right into the dirt and get a 36% - guess what, that counts. C is the hardest class to get out of for this reason, unless you do some tracking & use some strategy. HTH
  10. Search reveals... http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=185624
  11. Can't go due to a medical conference that Saturday. I will pay the class fee of a Junior shooter (read: Jason, Seth, Evan) if one can make it to this class. I think it's a great opportunity.
  12. Aluminum: 1.30" across all the way top-bottom. Wood: 1.4" at bottom-rear, about 1.35" across the mag release area, about 1.25" across the front 1/3 or so where your fingertips grip the gun - due to the triangular shape which I really like. All measurements include grip tape which cover the Tyc aluminum grips completely & the left-bottom of the wood grips from grips4u.net. I like how both are relatively flat on top; if you look at the web photo you see a very nice palm swell on the CZ rubber grips but unfortunately they flair at the top, that flare doesn't get up to the safety lever, so it cuts right into the largest knuckle of my right hand.
  13. Yep. Matt offered to do up a single-side mount for me, thinking the offset mount would be a good idea with or w/out extra screws. My Caspian had the Dawson pattern and Allchin made me up a mount to fit that. His thumb rest is still my favorite.
  14. My gun only needs 9.6 of 3n38 (or 9.6 of Vectan SP2) to comfortably make Major w/124 MG CMJ's. No porting thru the 5" barrel. Another great combo is 10.xx of HS6 and 115 grain jacketed bullets. Back when Zero 115 JHPs were available & reasonable cost that was a great way to go; now you're luck if you get any Zero bullet w/less than 3 months wait and less than $100/thousand. Tried many powders & bullets thru my guns and friends' guns; nothing really beats the options above.
  15. I'm looking to go back to the upright C-More on my Open gun, lowest weight possible. Needs to fit the Weigand pattern which is 3 uneven-spaced holes on each side of the frame: Can I buy a Serendipity with no holes for custom mounting? What about the Double Tap (SV) mount: https://www.doubletapsports.com/image/cache/data/product/main/gps007-500x500.png. Would consider using a left-side only mount and drill 1-2 more holes in frame (not my first choice). After talking with several great Open shooters I'm ready to put my sole surviving Aimpoint back in the box and use something that doesn't contribute to gun movement/rebound during recoil. This may include getting a stainless PT grip rather than using my Heavy Ice magwell. More weight in the hand, less weight above or below my hand. Either way, I know that the original C-More design is the fastest for transitions; after direct comparison in recent matches I know my transitions require more work and better equipment. Thanks in advance for your help, I need contact info for whoever might actually sell me a blank scope mount.
  16. What Jerry shoots works well for him; realize his gripping strength at this point could probably crush bricks. For 3-gun and the steel matches he's using factory ammo or the equivalent and getting some porting effect from the 4 or 5 grains of powder pushing a 115 or 124 grain bullet. Also his gun looks just like the product S&W sells which is a plus for his sponsor and for clearing the full kydex 3-gun holster. For you to use the same setup at Major you need about 7.5 to 9 grains of a slower powder; with Jerry's gun most all of that is going to blast straight out the front of the barrel in the form of rocket effect, which will make the gun seem harder to control than a 40-caliber Limited gun on the same platform. If you do what he does, stay with Minor ammo, save a lot of $$ and headaches, and keep trying out (shooting) other people's full Open guns; within a year of local matches you'll know exactly what you want.
  17. The first area championship I ever went to, i thought John Benton had won the whole match. Seeing him shoot, I could not conceive of someone (Todd) being able to go even more fast/accurate. Sad day, he was a great guy.
  18. Had the great pleasure of shooting with Travis last weekend. A contender for Nicest Guy on the Planet Earth, I'm certain he will take care of you as well as work to prevent your issue from happening to Para buyers going forward.
  19. They feel different in the hand; I like the thick aluminum better. Even though the AL grips don't cover the top-rear corner of the gun, with my large hands I still do not get my knuckle bashed on the right-side safety lever. With the thin AL grips my hand is ready for a visit to the ER after about 500 rounds. On my 2 shadows I have one pair (custom wood) from grips4u.net and one pair (the thick AL) from a forum member; traded for my VZ's. The thick AL add about one more ounce to the gun.
