stuart1336

This is what it looks like from the other side. A few tips on buying an airsoft rifle Make sure you buy from a company that knows how to repair them as high use leads to them breaking. I am told that one of the best available in the US is the KWA LM4 PTR which is used by Keith Garcia. I have no knowledge of them as they are not available in the UK. It is a gas operated blow back gun. The gas is contained in the mag and it holds 40 rounds. Its a different system to the one I use and I think I probably train in a different way. The LM4 is designed for Police or Military use trying to replicate the real thing as far as possible, hence the similar capacity and blow back. I use an electric gun. The mag holds approx 300 rounds and one battery will last 3 mags. If I remove the mag, the spring pushing out the BB's disengages so its not practical for me to practice mag changes. I use the airsoft to train transitions and my eyes and it works a treat. As you can see in the video I am now training to shoot on the move (idea stolen from BAM Airsoft). The training is about being able to walk whilst keeping a steady sight picture. Short intensive sessions (5-10 minutes) firing 300-600 rounds. Thats not possible with the real thing or with a gas blow back gun limited to 40 rounds. I dont know how the trigger operates on a gas gun but on my electric gun it had an electric trigger. It will go shot to shot on average in 0.17 secs. When you start doing that and firing 600+ rounds things start to get hot and I burnt out the first two triggers quickly. I then invested in an electronic trigger (£100 fitted). This has had about 50,000 rounds through it now. I have never cleaned the gun. I use bio degradeable BB's as sometimes I shoot outside at home. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5diFn24uzqI

Thank you for all the replies. Not having any to copy when my friend welded the lifter he also extended the side as well so bending it is almost impossible. This week I cut a semi circle in the end like Dan Sierpina's. I had 1 stoppage in 175. We have already smoothed the sharp edge on the barrel. We may have to start again with a fresh lifter as this one has been altered that many times it getting confusing. I have a friend taking guns to America in the near future and his shotgun might come back with a different lifter! Getting spares for Remmington may be a little difficult for a few months. They have just changed importers and no one seems to know when guns or parts will be available.

Are there any laws stopping a person sending me a versa max lifter from America to England? I have been told C-Rums no longer ship to the UK. I emailed them Monday to ask if this is due to laws and I am waiting on a reply. I have a Versa Max Synthetic. There are not many in the UK and even fewer used for practical. We have welded the lifter but have had feeding problems on and off since January and its beginning to get to me. We put a standard lifter from a spare gun back in and we get no problems. We think its the length and shape of our modified lifter but we have nothing to compare it to in the UK. We keep modifying it. Last week in practice I fired 300 rounds and had one stoppage. On Sunday I went to a big competition and had at least 5 stoppages (I gave up counting). I placed 4th which was good but it could have been better. The gun cost £1300 plus £260 to cut it back to 24" and £100 for a tube so I have £1660 invested (thats $2670). As you can see we pay a lot for guns over here and its annoying a relatively cheap part is messing it all up. I do not want to admit defeat with the gun as I really like it but it doesn't fill me with confidence. My friend has a UK registered firearms dealer license and also an import license to bring in whole guns from America. If it requires a license we have the paperwork this end we just need someone who know how to do it in the States. Thank you

Going for a walk at 3 mph in the basement at work.

Video properly embedded

Some videos I did for a UK forum The first shows one clip of load 4 three times. The middle one being in slow motion so you can see each part. The second was in reply to people having problems with the grab from the FSL12. It also shows a few drills to help get started. Third is loading to the open bolt with slow mo at the end. The others are load 8 and 12 drills. The videos are for weak hand only. My grab is different to the first video in this thread. It's becoming clear as more people practice the load 4 that there are many different variations. The secret to it all is have a go and see what works for you. Take it slow and break it down into smaller parts first. It took me about 6-8 weeks practicing 3x20 mins a week to get good times. After that you need to take it live fire and on the move which is a whole new learning curve.

When I started practical shotgun I was advised to go left handed but I felt because I had previous experience with guns that it would take too long to swap everything. I'm so glad I stuck with right handed. The only problem was the shotgun and this was solved with the sight. Because its in a tube the left eye can't see it. So when both eyes are open there is only one dot and its always the right one! I'm surprised they are not more popular in the States. I understand the theory of the tape on the glasses but wouldn't it better for running around if you didn't need it. I also now think that there may be some advantages to being "cross eyed". I have found working steel with a rifle I transition faster left than right. I think it's probably better to have the strong eye clear of the gun to pick up more in peripheral vision. I would find swapping sides for different guns a bit challenging. No matter what I shoot the right hand just pulls the trigger. The left hand reloads and manipulates. This is the same for pistol, rifle and shotgun. I never understand why some shooters load a shotgun strong handed and then the other guns weak handed. I'm sure it just makes it all more complicated than it needs to be.

