Harley999

Just had a great interaction with Midway and their representative, what an outstanding organization. Added bonus is I always wanted to try a Lee product and it is made in the USA. Problem solved. Thanks for all your support. For God and Country, Paul

Thanks Sarge, big fan of Midway. Will order today.

A Dilly quote “We'll remove the case and reinstall the carbide ring in the new die body. This will be faster than waiting for a new carbide size die.” Yes, they will reuse the collar. Agree, terminology is important. You call it a sizing die. Again, a Dillon email quote “550B deprimer” stated an initial response. Tried to use their terminology.

AHI, yes and I will give the short version. I now have 10 emails and 3 RMA #’s plus a lot of confusion. They seem to want the collar and stuck casing but I am not sure, given the repeated assignment of RMA's. By the way, when I crossed trained to a flying assignment during Vietnam, my NCO was and is from Boone, NC. Beautiful country. Kema, thanks for the reply. You don’t know how much I want to try this. If I could find a source for a new die, I would definitely try this. If the Dillon warranty process doesn’t resolve soon, I will proceed. My biggest concern is that the stuck casing gauged fine, so why did it get so stuck in a carbide collar? Seems like the collar has a problem. To have Dillon transfer this collar to another die body gives concern. Following your advice, at least I am not out the $10 return shipping if it fails again. Thanks again

On the 550B, it’s station 1, which resizes, deprimes and then reprimes. Some how the casing got stuck in pretty much the middle and is really locked in the collar.

Thanks for the replies. The carbide collar in the Dillon decap die pulled out of the die and stuck on the 9mm casing. The casing passed the 9mm gauge before I tried to reload that casing, so something went south with the collar.

My 550B deprimer die broke and Dillon seems to be backlogged. Anyone have experience with deprimer dies that are compatible with a Dillon 550B? Thanks

Thanks to all for the comments. I load on a Dillon 550B purchased from Mr. Enos and company, been loading 9mm and 45 acp mostly. In my research on this topic, I saw the comments on the Berry’s and Xtreme website. This prompted my question. The good news is that I found three boxes of factory loaded 44 magnum and three 357 boxes in my gun safe I forgot. The really good news is that I found a Walther PPS in 9mm. Hopefully the Wife doesn’t see this tread because I am thinking about a S&W M&P9 Shield EZ M2.0.

Just loading for target practice and using a lighter load, I was wondering if others have done this. Don’t crimp the casing, make it snug only. Any advice is appreciated and thanks.

Is there a way to visually check which cup size is mounted on a primer slide for a 550B? Seems like I read one is silver and the other is gold tinted but can't find the reference.

Thanks again for replying. OldSchool45, just wondering how you found the punch not seated in the bar? Looks like a set screw on the side of the bar holding the punch in place but not sure what grabs what because something has to let the punch move up. Also, when you adjusted the stop, did you have a process or just trial and error? I have read some that say the stopped cup should be directly under the magazine feed and others say just a little ahead of the feed.

Thanks for all the input. I have checked the primer stop, even looked down the magazine tube with a light and it is right. I have also did the cup height check and it was right from the factory. I have had a spent 45 casing on the top of the follower since the beginning almost, I'll keep the projectile in mind but 40 is about the only caliber I don't have. I think the next time I do a 550B big cleaning process I am going to take the tips off of the different tubes and roll them on a flat surface. Maybe I have an out of round problem, especially the large primer side. I also have noticed that flakes from spent primer punch out seem to fall on the primer slide, whcih may expalin why the problem appears later in the process. With the depriming happening right above the primer slide and the slide pulled back, maybe the very small pieces of a spent primer over time prevent the slide from working right. Or, maybe I just have to expect that in a run of say 100 reloads that I am going to see a few fail to drop the new primer correctly. Sure makes a mess at station two if you don't catch it. I bought a magnet light for a charcoal grill to help focus on the light on the primer slide. Sure sticks to the strong mount nicely. Thanks again....

This was done on a 550B and using Winchester large and small primers.

