idleclamp

The spacer made an immediate difference. Next time to the range I’m going to try it with the BCG weight removed. If I can’t get it to feel the way I want, that will probably be my next step. Thanks.

Comps have nothing to do with a bullet traveling across the sensors.

I made it to the range a couple days ago. First off, i figured out that the buffer is heavier (5.5 oz) and the spring that was in it was a JP .308 spring. The first thing I did was add a plug at the opposite of the recoil spring to shorten the stroke. I forgot that I had taken it out trying to work out another problem. That made an immediate difference. Then I started trying different combinations of 3 recoil springs and the other buffer I have which is a Spikes 9mm 7.5 oz buffer. Nothing seemed to make a noticeably more difference than restricting the stroke. One thing I did not try was removing the weight from the BCG because I forgot to bring the tools to do so. I also switched to the 16” upper for a little bit and there was even less jump (obviously). But it doesn’t swing as fast as the 10.5”. At the next range session, I will bring the tools to remove the BCG weight and see what that does. Thanks for all the help!

Cool. Buffer/weight/spring experimentation next range session.

I hope to hit the range later this week. If I make it out, I’ll try that and report back. Thanks.

No, the weight is not removed. I can certainly do that. It was a less than optimal hold. With an optimal hold, the second shot still goes low, albeit much less. My point is that it seems to be moving the wrong direction for recoil, which is why I (at first) thought it was the comp.

When I hold it tight, it definitely makes a difference. But, this is a 9mm and people keep saying it doesn't need a comp, yet many people are running them. The rifle is moving in an unexpected direction. I'm trying to figure out why. Thanks though.

QC10 bolt. It's been a while, and I don't remember the buffer and spring. I've attached pics. I weighed the buffer and it's 5.5oz. I pulled a buffer from a stock RRA AR-15 to compare. The length is the same, but this one is heavier.

I've built a 9mm AR-15 with a 10.5" barrel and a SLR Rifleworks Synergy mini comp 1/2x36. While I've had this rifle for a while, I am just now getting into competing with it. But I haven't had much time to really wring it out. I have been experimenting with different loads and finally settled on one (at least for now). It's 4.0 grains of N320 under a 115 MG JHP. PF is about 137. I've noticed that the dot moves around a bit when I shoot, but I attribute that to just needing more practice with it (been shooting revolver all year). However, I noticed something on a video at the last match I shot. It seems like I have TOO MUCH compensation. I posted a video of the stage I shot. Briefly, the procedure was to pin the good guy (non-threat on a swinger) to the table and Mozambique the two targets. This meant that I had to shoot strong hand only. As you can see in the video, the second shot on both targets hit quite a bit lower than the first shot. All the reading that I've been doing suggests that the comps do virtually nothing, yet many guys are running them. The difference could be that I'm running a SBR. So, I'm looking for suggestions. My first thought is a different comp. One that ports more out the sides. But I figured I'd ask before I started spending money.

Awesome, thanks. I just ordered a 686SSR and some various 100 round packs of plated bullets that I found. Hopefully, I’ll get some reloaded and tested in the next month or so before it goes to the gunsmith for some improvements.

I have some HP-38 that I tried in .45acp. Didn’t like it. I plan on trying it again with .38 special. Played bullets? Moly coated?

What gun are you using and what is the velocity?

And yet, there doesn’t seem to be any clear winning combinations.?

I have a bunch of N320. Maybe I’ll try that. I’ve also heard some like American Select, but sounded like there is some issues with metering.

I’m going to be picking up a new revolver (not sure which one yet) to compete in IDPA. It will be .38spcl and a 4-ish inch barrel. I will most likely run 142-158 grain either plated or jacketed bullets. I’m new to .38spcl but not new to or reloading or IDPA. I’m looking for suggestions on powder and loads. It needs to be somewhat accurate and make power factor of 105, so at least 665fps with a 158 grain bullet. I would probably like the velocity about 700fps to give some wiggle room. Suggestions?

