eric nielsen

Out of stock (keep checking) for a very good reason. http://www.benstoegerproshop.com/BSPS-BOSS-DOH-Holster-Hanger-p/bsps-hanger.htm

Tried one out last year at a safe table - just racking and dry-firing a CZ custom shop CTS in 9mm. Very well done with a truly great trigger. Best semi-auto trigger I've ever tried is still my early-90's Tanfogio in 40 S&W. Take-up and reset is 1.25 lbs; it breaks (like falling off a cliff) absolutely clean at 1.75 lbs. Took me a year to get it like that. The CTS was almost that clean, and lighter.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TYD-xtV8zQ0

If you have to smack your new Grams pad onto a mag, it's because the mag body is not squared up or "true"at the bottom. If you're lucky you can make that good-enough by running the mag body over Emory cloth on top of a very flat table surface. I failed to do this on my first Grams pad and all that force from jamming non-parallel mag bottoms into parallel slots in the pad is the reason why that pad cracked, luckily in practice. Never asked Beven for a refund because I knew it was my fault. I like the Dawson pads too because once you buy the official mag gauge (just do it) it's easy to see where a few file swipes at the very back corner of your feed lips and a little off the back edge of the pad will let it fit the gauge. All my Limited and Open mags fit with over a millimeter to spare. The material removed is not enough to touch the back rim of the top ammo round on top and not enough to thin out the pad (at all) below the hollowed-out section on the bottom. SNL pads on SV 140 mags in Limited, non-SNL pads for Open.

New Zenni Optical glasses arrived today, quicker than I expected (13 days). Better than the 1st pair in some minor ways - no tinting, spring hinges, and a little less Add power in the right eye. Now when I extend the gun out strong-hand-only, the front sight is still the clearest. If you have too much add power, the rear sight will start to become more clear than the front, which is less than ideal. All depends on how far out you hold the gun and how bad your vision is. Some people may benefit from using their full prescription Near Vision "add" number while for others it may be too much. If your N.V. + number is huge (up to 3.0 diopter) you may have to compromise on the difference between your left & right eye correction to avoid getting a sick feeling, or, you may just get used to it. Seems to vary by who you ask too - people are different.

I just made another order with Zenni. The website popped up a box that said + on one eye and - on the other eye was "highly unusual, are you sure" or similar. Also the last page before completing the order said "we *request* you send a photocopy of your prescription" but then the purchase went thru without any problems. The building and shipping takes a while so I'm expecting them to arrive in September. Once I'm sure I've nailed the best self-prescribed +/- numbers I will probably get a pair of Decots. They cost more.

After saying I wouldn't, I switched back to bullets-out. It works better for my type of low reload. To answer post 1 (and 13) yes I'm sweeping the left thumb around from pouch to pouch; when it finds a mag, the rest of the hand wraps around the mag & draws it out. Works best when the index finger finds the corner of the pouch near the 1st bullet before pulling the mag; it also finds the front strap of the gun before seating the mag, so that fingertip controls how long those two pauses last. If the thumb doesn't find a mag it just bounces over the top of empty pouches until there's a full one stopping it from going further. In dry-fire I go beep, draw, and 4 reloads in under 6 seconds every time. Warmed up, more like 5.5. Shadow Target with Ghost pouches. Dry fire's pretty much all I do this summer with work every other weekend and houses in 2 counties to take care of. Eventually that will settle down.

That video does a good job of showing how much weight EG puts out onto the balls of his feet. In an interview not too long ago, Rob Leatham said that a practice session of just a few hundred rounds would leave his calf muscles burning.