Did 150 9mm and 150 45 acp using a new box of Winchester large and small primers. Same problem with the dropping of the large primers into the magazine and both large and small had multiple feed problems into the primer cups. Either the primer just failed to drop or on both size primers I would look into the area where the primers were to drop and I would be looking at bottom of the primer, sitting vertical. Checked the cup height and it is within limits on both large and small. So, I am about to do another cleaning process. Seems like a 17 mm brush might work to clean out the small primer tubes, both magazine and pickup. But, on the large tubes, the 17 is really too small and anything larger, the cleaning rod is too big. Anyone have any success with the cleaning of the large primer tubes? Thanks

Thanks for the input. Those who discussed this have seen the NT markings on the case as well. One person stated that WCC brass with a Nato cross is crimped but he found that commercial WCC brass with a date was not, his experience. I have attempted to attach a picture of three casings, all crimped, with the third showing a primer problem caused by not catching the crimp. I have a 550B so if I don't find these crimped casing in a pre-load sort, station one and I have a problem. Thank again.

I was reading on another forum that reloaders are finding crimped primer pockets on their range in Federal and Winchester 9mm casings left on the range. The original post was from Canada and on a range used by local police but others in the United States had also found same when sorting brass. Someone also had some crimped in 40 caliber. I use a range that is also used by local police but have never seen the crimped in 9mm, don't reload 40. Has anyone else seen 9mm with a crimped primer?

Looking for a single gun portable safe that could house a 1911 or S&W model 66 to keep the kids out if they show up unannounced. I looked at the Gunvault nano 300 but it gets mixed reviews. Anyone have a recommendation they would like to share? Thanks

Have to admit I didn't clean the gun out of the box. It did fire better at the range with a few failure to reload. I found the dis-assembly tight so thanks for the tip, will keep an eye on this. I had to Locktite the grip screws on my Kimber Solo because they kept coming loose. Thanks again

Thanks for the replies. For both large and small primed ammo, I used a 1.238 OAL tapered to .4715 at station 4. I am using Brian's best electronic scale to weigh everything. One of the things I do is case gauge and weigh each finished cartridge. The large primer ammo varied by manufacturer as you might expect but most came in around 292 grains, except for the 330 grain one that when I broke down had a 230 grain bullet sent wrong from the supplier. Since all the small primer casings were Federal, I got a fairly consistent 300 grain measure, not what I expected. I need to get a Federal large and small casing to weigh to check this out but it appears that a small primer casing is a bit beefier. Again, thanks for the input and I probably will go to 5 grains in the future...

I had collected a number of small primer 45 ACP casings, mostly Federal. I switched out my primer pick up process on the Dillon 550B and loaded the casings using the same toolhead setup as I had done on large primer 45 ACP casing. I use Winchester 231 at 4.8 grains with Winchester small and large primers, 200 grain plated round nose bullets. Took the ammo to the range yesterday and had no problems with the large primer loads. The small primer casings failed to cycle the Glock 21 most of the time. I had taken only about 30 small primer 45 ACP ammo but am guessing that 90% failed to eject the spent casing. They fired fine as soon as I cleared the spent casing and chambered the next round. I alternated between the two primered ammo and the large went fine but the small would stove pipe most of the time. I can't see that the primer should make a difference on powder load but am seeking other input as this is my first try at loading small primers into a 45 casing. Thanks

I have seen this with my Glock 19 and asked some local Glock shooters. This seems to be a known experience with a Glock and it is the casing being nicked during the ejection process. I get a small, almost triangle like nick that is about 1/16 inches. This causes no problems and is removed by my resizing die. I blamed my shooting low and left on the nick but no one here is buying it. Hope this helps...

I purchased the Sig 1911-22 and have used about 100 rounds before trouble came. It began to fail to cycle on each round. I cleaned the gun and found that there was no slide grease from the factory. Not seen this with any other pistol but am new to Sig. Is this lack of lube on the slide from the factory normal for Sig? Also, the barrel is showing wear about a half inch from the muzzle end on the underside, the bluing was rubbed off. A friend has the same gun and shows the same wear after 700 rounds, not getting more bluing rubbed off after the initial spot. Anyone have a similar experience? Thanks

I purchased a Winchester 23 cubic feet safe and am looking for a dehumidifier like the NRAstore Eva-Dry Dehumidifier. I am looking for advice on these types of devices as the safe is not near a wall socket, so this portable dehimidifier seems like a good compromise. Thanks