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Not sure if this is the case but on my Mossberg with a 9 rd tube fully loaded I can only have one slug in the tube (8 birdshot +1 slug). Reason being the slugs are a little longer and there isn't enough room in the tube to allow enough room to release the next shell. The tube will hold 7+2 slugs but will not release the next shell. Hope this makes sense.

Thanks for the help. I figured there would be some longer shots but the statement about knowing your rifle zero out to 100yds kinda confused me. I'm so looking foward to this match.

This will be my first trip to Rockcastle. What type of distance can be expected with the rifle.

I think you just described the STI Spartan. It's only $100 more than the RIA Tac with better internals. I agree the Spartan is a better overall gun than the RIA but I don't know where you can buy one for $539. Just checked and it looks like the going rate is around $750. That's about $300 more than a RIA. For that much you can buy a magwell, 3 nice 10 rd mags, a holster and mag pouches and be set for IDPA.

I vote for the RIA or a Citadel. I have both and both are excellent guns. The Citadel is an almost identical clone of the Spartan as far as cocking serrations. Both of these guns have a fixed rear sight but Dawson's has a fiber optic front sight that matches the fixed rear. I also have nicer 1911/2011 pistols but I feel these two are the best bang for your buck.Guess what gun this is?

Looks like one of the mods I've been working on. I filed a little off of the trigger assembly to see if it would allow the rear portion of the shell release to pivot inward a little more. It seems to be working but as you can see from the pic it's still hitting the trigger assembly. I think I'm going to take a little more off.

I had a similar issue. When I first bought the gun new I had already seen the Brownell's video so after only a few rounds for initial function testing I pulled the shell stop and did a little polishing. My shell stop had a small bur that would leave a little scratch on the head of ejected hulls so I basically smoothed that down with fine sandpaper and then polished with a dremel minimally. My only other modifications were a xl extended cap and welding up the lifter. The gun functioned great with factory mag spring but somehow it got twisted up so it was replaced with a Nordic cut approx 10" past end of extension. Fast foward to about 600 rounds with no problems shooting Rio, Estate, and Federal bulk with cleanings after every 200 rounds. Last stage of a match with empty chamber start, when I charged the handle the first shell wouldn't release. After several attempts I dropped one in the port, fired it and the rest fed just fine. I finished the match with no other problems and thought it was an isolated incident. At the next match on the second stage the problem came up again so I ended up borrowing a gun for the rest of match. The gun went from running great to not releasing shells by hand cycling or live fire. After reading all the post on here I could, I tried stretching the shell release spring and changing to a new mag spring because mine had compressed a little. Although better the gun would still not cycle reliably. I ended up pulling the shell release again and polishing the tip that touches the shells really well with dremel. I also found an area at the back of the release that had been rubbing the lifter so I filed a little off that area and polished it and the area on the lifter where they were contacting. I have since shot about 80 shells with no problems and it is hand cycling fine. I still have no idea if the gun is going to be 100% but I'm going to be putting some rounds through it over the next couple of weeks for testing. If something changes I'll update

I asked on Burris' Facebook page and their reply said mid-summer. Whatever that means. Still interested in this myself.

I think that's what may have happened but is that not a concern that oil is coming through the barrel at any point? I did clean this area of any residual oil and put another 35 rds through it this afternoon with no more signs of oil seepage. I even taped a piece of toilet paper over that area to see if any dirty gas or oil might transfer onto it. So now I'm just thinking this is kinda weird but I'm going to keep an eye on it and if anything changes I will update

Hi Viz set on lowest setting with factory front. Correct, no visible lines parallel to barrel. The perpendicular line is actually where the barrell steps down in size and where I'm concerned there could be some sort of crack. I cleaned the oil off last night and plan on shooting a bit this afternoon. I'll give this a try. I know the oil didn't come from under the sight but could be possible it dripped down off the rib, but doubtful.

I've had an issue with my Mossberg 930 so I was test firing it today after a thorough cleaning. When I came in I noticed oil looked like it was coming through the barrel where it steps down just outside of the receiver. Before cleaning I noticed a white cloudy substance with the consistency of dirty grease in the same spot. While cleaning the original substance off I didn't think much about it because it had been through two matches, one of which was TFD that was a mud-fest. After test firing less than 50 rds I noticed the oil. If there is a crack, I can't see it with my bare eyes and I don't have anything with magnification. Anyone ever seen this before?

Have had similar issue that I'm trying to figure out. Did you ever post how you fixed it?

I have the Proctor on rifle and VTAC on shotgun. Like them both. Be sure to get some practice taking guns on and off, paying attention to if there is any conceivable way that it could dis-lodge a holstered pistol. I found the safest and most comfortable way for me was to sling muzzle up over my right shoulder with the gun fairly tight to my body. While un slinging I grab the muzzle with my right hand as I release tension on the sling with my left. The gun goes up and over my head to my weak side. Doing it that way there is almost no way to dis-lodge a holstered pistol. I've also seen a lot of people that go muzzle down and while that seemed more comfortable it was awkward for my to un sling and there is the possibility of the muzzle dragging the ground if kneeling. You may not need this info but a few months ago I was clueless and couldn't find much info on pros/cons of different techniques so I just thought I would put what I found out worked for me out there.

I use 4.22 gr N320 with MG 124 fmj through several 2011/1911 guns including a Trojan. All have 10lb recoil springs / 17lb main spring and run with no problems.

I got a confirmation page after registering but no email ?????.