Anyone have a photo or video showing how your hands fit over a NitroFin fitted gun? The idea of not using the thumb tip seems appealing. So far I agree with CHALEE: the more I grip down with the left hand, the more any thumb pressure starts pointing the gun to some odd direction, requiring a counter-pointing force from the right hand, and so on. This is what I use in Open, a hand-made shelf taken off of my Limited gun (which now has no thumb aid). It's mainly there to allow some more dot stability while triggering the gun quickly:

I've done it both ways using the Ghost pouches and Production mags. Using only 4 pouches there's no real difference in how much room it takes up on my belt. I switched back to bullets-forward just because that's how i've done it in Open and Limited for many years. Also it was a more natural flow at the time when I was tapping the top/rear of the new mag into the back of the CZ magwell (which is not very big). Since then I asked Ben a question which he answered on his podcast - http://benstoeger.com/joomla30/media/com_podcastmanager/swingers.mp3 After playing around with it a while I found myself keeping the gun in a very natural position (tipped not even 30 degrees to the right) down in front of my sternum; can't see the magwell at all, eyes on the bottom 1/2-inch of the grip panel. New mag comes up at about a 45-degree angle, top round pointed pretty directly downrange. Tap the the top-LEFT edge of the new mag into the LEFT side edge of the magwell. Easier to do than to describe. The mag goes to the right place front-back-wise if I remember to touch the left index fingertip to the front/bottom corner of the gun each time. Beauty of this reload is it does not change from standing to running left to running right, it's all the same. Pretty easy to do with eyes looking somewhere else entirely such as a stage prop you have to run around. I believe bullets-out would work well with this but I'm not changing again. As Ben says in one of his books, it helps a lot to point the gun right at the mag pouch you're drawing from and also get a very solid grip on the new mag - think of it as a left-handed draw. If you botch your pistol draw, the shooting may go south quickly. If you botch your magazine draw, the mag change may go south quickly. Whichever style (bullets-out or bullets-forward) gives you the most solid consistent magazine draw, that's probably the way you want to go with, for all pistol divisions.

Other possibilities are - 2011 grip screws are loose (doesn't seem logical but it is a real problem if yours are loose) - bullets hitting comp One requires an Allen wrench, the other needs a very specialized comp reamer to fix it right, or a 3/8" drill bit to fix it wrong

Brand new (mid-1990's) those guns sold for around $3000 which is $4500 in today's money. Mine had already been shot a LOT when I got it in 2004; the gun you just bought is worth much more than mine, congrats. PS that thing being cut up for scrap would be even worse than TGO's Springfield P9 getting stolen, sold to a movie prop company, used in a movie (Rising Sun), and never returned to the rightful owner.

I would suggest the Cheely mount since your frame is already drilled, probably with the right hole pattern. It doesn't weigh much. My experience with a slide-mounted optic vs frame mount is, you get lighter weight, somewhat better accuracy, worse dot-tracking, and shorter optic life w/the slide mount. It can be very tough to break the sight-tracking habit (from iron sights) when you see the optic blasting back & forth; you end up not focused on the targets which is slow.

Best guess 1994. That's when the open gun I still have (bought in 2004) was built at Springfield by Jack Weigand. My understanding is that Rob designed almost every aspect, these are the first Custom Shop guns since they switched from 9x25 to 9x23 or Supercomp. The 9x25 guns had comps with 8 chambers, 4 up and 4 out. Mine cost 1250 and did not have hard chrome or special serial number or graffiti but same scope, mount, comp, grip, and magwell. Sold off the grip and magwell, cut the #6 chamber off the comp, ran the slide till it cracked last December, ran the scope till it cracked last Feb (a good long life). Nowlin barrel and comp, now with an RTS2, still groups under 1" at 25 yards. I wonder if it's the 1995 Open match-winning gun or if that one is still in Rob's gun vault. Either way that gun looks like it's been in a cool dry place for a long time and has a lot of life left in it. If it was in the USA I'd buy it today.

"Calling BS" is something my friends & I did when comparing stories about girls we kissed at summer camp.

Yep - L9X25's more recent guns (for me) were much easier to shoot than the early flat-flat monsters. Still remember when I'd tell Leo, "Pay you a dollar to beat my time!" hoping he would flame out with D's and Mikes. Good times.

Maybe 10 hours a week, wish it was 20. I do most all my dry-fire now with my iron-sight 2011 because it provides a quality simulated trigger press by doing this: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=188902 Switching to the STI open gun is very easy after all the Ltd practice and the gun-handling stays more precise; with iron sights your gun needs to present up to exactly the right spot but with a dot you can get away with floating around some and still get the dot on target. Don't dry-fire very much with the Production CZ's any more as I tend to spend nearly all my time on mag changes.

