doc88
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Posts posted by doc88
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Terminus Zeus has become very popular on the other rifle forums and resale is probably better than the others listed. Bighorn has it's following as well. I have Defiance in various configurations on most of my rifles depending on use. All will do well with a CM but think about resale value if you ever plan to move it.
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I think this is a situation where muzzle awareness and trigger finger awareness are important. I have fallen a couple times in matches in mud or loose rock and all I can remember is as I was falling to keep the muzzle down range and trigger finger out of the trigger guard. That way you can get back up and keep shooting.
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I replaced both of my SV ambi's on my SV guns after they broke with Lonestar Innovations safeties. They have a lifetime guarantee and the notch under left side safety makes it easier to remove.
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I would agree that clear lenses would be best for indoor regardless of fiber color. However, racing red and green FO is a great combo outside on a sunny day. Cloudy day go back to a clear lens.
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I used to use Ghost until the retention got sloppy in them and all my mags fell out while running through a stage. I use DAA exclusively now. the SS ones, the plastic racers for production and the aluminum racers for limited. The Aluminum mag pouches are top notch and a little more expensive.
Bullets out or forward is personal preference. I used to go bullets out in production but didn't like it for SS so I went back to bullets forward for everything.
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I'd say it depends on the barrel. Most custom barrel manufacturers say break in is not necessary as their barrels are hand lapped and most of the roughness is removed. Factory barrels ie. Remington, Browning etc may need some break in to prevent excess copper build up as their rifleing is going to be much rougher.
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This is what I've done with WSP's . May or may not work for you. First I don't use the top that you pour the primers through. It limits the vibration plus I can make adjustments on the go without it. I pour the primers out of the box into a Tupperware of some kind and then into the RF. I use the "A" plastic top piece which is suppose to have a little larger opening and is really for large primers. Adjust the opening so some of the primers are going through and some are falling out even if they are in the correct orientation. The goal as mentioned above is to have the primers come into the filler tube a little slower so not to get flipped. Play with the rheostat to find the sweet spot. It takes some tinkering but you'll figure out the combination. CCI's run through like butter.
Certain primers just work or don't work as good as others. Federal LPP are a no go in my RF but Winchester LPP work great.
Nature of the beast I guess.
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On 6/19/2019 at 5:54 PM, Smithcity said:
Agreed, some dry fire at the safe table is a good tip. Some dry fire at home before you head to the range is good. When you get to the match, make sure you are there early enough to walk the stages. Process and program a stage plan for the first stage, and even run the footwork at mid to full speed a couple times before you shoot. When you practice live fire put a lot of weight in the results of your first run of drills cold. Treat that first run the way you would a match. Running cold is something everyone has to do.
On match day it is imperative that you can close your eyes and mentally execute each position and shot in your mind by memory before you get up to shoot.
Do all this, and I bet your cold performance improves :).
I would agree with this whole heartedly. Make live fire practice similar to match practice including the mental game. Visualize in your live practice as you would in a match. I try to practice my mental game as much as my shooting game. As Smithcity said put a large emphasis on cold live fire practice.
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Blue bullets have been very consistent. I believe they also give Enos forum members a discount. Don't hold me to it but I am sure they did at least at one time.
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230gr RN with Hodgens Clays here but I here Ramshot Competition is usable as well. Correct me if I'm wrong though.
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25 minutes ago, americanbrosinarms said:
But it looks so good when you get good at it....
Absolutely!!
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Yup reloading dry fire practice is a must. Biggest downside of SS but worth it to gain the speed needed.
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The 45 is nice and to me easier to shoot than the 40. The guns usually run better. The only hiccup I've had with a 45 is a broken extractor. The 9's and 40's never seem to get through several matches with out a hang up. Stage planning to me is a little easier with SS major but I'm a simpleton. Shoot 4 targets (8 rounds) reload, shoot 4 targets reload and so on. Yes, 45 components cost a little more to reload but so what if it's what you enjoy. Good luck with the 45 SS.
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Another vote for EGW U die for sizing and decapping. From there the bullet feeder expander and Dillon seater and crimp dies. My ammo has been very consistent with this setup.
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Thanks guys. Trying to help a buddy set up his gun and I haven't had a Tanfo in years.
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As the title says, what recoil spring is recommended ? Thanks
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7 minutes ago, Hi-Power Jack said:
You can shoot Production, where everyone shoots a 9mm with 10-round mags.
But, Limited, with your 17+ round mags is more fun and you don't have to think
about reloads as often. (But, everyone else will have .40 calibers and 22 round mags)
For me, the big difference is that there are no rules about reloading - you can drop
your mag half full or empty, anyplace you want, anytime you want, and slip another
mag in without having to be behind cover.
