PkSpawn

That Mark7 looks pretty nice.. But that price!! Will they sell it without the pretty computer screen? LoL I've been looking at the ammobot since it also doesn't really modify the press and it appears I will still be able to load all rifle cases since the stroke isn't shortened like it seems with the forcht setup. So far my biggest con with the ammobot is the noise. The handle moving around could be dealt with by either cutting it down or somehow modifing it if I needed to. But I also like the ability to use the press without the motor on. Biggest problem now is I need to gain 6" of space by either cutting the legs off my bench or making a shorter bench just for the press since I am limited with overhead space.. Already cut down the press a few inches to fit the bulletfeeder. Anyone else have any experience with the ammobot? Ammobot MK1 Or see possible problems with that setup? Noise was another thing I noticed about it.

FIXED.. over 1000 loaded no primers smashed, no more broken rods. I am now shopping for a motor to put on this. Almost positive the reason the second rod broke was because it was adjust up very high and the deprime pin had broken and it tried to swag a primed case. Resolved the deprime station issues and adjust the swag a little lower as previously suggested. Been smooth sailing ever since, and I'm back to enjoying reloading more than shooting.

Loaded up almost 300 with no issues. Started to load up some this afternoon. And when I was finished noticed 1 primer smashed. I went and looked at the swag rod to see if it loosened up, and it was busted. Oddly enough I never noticed it break, or have a hard pull on the press handle. The first time I broke it, I knew I did something wrong. Not sure how it broke this time around. Unfortunately or fortunately, I had ordered 3 replacement swag rods. Wondering if there is something else not aligning or out of adjustment. The only thing I changed before this last run was I shortened up the case feeder.

With the setup of the pictures posted above. Not a single issue. I cranked out the rounds as fast as I could pull the handle. I only loaded 100 rounds, as I need to chrono them before doing a bigger run. But no smashed primers. I only had 1 round with a bullet upside down and I am doubting that was the fault of the priming system .. In the past I would see 1-2 rounds with messed up primers per 100.. The shoulder of the swag rod was just touching the bottom of the brass. I figured when all the stations are full, it would be spaced a little further away. I might try backing it off a touch. But getting a 100 rounds with no wasted primers has me not wanting to change anything.. I think it was multiple things not set correct, the white tab, blue plastic on the primer tube worn out/damaged, and the swag rod adjustment. Thank you everyone for your guidance. Just wish I would have sought help on this issue much sooner.

Swag rod got here this afternoon. And of course I ran to the press and installed it.. Here is how it is setup. Before and After To me, it does not seem like it is removing the crimp all the way around the primer pocket. I haven't tried priming yet..

Oddly enough I mainly use CCI primers. The picture above is with Federal primers. Spoke to dillon, first thing they questioned was if I was using CCI or winchester primers. I use winchester small rifle primers for 223, and I don't recall having any issues.. Then asked if I was setting the white tab correctly. Dillon gave me the impression they believe it is components and not equipment since it was only happening a couple times out of every 100. I have no plans to switch to different primers. I'm not accepting that answer.. I believe it has been a combination of things. Not having the white tab set properly, possibly not swaging enough and the blue tip on the primer tube was certainly due to be replaced. I ordered replacement swag rods from different locations, hopefully one will get here quickly. Once I can get this machine running smoothly by hand. I'm sending it out for that rotary drive so I can have a whole list of new problems .

I'll give Dillon a call tomorrow and see what they say about the primer slide. thanks for the additional suggestions.

Going to change out the plastic tip on the primer tube when I get the swag bar in.. The press is about 2 years old, maybe 2.5 now. So not very old. I hope its not the slide, that is 80$, LoL But if it fixes it.. Now sure what would go bad on it, unless the primer hole is out of tolerance. Beastly, I slowed down a lot, with the bullet feeder, I was at a rate of 500 an hour. I saw about the same amount of failures as I did when I was cranking out 850-900/hour without the bullet feeder. Really hoping it is just the combined white plastic and swag rod adjustment. RonofVa posted prob the best picture I have seen on setting it up properly.

Raybar, What do you mean too low? The problem existed prior, but I did recently install the shellplate bearing and plastic detent ball upgrade. I do have the shellplate tightened down with no flex/wiggle room. Actually started seeing better consistency on the OAL Not sure how I would raise the shellplate without having it loose.

I adjusted the white tab tight against a piece of brass and business card. Ran about 75 pieces through and got 2 smashed primers.. But I am not swaging since I need to order a new rod. So need to wait until that comes in and hopefully I can get a thousand rounds loaded with no primer issues. I've already fixed the old primer not coming out. Had to take a file to the dillon decapping pins.

At one time I thought it was something to do with the primer tube and was somehow messing up when I was reloading primers. I had set the primer warning to go off earlier so there were more primers in the tube when I refilled it. Just thought it had something to do with the new primers bouncing around in there. I do use the cut up piece of brass to adjust the swag normally, then take a crimped piece of brass and confirm the setting. At first i really didn't know what a swaged piece of brass was supposed to look like. But I was getting them like the picture Jmorris posted in the linked thread where the crimp is gone and rounded off. Even then I was getting the occasional smashed primer. I never played around adjusting the white plastic piece. I think at one time when I had a jam I removed it, but when I reset it, I adjusted it tight against the piece of brass. I will readjust that using a card to gap it from the brass. Wasn't Dillon making some type of upgrade/spring loaded system for this to make it easier to clear brass from the priming station? Thought I read that here on the forums. I think the plastic tab on the end of the primer tube should be fine, but that is an easy and inexpensive piece to replace just in case.

I've read some of this thread. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=169411&hl=1050%20primer&page=3 but didn't want to revive a zombie thread. Not sure if I am having the same issue or not. Of course today I did snap the swag rod, but I've had this problem from day 1 when I got the press with the primer system. Initially it was not priming 1-2 cases per 100, and would drop the primer on the bench. I later solved that issue I think by replacing the rubber piece on the primer slide. Now my problem has been the smashed primers into the pockets as seen below Is this all being cause by not swaging enough? Once I upped the swag rod a bit more, that is when it snapped.. It is a little frustrating since I bought the 1050 when I got pissed at my hornady LNL having priming problems and hoped for this to solve everything.

Here is a Gen 4 G35 with the Dawson Ice magwell and the SJC funnel.. It is huge compared to the dawson.

Have you tried Trailboss in the dillon powder measures? I just loaded up about 2500 38specials with trailboss on a 1050 and the powder drop seemed pretty consistent with what I have seen in other powders. I think I was seeing maybe .3 -difference over 10 drops

I just played around with this after reading your topic. I put the rt1200 and an RCBS decap/sizing die on the 550. I only used 1 pin to secure the toolhead, that seemed to work fine, no alignment issues. But I only ran through about a dozen or so pieces. The forces are up and down, so I doubt it would slide out or move with at least 1 pin in. I'm not familiar with the M die. From my understanding it is used to flare the neck cause the trim die makes it so small/tight. Since the brass is already processed, why couldn't you use the M die on station 1 of the 650? , M die, powder, seater, crimp. (not famliar with the 650).