BBossman1

Yes... worked perfectly again after deburring and polishing.

Nice! I think anyone using the 1301 could benefit from this just for peace of mind. Took me less than 15 minutes start to finish, most of that time was spent looking for my stone.

This past weekend I experienced the same failure to feed from the tube as y'all are describing. It started after I installed a Nordic +2 on my 1301 Tactical. When I installed it, I elected to use the factory magazine tube spring as it was already a little over 12" past the extended tube. I'll assume its the correct length due to the 1301 Tactical being equipped with a +2 from the factory on the non-importable model (922r blah, blah, blah, which is neither here nor there for this discussion.) This might lead one to believe the problem is too much spring pressure with the additional 2 cartridges for a total of 7, but wait... my Mossberg 930 had the same problem which was solved by polishing the face of the cartridge latch which contacts the shell (I believe that fix is described in one of the many 930 threads). Pulled it apart this morning and took a ceramic stone the the cartridge latch and problem solved. So, theres that to consider.

Actually it screws into the insert (43) they used in place of the Kick Off, which is held on by the stock nut (29&30), which in turn the butt pad (33) screws into.

I don't have the Comp but I do have the Tactical. The stocks are the same except the Tactical has a standard swivel stud, I took it off because I don't use it, simply unscrew it. Looking at a picture of the QD attachment part, seems to me if you stick the correct size Allen key in there and back it out a couple turns it might actually work as designed.

Great minds think alike....I had that same thought yesterday. I removed the Nordic extension and replaced with the factory spring and magazine cap. No luck, same issue.Problem stays the same with a single shell in the tube or a full tube. I field stripped mine last night and looked everything over and have pretty good idea how its supposed to work. Again mine works fine so I can't say definitively why some folks are having problems. But... indulge me and try something out, field strip the gun and leave the trigger group in place, push the carrier stop (the small square silver button at the back of the lifter), this should release the lifter allowing it to pop up. Now try and push down on the lifter, it should move freely for about a 1/16" or so, only being stopped by the cartridge latch. Now, ignore the lifter and push on the bolt release and make sure it moves freely. If neither of these conditions exist, I think thats where the problem lies, a clearance issue. You could send it back to Beretta, of fix it yourself by adding a little clearance and polishing the parts.

Hmm... thats not right. I don't know enough about this thing yet to offer any solution. I like to tinker, maybe if I get a chance, I'll pull the lock work and see if I can determine the exact sequence that has to happen, and then try and make it malfunction, if only for my own education.

I don't own a 1301 Comp since I'm not a competitor, but I do own the Tactical. Moving from a Mossberg 930 SPX, the manual of arms on the 1301 was kind of quirky for me at first. The 1301's are based on Beretta's hunting shotguns, where you start out loading the chamber, then the magazines tube. In order to load the first round into an empty chamber from the magazine, the gun needs to be cocked, bolt closed and, obviously, on safe. You then load the magazine tube with the number of rounds desired and when ready to chamber a round, you then push the carrier stop (the small square silver button at the back of the carrier), this will release a round from the tube onto the carrier. You then pull the charging handle back and let it go, chambering the first round. You can then top off the magazine tube if desired and go to "work". Or... as Ming the Merciless said, throw one in the chamber and close the bolt. Yup interested in this too. Just picked one up today and noticed this issue loading with dummy ammo. It appears to involve the small square button at the aft end of the shell lifter but I am unsure how to use it correctly for pre-load and top-off.

This is an instance where NP3, or better yet Electroless Nickel Boron Nitride would be an ideal application. Plate all of the gas system parts and I bet they would be darn near self cleaning... ETA: I run the rings and piston dry; I put some lube on my finger and wipe the piston bore in the barrel. This seems to help considerably in cutting down on carbon build up under the rings.

Not a competition shooter, but you guys know how to drive equipment to its limits, so I'll stick around and see what breaks. BBossman1

Does that extra layer of rubber come off the stock? I am a small guy and that looks really long. On the Choate pistol grip stock there is a 5/8" spacer between the stock and the recoil pad. It is removable, but its there to clear the return spring housing. I replaced the recoil pad with the much shorter 1/2" Choate recoil pad, knocks almost an inch off of the LOP. The 1/2' pad doesn't do much to mitigate recoil... My next plan is to cut the threads deeper on to the the return spring housing so I can lose the stock nut spacer, shorten the housing and lose the stock spacer and return the larger recoil pad to the stock. eta: I don't have enough posts to link pictures...

This can happen when you don't push the bolt release fully, especially when the gun is new.