I am right handed and left eye dominant. Up until last December I was shooting with one eye closed and then I found out about this type of sight. I have been using a tru glo wing stopper anti dominant eye sight http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190893899346?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 This sight has improved my game tremendously and I shoot two eyes now for everything. But and there is always a but, I'm sure there must be a better design out there. The tru glow was supposed to be self adhesive. That lasted a few minutes. Then we glued it. Lasted a bit longer. Then we screwed one end and glued the rest and its been good for a few months until I knocked it sideways on a stage in a comp. Nothing superglue wouldn't fix but a bit confusing mid stage. It's quite long,wide and not designed for 250 rounds a week. I have found other makes available in the UK Uni Dot http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350748065822?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 And the most expensive is the HiViz Magna Comp which looks to be a lot smaller and also from the video uses a lense at the end of the fibre optic. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200957822827?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Has anyone used the HiViz Magna Comp? What recommendations do you have? Many thanks in advance.

Crossfit has even reached sunny Devon, England. I had my induction yesterday and start Monday.

I'd like to see a 7 second run. I have worked out in theory I could do 8.5 if I hit my best times for each part. A fast load time for me is 2.5 so on paper a 7 second run should be possible but very hard. 60 200 20 200 20 200 Total 700

A couple of weeks ago we took some video of load 12 and load 8 drills. I haven't been doing a lot of practice but when I have I am now trying to load without looking at the gun or caddy to try and imprint the process and make it more subconscious. What I found is that when I do look at the caddy, when live, my times are faster. For the next few months I'm trying to do all loading without looking to see how it goes. PS Anyone want to adopt a Brit for the world 3 gun 2014 and lend me an AR and pistol? Possibly in exchange for a guided tour of sunny Devon, England.

This clip shows the drill to a 4 second par timer. If you watched the tips video now watch this one and note how the ring finger digs in and controls the grab. Also note how as the second set of shells is located my eyes come up on to the target. When you watch other videos have a look and see if they are looking at the caddy or the target. Soon I will have the whole technique without looking.

Loading 4 to the open bolts. Starts with a drill loading 2 then slow motion A few tips I put together for those struggling to get the grab right with the FSL's

I havent seen many videos of load 4 live fire so I made some more of my own. FSL12's are still the fastest caddies but the hardest to master. I also made a few videos to help others get it right.

It seems the marks are a red herring and just bedding in. We think we have cured he problem. The lifter that was welded up was too long and the new shell rising was knocking the old shell off the extractor. We have shortened it a few mm and all seems to be working well.

Timer apps are fantastic for par timing on the cheap. The Surefire is free and the par timing function easy to use. Live fire it has never worked properly for me. If you can afford it the CED7000 is fantastic for everything and I bet most people will not use all the functions. With it you can have more choice with par timing. For example you could set a par time, multiple reps and choose the gap between if you need to reset. You can also have multiple par times in one drill which I have yet to use. The CED7000 will pick up airsoft but you need it to be fairly close. I use it for airsoft rifle (mounted on the fore end) and the information I get from the shot to shot times has helped me improve my transitions. For airsoft pistol if i set up a stage i will set a long countdown and place the timer where the last shot is to be fired. The CED also picks up .22 easily which not all timers do. Another function I have just started to use is the spy function. When you watch several shooters run a stage at a comp you can time them (as long as your close enough) and see how you compare and where you make up time on them or where they are faster than you. At home training I use both CED and Surefire. For shotgun loading and dry fire shotgun/pistol I use the app. For airsoft/live fire I use the CED.

Does anyone have any ideas about what causes the stoppages or the amaze to the bolt?

First competition of the season today and the first outing for my new Versa Max. As we have modified it we have worked through several stoppages and we thought it was running fine. Today the first four stages were fine. On stage 5 & 6 it had a stoppage after the last shot and then on the last three stages I had ten stoppages. After stage 6 I took the gun apart and saw the marks on the bolt shown below. All the were the same. The gun does not eject the spent cartridge and picks up the next and shoves it in the back of it. We had this about three weeks ago and found marking on the lower locking lug. Smoothing it cured it. It would seem the bolt was either not going fully into battery or perhaps going in and bouncing out. Now it seems the top locking lug is marked both sides and also the rear side of the groove on the barrel. Seems strange that a new gun should have the bolt beating itself up. I have about 2000 rounds through it from new. My intention is to remove the burrs on the bolt and barrel and see how it goes. Is this the right thing to do? I feel like I'm chasing problems and as I fix one another one appears. This was the side we did three weeks ago after it had been smoothed out. These are the marks from today

I have a Versa Max Synthetic that has been modified. We have worked through several problems and we are almost there with reliability but I still get a stoppage about every 50 rounds. This stoppage is the shell getting cut on the extractor cut out. I have read many posts about smoothing this out on both VM's and Benelli's. I want to smooth it out but my gunsmith is concerned this may affect the seal around the shell in the chamber. Spares are hard to get here. Will smoothing the sharp edge affect the seal of the shell and the operation of the gun?

If you buy something like an FSL12 or FSL8 you can load 2 or load 4 or traditional weak hand all from one system.

As said before loosen the screws holding the upright wire bar. Put a shell in the bottom of the caddy then set the tension. The wire needs to go inwards as it goes up as it looses strength. By putting the shell in you can be sure you can get that one out.

What problem do you have?

Thanks guys, I feel stupid now. I have been out and pushed the M2 handle a bit harder and it's clicked in the VM.