Norther

I don't dryfire it a lot, but I do it some, and haven't noticed any damage. I do get a few light hits with my 17# ms, but not many, and I do only shoot the cheapest of ammo (side note--CCI Blaser leads my barrel badly. This is the only gun I've had that problem). Actually, I figure the "light hits" are really misfires due to cheap ammo, not the gun. If you get misfires with a 23# mainspring, I'd say something else is the problem.

I don't think the stock mainspring is a standard spring. I swapped out the mainspring housing and am running a 17# spring in mine.

I took my 9 yo daughter and 6 yo son to the range today. After a bit of shooting with their usual .22 single shots, I turned them loose with my shorty AR-15 with the .22 conversion in it. They wouldn't leave until we ran out of ammo. I think we went through 700-800 rounds. I guess I better go get an M&P15-22. I like the telescoping stocks for young shooters--even the "youth" model rifles are considerably too long for a 6 year old. Very gratifying to see them enjoying shooting so much.

I always try to make thge stages challenging. I tell the complainers that they can always step up and design the stages for next month...

Doesn't sound very reliable, or at least not with lighter loads. Did it seem well-built?

Anybody know anything about these? Curious to know if they work, and are well-built or not. They look interesting.

Either some of you don't shoot much or you have a lot more time to reload than I do. I sort mixed range brass by caliber, in the process hopefully catching the odd split case or those filled with mud, run it through the tumbler and into the feeder it goes. A few press stoppages result (a 9mm stuck in the .45, or those pesky small primer pocket .45, etc) but not many. I gauge all match ammo, including local matches, in EGW 7 round gauges, which I find are tighter than my chamber. Just about all I fail feed perfectly in practice. I don't bother gauging practice ammo, I'd never go shoot because of the time and bother involved.

I have a couple of 47Ds I used in my Springfield and a S&W. I didn't have any problem seating with 8 rounds loaded; didn't even notice a difference in seating effort when I switched to ETMs. I only quit using them when I bought a pile of ETMs. I

I'm just now getting around to working up a load for my 6" 2011, using Titegroup and Montana Gold 165 JHPs. For some reason only standard length loads are reliable, 1.125". I can't get anything longer to run more than about 95%. I am going to replace all my mag springs and put in a new 12.5# recoil spring, and try it again, but I think I may end up using standard loads. Is there any reason to load long if your gun runs perfectly on standard length loads?

I won an XDm that I shot for awhile, but sold it and bought a M2i 2011 off the forum here. I had a ton of ammo loaded to 1.125" for the XDm left, and it's shooting flawlessly. My mags are not tuned.

You can't compare barrel lengths between semis and revolvers, unless you measure from the breach face to the muzzle--including the cylinder in the measurement. So a 5" revolver has a longer barrel length than a 6" 1911. Not answering the poll, because my 625 is a 4", and I rarely shoot IDPA.

Doesn't seem worth it. With similar case wall thickness, case capacity would be the same. Maybe just buy some Starline .45 Super brass and try some warmer loads. Another thing to consider, hot loads will likely shoot differently, requiring you to adjust your sights between loads. Best to just get a second gun

15 round mags? Must not be Kimber. What are they? Fast mag changes aren't important in Steel Challenge.

"The video you are trying to view is unavailable"--what'd they do, pull it off?

My kydex holster for my 625 is a Comp-Tac. I like it.

The difference between 9mm and .22 is a lot smaller than that between .22 and .45, which is what I shoot. Plus, I "needed" the .22 anyway to compete in the local rimfire steel match...

Great post miniuzi! Thanks for the info.

Protocall for sure. All others are too wide. I don't like the .125" width anymore.

I have shot 2 625s. One is a Mountain Gun, with a lightweight barrel, and the other has a full lug barrel. Both 4". With equivalent loads, I'd say the difference is quite noticeable. The standard weight short lug barrel would fall between the two. I'm sure with practice it's something you could work with though.

You use the no-gap basepads, but not the no-gap magwell? Why didn't you just get the gap basepads? With the front of the no-gap pads cut so far back, are you at all concerned about over-inserting the mag on a slidelock reload? I'm asking because I have a bunch of ETMs with no-gap pads, and would rather not swap pads all the time for different 1911s. I like the Dawson pads. I checked my Trophy Match in the USPSA box, and there is a little bit of room. I'm contemplating gluing a rubber pad to the bottom to cushion them a little from the concrete floor of the indoor range. It would have to be thin, like a piece of bicycle innertube or something.

I saw that too, but it's not true. I put in a flat MS housing on mine, and since I had a good quality lightweight hammer/sear/disconnector set laying around, I swapped that in too. Trigger was vastly improved, but I had a lot of light hits. I figured the lightweight trigger parts and the stock MS didn't go together, and put in a 17 lb (IRC). Now I still get a few light hits on cheap CCI Blazers, but that might be the ammo. Think I'll try an 18 lb before the steel matches start up for the summer.

I have the Sig. It's identical to the GSG. Cheaply made, works good, much more reliable than my Kimber conversion. Uses mostly standard 1911 parts, which is good because upgrades are needed on some things--sights (Novak cut), MS housing, etc.

Seems like I just read about this in my USPSA rulebook, but I can't find it now. No lock is good for USPSA, can't say for IDPA. I would like to know, as I want my 625 to be legal for both.

That's really interesting. I like the NMountain holders for IDPA, but never would have thought of the magnetic variation.

My TM has a heavy trigger too, but rather than replace trigger parts (except the trigger itself), I just put in a new sear spring and tweaked it down to around a 3.25 # pull. Not as crisp or as light as I'd like, but it works for now. The factory adjustable rear works for me, but I did put a Dawson on the front.