RH45
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Posts posted by RH45
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On 2/5/2024 at 7:31 PM, Toolguy said:
You could still swap out a whole hammer to see how it does. Nothing to lose.
Toolguy,
Could you please P.M. or email me, when you get time?
I have a question, and TRIED to contact you via your profile, but apparently doing something wrong
Thanks!
Randy
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On 6/23/2023 at 3:32 PM, jellyb said:
what is your oal?
If memory serves about 1.2"
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I gave ICORE a try, a couple of weeks ago with a 17-4 and HKS speed loaders.
I found that rimfire isn’t heavy enough to want to drop in the cylinder, and I had one popper, that activated a swinger that refused to go down. I knew when I went that I was going to have last place all locked up, but was surprised that on a few stages I wasn’t last.
Now, I have a Chiappa Rhino in 40 on the way.
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On 6/3/2023 at 5:31 PM, jellyb said:
N320
Using 3.6 grains behind a Zero 180 grain jhp was my IDPA ESP load, out of my STI Eagle made about 130pf, and softer than 9mm
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On 2/1/2023 at 12:41 PM, gargoil66 said:
Mike:
You misunderstand me here. Was saying that if the 929 has a .357 barrel, then using factory loaded 9mm with a .355 bullet probably won't give good performance.
You 'pull / push' a pistol cartridge? Do it with rifle ammo but not pistol ammo.
GG
A few years ago, I ordered some 160 grain, 9mm bullets from BBI, and paid a little extra to have them sized to.357, but found that I could only load them in Federal brass and still get them to case gauge
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On 1/27/2023 at 12:27 PM, revoman said:
I will second that
I’ve found that Sport Pistol works as well as 320, for lead, or coated but, half the price.
IF you can find any. Lucky for me, I bought some before COVID. Unfortunately, I was waiting for Black Friday specials to stock up on primers, but COVID screwed that up for me
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I’ve found, over the years that the best thing for ME is to put a small piece of scotch tape on the top of the left lens of my glasses, it forces me to use my right eye only. I tried a lot of different things, over the years and I believe that I actually got the idea from Brian Enos. He’s cross eyed dominant too
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On 2/21/2023 at 7:50 AM, 71Commander said:
I don't think that there is a red dot that can withstand the punishment on a slide mount on a 40. My SRO had to be replaced mounted on a 9. If they go 40, there will need to be a frame mount.
I have an open gun that has the slide lightened similar to a Beretta 92, which threw enough crap on my C-more that I had to clean the lens every stage because I am right handed and left eye dominant, and have to see the target through the sight. I took off the C-more and had the rear of the slide machined, drilled and tapped. I think I went through 4 different sights that didn’t last 2 matches before I gave up and put the C-more back on
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1 hour ago, CO3Gunner said:
Lots of magazine discussions, so thought I would add my 2-cents.
Here is what works for me with magazines and related:
- Remove the last round bolt hold open tab.
- Lightly sand down the bottom corners and edges of the follower.
- For 19-round magazines, loosen the magazine body connector and then retighten, but not too tight, use Blue Locktite. Sometimes they come too tight from the factory, causing the follower to catch.
- Steps #1, #2 and #3 help the follower move freely up and down the long banana of the magazine body!
- I put skateboard tap on the outside mags and cover the slots to prevent dust/dirt from getting in. The extra grip helps seat the magazine into place with hot, sweaty hands, especially on a closed bolt.
- If needed, lightly file down the front lips of the magazine and/or the rear corners of the mouth. On some mags, the bolt will hit/graze the top of the magazine (you will see bright metal on the magazine as evidence, if it is occurring). It will wear down eventually, but in the meantime can cause various malfunctions (e.g., double feeds, etc.)
- A few times a year, use spray graphite lubricant on the inside of magazine body. Disassemble first, of course! Give it ample time to dry before reassembling (about 15-20 minutes, just follow directions on the can).
- Once a month or so, depending on conditions, disassemble the magazine and run a microfiber cloth through the body. I find a one-piece cleaning rod useful for pushing the cloth through the body. If you drop a mag in the dirt, do this at the range before your next stage! It is easy for fine dust or grit to get between the follower and the mag body, causing all many of problems.
- Once a month or so and on older mags, I will gently stretch the springs out a bit and put them back in. Replace the springs after a year or so.
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Replace the plastic end plates with metal ones. If you drop them just the right way and the bottom of the magazine hits something hard (i.e., a rock, hard floor, etc.), the plastic bottom will crack. Worse, it can simply fail resulting in 19 shot shells flying out the bottom propelled by spring tension. It is spectacularly funny to watch, but not so good for your stage time
. I prefer Taylor Freelance magazine extensions. In addition to removing a risk of failure, the heavier extension also helps the mag drop freely when performing a mag change.
- Replace the stock magazine release spring with a lighter weight spring from A3G Munitions. They offer replacements in light, medium and heavy. Medium works great for me. I suppose you can clip a few coils, but for ~$5 it is worth the peace of mind having the A3G spring: https://www.a3gmunitions.com/product/a3gmunitions-magazine-release-spring-for-rock-island-armory-vr80/
Hope that all helps, and I am sure others can add to this list.
Thanks for the information
I’ll have to get some springs coming.
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20 hours ago, gerritm said:
We just use the regular 2011 brush and go in from both ends. I have seen guys use the long house type dusters off Amazon.
In my reliability quest, I shot a 3-gun match last Saturday. Very dusty & dry roadways to the bays. Used a gun sock to keep it covered and changed to Otis Dry Lube instead of my normal Mobil 1 oil or WD40 Teflon dry lube. Only about 50 rounds total, but it ran perfect with no problems. Used the Otis to lube the inside of the mags, also.
gerritm
I was generally running graphite in magazines, but it’s messy. Saw some aerosol graphite, that is supposed to dry, but haven’t tried it. I was never impressed with silicone. I’ll have to try some of the Otis stuff.