  20. eric nielsen

    RTS 2

    Just saw one fail repeatedly over 2 days at the Florida Open. Whole crew of friends & family with about $1000 worth of high-tech collared shirts to represent their gun products, that had to be frustrating. On the other hand, my favorite Aimpoint died 4 days prior to the match but it gave something like 18 years and 150,000 rounds of great service up to that point.
  21. Yep! If you take rooster's advice, you are really doing yourself a dis-service as you will be on for just one distance and trigger speed. The trigger has to be pressed straight back and with the Glock, unless you have almost perfect technique, you will get what you have found. When that trigger finger is applying a force vector that is other than straight into the center of the trigger at the point of firing, you will have disrupted the sights. The gun IS hitting where you are aiming at the point of firing, just not where you were pointing it for much of the trigger take-up. What Mark said, perfect. The way I see the ideal trigger is squared up in these aspects: --travels straight to the rear and therefore moves in the same line as your sight-line to the target --breaks straight to the rear (no side-side wobble either) --trigger face is flat & square to its travel from top to bottom --trigger face is flat & square to its travel from side to side Sounds like a 1911 with a flat trigger, yes? Some designs, like a Tanfo SA-only gun with a flat trigger, introduce 1 minor handicap - a curved travel front-rear Some designs, like the XDm, have a 2nd handicap - trigger face curved top-bottom But at least those 2 triggers travel consistently w/no wobble; they feel solid under your fingertip for the prep & for the break The Glock design adds 3 more challenges: --face of trigger rounded side-side --safety trigger puts all the pressure into one tiny line of applied force (which you must pivot around in 3 dimensions of travel) --the whole process wobbles; you can easily pull a Glock trigger to one side or another by a millimeter or more Some people manage to master this shooting problem but after a few years of trying with a 28-oz trigger I just said heck with that.
  22. Okay today I play with my CZ's and find that the standard Shadow with the long take-up and reset does have some amount of training-trigger effect when holding the hammer full back and the slide forward. Like before, this effect is not there with the slide locked back. Something about how the disconnector works I guess. If you have a CZ or Tanfo gun you may want to try taping the hammer back. On mine there's a two-stage dry-fire pull that "breaks" a little further back then the real pull and doesn't reset as far forward either. The pull weight is about 1 lb less than the SA break on that gun. My Shadow Custom with the short-reset trigger system has no training-trigger effect at all, neither does my ancient Tanfo SA-only gun. Anyway in Production you would still want to mix in tons of DA pull practice but this might be worth a try. Not as realistic as either of my STI guns w/the trigger taped back but something I will use on the standard Shadow. Saves on the return spring at least.
  23. Things to check in order of importance: 1. pull striker assy, run q-tip down tunnel, see if there are tiny primer shavings in there. check often. 2. ditch all the light striker springs. factory w/2 coils cut off is about as light as you dare w/any primer 3. check for free movement of striker, no friction from safety plunger. w/empty gun, dry fire and shake gun, should hear the rattle of the striker moving about freely 4. if #3 above only happens while holding the trigger back, you need to back off your trigger overtravel stop 5. get a lightened, extended striker. but don't think that exempts you from #2 above. edit: Once all the above is done and your gun runs reliably with Winchester, Remington, or CCI primers, that's when you proceed to the hoarding of all Federal #100 primers in North America, and learn how to crunch-seat those primers. You can feel each primer seat and use sufficient force on each seating if you use a Dillon Square Deal, 550, or 650 press. With those presses you can use the off-hand to provide opposing leverage: right hand pushes handle forward, left hand pulls back on some sturdy part of the press. I've done this 20+ years and broken one part total: the big crank handle of a Square Deal. Best man at my wedding broke a 550 crank handle. If you load with a 1050 press you cannot feel the seating taking place; you have to adjust the seating depth and cross your fingers. All this applies to revolver shooters too. PS: You don't want to use Federal 100's with Open powders that run through the flash hole, you're likely to melt or even blast clear through a Fed primer. Get a thicker primer or get a bulkier powder to shoot Open.
  24. Seems like a good quality airsoft replica would give you the resetting trigger and a tiny amount of simulated recoil and a slide that moves, unlike the SIRT at 1/10 the price of the big compressed air thing.
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