My Major Match shooting season is over using my S&W 625JM. I can say it was a humbling experience, but rewarding. I’m probably going to start the revolver research all over again to shoot 38spcl next year. On my 625, I replaced the front and rear sights, put a Wilson combat spring kit and shaved a touch off of the strain screw. I also lightly sanded the front of the trigger since it felt a little too sharp. I had the cylinders chamfered. I replaced the grip with a VZ, then didn’t like the grooves, so I ground them off and recontoured it a bit. Then I added Talon tape. I also replaced the cylinder release with a bigger (but still legal for ESR) one. I did pretty well at the sanctioned matches this year, when I didn’t torpedo it myself. I’m on my ipad and can’t reduce the size of the pics enough to post them. Hopefully I’ll remember when I get home. Here’s a video of my me shooting it at the 2018 MI State IDPA Championship. 2018 IL State IDPA Championship

I'm starting to get away from back up irons on competition guns for that same reason. On my AR's, if they have BUIS, they're flip-ups. Evidently, the Viper won't fit on the CORE either. I watched a video where a guy took a file to remove the .020" needed to make it fit. I couldn't find another optic that I was super-excited about, not to mention I already spent a bunch on this one. Soooo, who' not afraid to take a dremel to a brand new gun and optic? Apparently, this guy.? Well, it fits now. It still sits a little higher than I want it too (regardless of the irons). I haven't been able to shoot it yet, because now it doesn't have screws that are the right length. Those are enroute. But, how does it look?

Let me start out by recognizing that this wasn't the smartest thing to do: I got a smokin' good deal on a M&P40 CORE last year. I've been busy with other projects and basically parked in the safe until earlier this month. Then I decided to get an optic for it because, hey, it has a spot for one, right? I did some quick research and all threads I could find were a couple of years old. Long story short, basically because a lot of people seemed to like the Deltapoint, I ended up getting going with that....except I bought the Deltapoint Pro. Because I thought it would be the same, but better. Well, the damn thing didn't fit any of the mounts. So, I ordered the mount that Leupold makes. The problem I have is that it sits too high for my liking. So I decided to modify the Deltapoint mount (type 2) so I could use it. Except the optic sits about 1/16" too far forward to make it work. So I'm stuck. Take a dremel to my brand new optic, find a place to mill my slide, or get another new optic. I'm leaning towards getting a new optic, but wanted to get some current opinions. If I decide to leave the irons on the gun, I want the sight tall enough to 1/3 co-witness. With the Deltapoint Pro, the irons are useless.

I don’t have it in front of me, but IIRC I used 3.8 of Clays under a 230 plated bullet. I’m pretty sure I was making Revo PF. Have to look at my notes. I’ve given up on HP-38. Stuff is too damn dirty. I’m loading wit TG and N310 because that’s what I have. Just received 1lb of WST. Gonna try that at some point as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What’s the velocity? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So far, I’ve tried Clays, HP-38, N310, and Titegroup. HP-38 is dirty as hell. Clays: meh. Probably need to try it more before making an opinion. N310 and TG seemed to do pretty well. I may end up getting some WST to try. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Right now it’s set at about 7# pull double action. I’ll find out tonight how it shoots. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s funny that you mention that. When I changed the main spring, I put a 14# return spring based on some reading I did. When I got it back from the gun smith, he said he changed out the 14# for the 12#. He told me it help make the trigger run smoother. I’ll find out tonight.

I ended up buying a 625JM. I was agonizing over which one, but found a good deal on this 625 and took it as a sign. I ended up putting a Wilson Combat spring kit, VZ grips that I modified (removed finger grooves and certain parts), sanded down the grooves on the trigger a bit, Dawson Precision front sight, had the cylinder chamfered and the internal components smoothed and polished. I also bought shims that I might eventually try to true up the hammer, etc. I’m sure many will think all of this is overkill, and it may very well be. But it makes me happy to tweak on it. I had most of this done before I even fired a shot. I did one range session trying to find a load I like, then to a local match. I didn’t do all that great (reloading is SLOOOOW), and apparently I forget how to count sometimes. But I won one of the stages overall. I just got it back from the gunsmith (sight, chamfer, triggerwork). I’m going to hopefully decide on a powder (another agonizing process) and start hitting the major matches soon.