Is anyone cutting the springs for the magazine release? I wouldn’t want it light enough that I would lose a magazine while shooting, but I really struggle to get the magazine release to push.
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1 hour ago, gerritm said:
We just use the regular 2011 brush and go in from both ends. I have seen guys use the long house type dusters off Amazon.
In my reliability quest, I shot a 3-gun match last Saturday. Very dusty & dry roadways to the bays. Used a gun sock to keep it covered and changed to Otis Dry Lube instead of my normal Mobil 1 oil or WD40 Teflon dry lube. Only about 50 rounds total, but it ran perfect with no problems. Used the Otis to lube the inside of the mags, also.
gerritm
Thanks
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My brushes for cleaning 2011 magazines works fine for 5, and 10 round magazines, but, not so much on the longer magazines.
What are you guys using to clean the 15s and 19s?
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1 hour ago, robertg5322 said:
Whole gun is Turkish.
Not defending Turkish guns, but mine runs great, and the sights, cheap as they are work fine.
Curious if there are any really high round count guns out there, and how do the owners like them.
According to what I read on the VR80 Facebook page, some have 10k.
I know that it’s a lot less than a lot of old Remingtons, it’s not much, but at my age, I doubt that both of my 3-gun shotguns, put together won’t get that
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2 hours ago, RH45 said:
I got a VR80 from a friend that bought it a couple of years ago and I don’t think he even put a full box of shells through it, as a backup for my Firebird.
I took it all apart, opened up the gas ports, cleaned and lubed everything. I think I have an extra Holosun 510, but first I was going to zero the irons with slugs because I’ve seen every brand of optic fail.
I really feel stupid because I don’t know what the trick is to flip the sights up, and if there’s a trick to locking them back down.
Can someone help me out?
Thanks!
Apparently I was overthinking things. They just flip up. Nothing to keep them locked.
I guess I forgot that they’re Turkish, and not the highest quality.
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I got a VR80 from a friend that bought it a couple of years ago and I don’t think he even put a full box of shells through it, as a backup for my Firebird.
I took it all apart, opened up the gas ports, cleaned and lubed everything. I think I have an extra Holosun 510, but first I was going to zero the irons with slugs because I’ve seen every brand of optic fail.
I really feel stupid because I don’t know what the trick is to flip the sights up, and if there’s a trick to locking them back down.
Can someone help me out?
Thanks!
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2 minutes ago, fireman1776 said:
In an email from KKM after I inquired about their barrels.
I’m pretty sure that’s shot out of a fixture. I’d be surprised if it does better than 2” at 25 yards, unless it’s oversized, and has to be fitted
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10 minutes ago, Rich406 said:
The original x5 never had an lci barrel, no matter the color. The x5 legion had a lci barrel for the first 6 months or so.
My mistake
I thought that the original, silver barrels were different.
Although they don’t shoot nearly as accurate as my old STIs, the two I own are the most accurate, factory, striker fired pistols that I have ever shot. My M&P Pro, with the gunsmith fit Apex barrel isn’t much more accurate.
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4 hours ago, Rich406 said:
The original X5 didn’t come with a lci barrel
I believe you are referring to the silver barrels from their 1st generation. Then, they went to the black/blued ones, which is what both of mine are.
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3 minutes ago, Boomstick303 said:
You had some exceptional X5s then. My regular X5s did not shoot those groups at 25 yds.
There is a caveat to this. They were never shot in stock form at these distances. Always changed out the recoil spring and the guide rod. So maybe this could possibly create some inaccuracy?
LCI barrels or non LCI barrels with your regular X5s?
I switched both to guide rods. I think one is a “fat” rod, and the other is tungsten. I believe LCI
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1 hour ago, Boomstick303 said:
In testing I did not find my X5 any better or worse than the Legion versions. I have two X5s.
I would think that there has to be some decent shooting Leigons out there.
Both of my regular Xfives will group just a hair over an inch, at 25 yards with 124 gr jhps and VV320
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16 minutes ago, ddc said:
Maybe. But you're obviously not the first person to bitch about the Legion.
Kind of glad now that I stuck with the original X5.
+1
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I ran my Trojan 40 single stack for ESP a few times.
A LOT easier to make a mag change with my Eagle, compared to the single stack
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On 9/8/2021 at 3:25 PM, Jim Watson said:
That simplifies things a lot.
Based on my experience with a 2011 in IDPA ESP, a set of plugged magazines would be a help; I found it easy to lose count and have too many or too few rounds.
I used to run an Eagle.40 for ESP, and milled the sides of a STI stainless magwell. I haven’t shot it in a while because between my eyes and hands getting bad.
Even though I’m an S.O. every State match I shot with that pistol, I had to prove several times that it fit in the “box”.
I was running a 45 Eagle for CDP for a while too.
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18 minutes ago, fireman1776 said:
I think this whole thread begs the question of how much accuracy is good enough for USPSA. The correct answer is probably, "as much as I can get". But we have to balance the cost, at least most of us do. Is 3" at 25 yards good enough for USPSA? I think so. But it's a subjective answer.
I don’t shoot carry optics for USPSA because I have 2 perfectly good open guns, but I did classify in carry optics.
Most of the stock, plastic guns I’ve shot would easily be under 3” at 25 yards, but, I did have one M&P that was pretty horrible. If I remember correctly, depending on the load, 6-12” at 25 yards.
What is the best ultrasonic solution to clean the comp?
in Open Pistols
Posted
I also only use jhps for open, but still get carbon. I found that if you spray a comp with some anti spatter for welding or case lube, for reloading it helps a little bit from building up