A bit of info by a very knowledgeable guy. He has pictures on this post but they didn't make the trip..
log man Discussion starter
15722 posts · Joined 2007
#1 · May 12, 2022
We are all aware of the value of using a square (small radius) firing pin stop, better fitting, holds the extractor better, keeps the firing pin in place, helps to retard the recoil impulse. As with other 1911 part's design there are several implications and options for them. The slide with a normal firing pin stop is pretty easy to pull back to cycle and that's fine. However we have found a value in keeping the slide closed as long as possible and with as great a resistance as is reasonable. Stronger recoil springs are often chosen, but add to muzzle dip. There is a second option for the firing pin stop, to benefit controlling the recoil cycle.
When the hammer strikes the firing pin, and is stopped by the firing pin stop, it should/must stop at the top of the hammer face, this protects the hammer shank. We have all at one time or another been using a hammer and missed the mark, to only damage the handle. Lol So the 1911 is the same by design, and is evidenced by the mark just above the firing pin hole of the stop showing this.
This then is an area that can be adjusted, so the hammer face is ever so much closer to parallel with the firing pin stop. What this does is makes the bottom of the stop ever so much closer to the lower area of the hammer to begin to cock, and increases the slides resistance, immediately, before the bullet has even left the barrel.
I had made a mandrel to hold the stop when cutting the radius on this tool grinder, and can also use it to cut the top to bottom bevel. As with every thing you can go too far, as the hammer must displace most of it's energy after hitting the firing pin by coming to rest against the top of the stop, just above the firing pin hole. But it can be a lot closer, the difference can easily be felt by slide cocking the hammer, after the modification. The slide will feel very solid immediately upon attempting to cycle.
There are several potential values to this easy to reverse, modification. A weaker recoil spring, can easily be used reducing muzzle dip, less slide travel before the bullet exits, which may be of accuracy value. A lighter main spring can be used. Etc. You be the judge, this is a common modification for race/competition guns.
The first picture, of the FPS in the slide, next out, third, showing the single plane taper of about .028" total, forth, the mandrel which holds the stop by the pin hole I knurl it so the stop is snug, fifth, shows how I round the bottom corner radius, and sixth shows a protractor fence to control the bevel and is set at about 1º. I have done this to all my stops and have not found a negative to it. And as mentioned before it is on a relatively inexpensive part and can be easily replaced. Note, the firing pin remains an inertia firing pin, as after this modification, the hammer still can not hold the firing pin through the breech face.
LOG
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Warning, do not remove any material from your pistol or any of it's parts if you do not know the result and it's consequences! .......it gun....gun dangerous...
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Warning, do not remove any material from your pistol or any of it's parts if you do not know the result and it's consequences! .......it gun....gun dangerous...
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