If you have glasses or contacts already, you have a prescription on file (by law). Find yours or ask your optometrist's office to send it to you. These help explain it; if you have any presbyopia at all, you will get the near-vision numbers like in the first link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eyeglass_prescription http://news.essilorusa.com/stories/detail/decoding-your-eyeglass-prescription I suggest for shooting: 1. Find the NV (near vision) number for your shooting eye (the one you align sights with) and take away just a little of the Add power, to account for arms-length shooting, especially the occasional one- handed shooting where most of us hold the gun out a few inches farther away than freestyle. So if you shoot right-hand, right-eye and your OD NV says +1.75, I'd back off to +1.50 or +1.25 for your right eye, as a single-vision lens with NO cylinder and NO prism. 2. Find the DV (distance vision) number for your non-shooting eye. This eye will not see sights in front of it. Use that number, OR, minus just a little bit from it (1/4 to 1/2 diopter) to make the targets appear just a little sharper than your normal glasses. So if that eye's Distance Vision number is -1.75, go to -2.00; if it's +0.75, go to +0.50. Again, use NO cylinder and NO prism and ignore the Axis number. Also, ordering rimless or semi-rim glasses will take away a vision obstruction as you look down to do a mag change, watch your footing, whatever - more like having a pair of Oakley or Rudy glasses which are semi-rim. Having prism and cylinder to correct for astigmatism is okay for getting a perfect image out of one narrow center section of your glasses; it makes all your off-center scanning for additional targets look through a distorted picture, that's why I suggest simple spherical lenses for both eyes. Edit: the PD or pupillary distance number is important for getting the best image with any glasses, so use it. If you're curious, the Diopter (strength) is called out in 1/4-D numbers but at the drug store it's just about impossible to find readers that have less than +1.00 power. I'm just starting to get "old" so my current shooting glasses are: Right +0.75, Left -0.25. Link for ordering your own shooting glasses without arguing with the eye-doctor staff (they tend to insist on the written prescription): http://www.zennioptical.com/ And... http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=184713&page=2 post 34

This is a show you need to watch if you care about your legs and feet and running ability, at all. The link will show you two video segments but if you have a DVR, you probably have the Smithsonian Channel, and I suggest you do a DVR search and record the entire hour. http://www.smithsonianchannel.com/sc/web/show/3393860/perfect-runner-the

I've shot 9x25 guns that were totally flat at the old power factor when we all loaded to 181. They had holes through the barrel & slide and were completely obnoxious, you had to low-crouch to RO one of those guys so your head stayed out of the shock waves. Honestly the sweetest shooting Open gun I ever tried was a friend's 9x25 SV with plain steel 4-chamber cone comp on a skinny barrel, no porting, with then-new Signature series steel grip. Still very loud but the concussion was tolerable (for the shooter anyway) and the gun while having a little bit of flip, basically shot itself. No joke that thing was easier than Airsoft - all the recoil was in your mind, based on the noise.

My 2c for how to adjust the BOSS. Set it all the way at the lowest track. Set the holster vertical: perpendicular to your belt. Tighten the screws just snug enough to not let the holster flop around. Get in your shooting stance, stay in it. Holster your gun. At vertical setting this probably is somewhat awkward. Now grab down on your gun as hard as you can in the holster so that it moves to your natural grasp angle. Remove gun, remove belt, mark the position, tighten your screws all the way, you're done.

CR Speed belt, Comp-Tac International holster, BOSS hanger, Ghost pouches. BOSS hanger is a gigantic improvement over the Comp-Tac hanger. The CR belt is very good; just bought a DAA belt for my Open/Ltd rig, it's a little better. Few weeks ago swapped to the Ghost traditional pouches, just never got the hang of the Ghost bullets-out grab after many years reloading the standard way. Still think Ghost are the best pouch because they hang on the belt lower than other brands, you can try either position style, and the price is low.

Could be wrong but looks like there is room on the TS for a racker:

Best thing for me (the Shadow was my first DA/SA gun) was getting a stronger grip in all the fingers not resting on the trigger: