tkheard

@Wayne - Was your comment about not being competitive in open made toward the Gen 1 Glock, or towards open Glocks in general?

For me, shooting single-stack and production, my support had almost always comes off -- because I'm doing g a mag change!

Seating always firm and gentle.

How about using your support hand for the safety? I end up doing that on my 1911 when I didn't get it off earlier.

Thanks for posting this. I see lots of things to work on. He's awesome and older than me!

I have great distance vision, astigmatism, and my arms have gotten very short. I wear bifocals (progressive) full time. My optometrist adjusted my dominant eye to have my reading prescription less 1 diopter in the main lens so I can focus on the front sight. The readings lens has an adjustment so it is full strength. The non-dominant is like my regular glasses. I have insert lenses for my Rudys with lined bifocals. I love them. When I first put them on, I'm a little wobbly for about a minute and then the brain adjusts to them. The doc told me that he's done a similar set for the sheriff. I couldn't be happier. Well, if I could shoot faster, it would be great, but glasses won't help that...

Green is usually for seating bearings. Red is way hi temp.

I'd use red loctite instead of green...

Dillon section is where it show up for me. *And* I don't do glocktalk. Ever. I'm beginning to think it is a "feature" of Tapatalk.

I'm getting an ad for the truck that shows up every few days. I'm reading via tapatalk; maybe that's why I see it.

It shows up every couple of days...

I've felt your pain...

I am quite farsighted and have used reading glasses for 40 years. In my last eye visit, I mentioned that I was having trouble with front sight focus. I can see the target just fine, but the sights are a blur. My doc suggested a 1.5 diopter add in the dominant eye main lens. He said he's been doing it for a couple of sheriff's deputies for a while. I was concerned that I'd have difficulty moving around, but I have to say it takes only about a minute for my brain to figure out how to deal with it. I love being able to see the front sight clearly.

First thing I did was to disconnect the Operating Rod so I could move the primer slide by hand. There were two sticky spots: one just forward of the primer pickup point (the worst) and the other about halfway through the travel of the primer slide. Pulled the bolts and found all sorts of grunge on the slide. I cleaned all the crud up and re-polished the slide and track. Reassembled and it works like it's supposed to. Now all I have to do is figure out where the gunk came from. Thanks for your suggestions. This really was pilot error.

It's definitely not the rod. It falls free and can be a real pain. The suggestion of making sure the bar is free moving is where I'll start. It seemed so simple... I'll post what I find.

OK, I must have done something dumb, but I don't know what it was. When I changed from the small primer bar after loading 9mm to large for 45ACP, I decided I should do the clean and polish thing before installing. Alcohol wiped the area and plastic and then polished the bottom of the primer bar with a scotchbrite. Installed it and it's horrible. The bar sticks so much that the return spring doesn't have enough oomph to pull it back. I had to use my left thumb to push it back past the sticky spot. I've got the bolts so loose that alignment with the hole in the ram sometimes doesn't match. I thought about adding some lubricant (like graphite), but wasn't convinced that it wouldn't be worse. What'd I do wrong or leave out? I'm stumped...

It's a great machine. Had mine about a year also and load 9 & 45; easy changeover, rock-solid performance. Enjoy.

+1

I think you can have a 550 as your only press. Seems like that's what you had before.

My wife has always been left eye dominant. Microscope, camera, telescope, etc. She's always been right handed. Thirty years ago, she had an accident that had her right hand immobilized for 6 weeks. She was a PhD student working in a lab and attending classes, so she taught herself to write left-handed. When she took up shooting, she had trouble with the cross dominance/handedness and decided to try it left handed. Her experience was like yours Kmaultsby, nice tight group where she wanted it. It has spawned a lot of conversation in our house. At this point, we're pretty convinced that she should have been left-handed. She's also changed over to left-handed when fly fishing; it was an amazing change.

Why didn't I think of that?

I've looked through the archives and haven't found this topic, so I'm going to guess that the answer is 'No'. I pick-up brass from our range whatever gets left behind. I'm steadily growing my SPP 45ACP inventory. I'd guess it's about 2/3 the size of the LP collection. Can SP brass be reamed out to LP and be safe?

THis may be a silly noob question. I am fairly new to reloading and have a 550 set up for 9mm and 45ACP. There's a guy in our club that shoots 45ACP. His brass is always left behind. He's using military ammo with crimped primer pockets. What does it take to remove the crimp and be able to use it for reloading? Is it worthwhile to use this stuff? Thanks for your information and thoughts.

Out of 100 45ACP, I had two "crooked" primers and one flipped primer. I think the crooked ones are about shell plate alignment. I'm guessing that the ball isn't centered in its detent, but off-center in the direction of rotation. I'm pretty sure the tension on the shell plate is about as good as it gets. As far the two shells, I can pop the primers out and re-use them. The flipped one has me stumped. I am absolutely sure that they were all faced the same way (shiny up) when I picked them up with the pickup tube. Somehow, one decided to flip. I can live with that, I suppose. I didn't discover this one until I was inspecting the completed cartridges. I've pulled the bullet & recycled the powder. Any safe way to get that backwards primer out? Thanks. Tom

I have a 550B. I have a Craftsman 4-drawer rolling tool chest. I built up the top with 1-1/2" of plywood and set nut plates in it. Only challenge was finding an appropriate length screw since I didn't want to drill the top. The wheel locks seem to do a good job for me; chocks for the wheels would be better. The drawers give me places to keep supplies, tools, and parts. I mounted my toolhead holder on the back corner for the set not in use. Works well for me, but I'm still a noob at this.