And, it's a LOT more FUN.
Before your first match, read the rules 2-3 times, and see the differences.
Good luck with it
This^^^^^^^^^^^. And yes a LOT more fun.
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http://www.1911store.com/lightningrodmicrodotstisv.aspx
I put one of these on each of my SV sight trackers. I like the Brazos sight much better than the Infinity sight.
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I have used the RF100 with much success with SPP's and Winchester LPP's but for the life of me I cannot get Federal LPP's to work. A few will go down the tube but not with consistency. It's almost as if the Federal primers are a shade too large or maybe slightly out of round. I've done all the tricks as I've done all the tricks in the past to get the primer filler to work correctly. I guess my question is has anyone else had similar issues with Federal Large Pistol Primers? I've had to go back to loading primer tubes by hand.
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Give Thunderbeast a call or an email. They will get right back with you and taylor to your needs. Also their FAQ page is vey informative. My biggest concern was first shot POI shift since using them for hunting and on all my rifles I found none of that. They are a little more expensive but if you shop around for different vendors you can find a little better deal.
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Just now, andrewst359 said:
How's the recoil and sound reduction? I'd like the maximum amount of reduction available. And yes I know brakes work best but they are too LOUD. I have a Ratworx big Chubby on my 308. Works well but it's loud and the concussion.
The best way to explain is that I shoot large bore cartidges ie. 300WM, 28 Nosler, 7STW, etc with no ear protection and no recoil to speak of. The Ultra 9 is all I use on the 300WM but the 7 I use for all the 7's and 6.5's. My son uses a 7 on his 30-06 so I'm sure either of the 2 would make a 308 like a powder puff. Also, I use the CB breaks so I can transfer the cans between guns, The breaks themselves are adequate muzzle breaks without the suppressor making even the 300WM have very little recoil.
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Another vote for Thunderbeast Ultra 7 and 9. No first round POI shift and a wealth of knowledge from the Thunderbeast staff.
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On 8/6/2018 at 10:44 PM, Foxj66 said:
I have used TG and WST. The TG burns hotter and is louder the WST is worth the extra 20 every 8 pounds. Powder is such a small expense I wouldn't waste a ton of time and money trying to save a few bucks. You currently get around 10k rounds per jug so .018 per round. WST runs 150 after shipping and I load 4.8 with 180 coated lead. 11666 rounds per jug and .013 cents a round. Over 20k rounds a year you save $100
Also you pay too much for powder. WSF is $1 dollar more than WST per 8 pounds from powder valley. Watch for free Hazmat times and order 32 pounds or split an order with other shooters and bring the cost down to 150-155 a jug.
Point is unless you are un happy with how it shoots you will be wasting time that you could be shooting, loading, dry fire or making some OT at work.
I agree with this. And, I would use WST instead of WSF for 40 major. You'll get buy with less powder than WSF and shoot cleaner than TG.
SIMPLE question on neck tension
in Precision Rifle
Posted
I think first one needs to know his desired neck tension. As mentioned in previous post .001-.003 is most common. I usually aim for .002. There are 2 ways I acquire that goal. One is with bushing dies and one is with expander mandrels. To select the proper bushing you need to know the outside diameter of a loaded round. That measurement is 2 times the neck wall thickness plus the diameter of the bullet. ie. Brass wall thickness is .014" for example and bullet is .308 ". 2 X .014 = .028 .028 + .308 = .336 .336" is outside diameter of a loaded round in that particular brass. Therefore a .334 neck bushing should give you the desired .002" neck tension. All this is related to brass spring back. If you anneal, which I highly recommend, spring back will not be an issue. I NEVER use the expander balls as they pull UP through the case neck and can really negatively effect concentricity of the loaded round. Straight loaded rounds shoot straight.
Another way is using the expander mandrel. My experience is this way, although an additional step, gives the LEAST run out to your loaded round. I either use a full length non bushing sizing die or a bushing die that sizes the necks down about .005. Come back with a mandrel that sizes down through the top of the neck expanding the whole inside diameter at once. Using the above measurement I would use a .306" mandrel in this situation for a desired neck tension of .002".
Brass spring back can be a bugger in all these procedures therefore careful measuring is needed when you first start sizing to confirm the results and or tweak the size bushing or mandrel. Controlling brass neck softness is a whole other conversation.
There is lots of information on rifle specific forums such as Accurate Shooter, Long Range Hunting Forum, Longrange Only, and Snipers Hide. Good luck, research and ask lots of questions
http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2019/04/reloading-tip-how-to-set-optimal-case-neck-tension/