strikeraj

Thanks everyone for your input I am getting a clear picture now

There WAS quite a bit of metal removed down the flanks. The extractor usually sits flush in the factory slide. Mine definitely stands out from the sides. Near the bottom edge of the slide, where it meets the frame, it is still full thickness. JeffWard Would you mind to say what the width across the flanks on your slide is right now?

down and definitely a lot of comps work better with more gas

here is a quote from Randy on m4carbine forum posted on AUG 28 2012

Hi all If I am having the optic mounted on the slide, does the slide to frame fit affect the accuracy? in other words, if i put a red dot on m&p, will i get accurate result if i fit the barrel to slide, but not slide to frame? Thanks, Tom

in your situation u can try using a lighter striker spring, that will solve the not going into battery issue

have u tried just replacing with a new stock striker spring? after a year it might just be the spring wearing out

Got my first RTS in March on a 9mm Major Flashcat, it lasted about 400 rounds glass cracked, I called Limcat Johnny replaced it Immediately, Couple thousand rounds later I changed the battery and a silver disk fell out of the battery tray, I called C-More they said its needs to be soldered in place ask me to send it in at my expense they replaced Electronics & installed new battery had it back overnight. A few thousand rounds later I noticed two lock screws working their way out that were NOT VISIBLE, before, called C-More they said when they fixed it they must have forgot to apply black silicone to keep them in place..I applied silicone myself. Today I went to the range and noticed the intensity slide switch no longer works in the auto mode only works in the manual setting it's now off or in full bright bright mode, I'll call C-More tomorrow Thats been my experience with the RTS I'll keep you posted.. is the cmore mounted on slide or frame? Thanks

just google it and burwell has a nice ppt slide teaching how to do your own

OT but looks like you have a bright pixel on your camera

just remember if u want to have reliable return to battery with a light recoil spring, u need to use a light striker spring as well then of course.... federal primers help with solving light strikes

i use 3.4gr titegroup with zeros 147 jhp makes about 135 in m&p pro

Thanks. But the RTS is a bit different because it has a built in weaver rail Yea, i am just wondering if someone knows the rear end of the slide well and can say if there is enough room to do the cutting for the rail

Hi All As title says, is it possible to cut for c-more RTS on the M&P slide or has anyone done that? Cheers Tom

+1 for Bobby Carver. He's got a ton of different parts no matter which direction you decide to take this. Great customer service as well. Keep us posted on your build! Lol, I talked to Bob on the phone last week about a comp they have and shipping him a sample of our custom oil .... we shared a few ideas about firearms but, really didn't talk much about my build. I was under the impression that he was doing a lot of Glock work (not M&P). Maybe I need to call him back to pick his brain. When you say Combo kit, what were you referring to as I just looked at his website and it had nothing about M&P stuff... just Glock? Thanks Bc He has a combo kit for M&P including comp, threaded barrel, captured guide rod and spring

I have the glock lightened striker spring from glockworx and 13lb ISMI recoil spring and federal primer. never had a light strike

sorry to interrupt but has anyone have any experience with the burris FF III? the addition of switch and top open battery bay sounds good to me is this sight reliable mounted on the slide?

i hope you don't mind me adding a question in your thread what is the grouping at 25 yards with m&p open builds? I would appreciate if the build can be listed with the data (esp. barrel, comp and load) Thanks in advance

What rule changes would have made you decide whether or not to shoot the M&P Open Gun? The change from power factor scoring to time plus scoring rules out having to make major so shooting the M&P in minor will not be a disadvantage Do you see any performance differences between the open STI and the open M&P gun? And why did you switch to the M&P for an open gun? An STI open gun is still the way to go for Open pistol shooting because of many reasons including the weight makes it flatter and softer. The reason I switched to the M&P for Open Multigun is because it has no safeties that I will have to worry about engaging before dumping it as well as not worrying about the safety being knocked off after being dumped. I also got the Blade Tech WRS holster and remolded the front to accept the comp, so now I have a very fast holster with a hood to secure the gun so there are NO possibilities of it ever coming out accidentally. And yes the hood is tall enough that it rotates far enough out of the way to clear the Deltapoint If I like the slide mounted DP on my open gun, I'll probably put one my on my self-defense 45. Every couple of years, I get interested in the slide mounted dot. It finally seems like the improvement in mini-red dot reliability has made the slide mount a viable option for both competition and self-defense. That is a really nice M&P open build. Hope u won't mind a couple of questions since I am currently shooting a m&p pro 9mm and thinking to build an open in the future (hack, ur build is basically the same I have on my list LOL) 1. How does this gun group? What is the load that you use? 2. What spring are you running in it and have u swapped the guiderod to a tungsten one? Thanks in advance

I can probably add a little info here about it myself. I've pretty much put this project on the back burner once I got my 9Major shorty from Shay from AKAI, but Like most I started off with a Mini RDS mounted to the M&P 9pro slide and a Storm lake ported barrel. Then I picked up the Carver comp with a KKM threaded barrel. I can tell you with the carver comp it will not run minor pf ammo with the standard guide rod and spring, I had to get a 13lbs recoil spring to get it to run but it wasn't 100%, but after I bumped the PF to around 145 the gun runs nice and flat. I did a little a bit of tuning on the ejector so it wouldn't spit the empty brass back at the reddot. You can run the OEM spring and rod to shoot Major loads, but I got to admit its pretty violent compared to a full blown open race gun. This probably why you don't see alot of Glock open guns shooting major. Thank you for your reply. May I ask how the craver comp compares to the ported stormlake barrel? if I am getting a threaded barrel, do u recommend the KKM or stormlake one? Currently I have a full length tungsten guide rod and 13lb spring on it. Btw which RDS do you have on your slide? How do u like it?

Gary, Randy would be the best person to explain his solution. He told me that it was similar to a problem that existed wth 1911's. What he did (among other things) was to mill the rear right side of the exection port. Thanks for the info on the Carver Comp. I'll order one today from Kenny & add it to our comp test. I care mostly about functionality but It'll be nice to have a comp that's more esthetically pleasing to choose from. In the end, I'll go with whichever shoots flattest. I also find it interesting that Carver's web site mentions M&P optic mounting systems coming soon. I believe that the M&P FS will become the entry level open gun in the next couple of years. Hi Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but I own an M&P Pro right now shooting in standard minor (or limited in USPSA term) and I am very much interested in converting to open to give it a try. I am just wondering what result you are getting with the new carver comp? cause i do like my gun to look as nice as it shoots lol Thanks, Tom

sorry for bumping old post but.... looks there is room to get the scope even closer to teh slide.... may be a custom 90 deg mount for czechmate?