CenTX

Actually that is a scan of the "first draft" of the rules that I have. Don't know if they were adopted as written or if there were other drafts. edited to add detail.

Rob Leatham and Brian Enos were shooting then and would probably be able to comment on that. David Cupp is at some of the Austin and San Antonio matches and he was active then also. He's in this picture from Brians site. I quit shooting in about 1984 and did not shoot any matches again until 2004, so I can't answer your question.

I was match director for the Brazos Practical Shooters (Houston, TX). I assume it was 1978 since I have a copy of the first draft of the IPSC rules for practical pistol competition sent to me by Jeff Cooper dated june 1978. Originally there were no classes or divisions. Everybody shot against everybody else straight up. edited for clarification.

Going through some old stuff and found two Tom Wilson Company #1 Sear Jigs and one of the #1-H Hammer Jigs. Haven't used them in over 25 years and can't find the instructions. Does anybody have a copy they would share? I seem to remember you use a .020 shim to stone the sear, but don't remember anything about the hammer jig. Thanks.

Nothing illegal about it, but like taking a sight picture with a loaded gun, it makes some ROs nervous.

He is a shooter from the Phillipines. Maybe unknown here, but he has had some good showings in major IPSC matches.

Completely agree with not getting your money back after a certain date. The match organizers are making plans based on the commitments of the shooters who sign up. If you got your money back at the last minute there could be gun problems if the day before the match the temp drops into the 30s or you get heavy rains, or both. However, people do get sick, called into work, guns do break etc.. While I think it is fair for the match to keep the entry fee, I think it also fair that the shooter be able to sell or give their slot to someone. If they are unable to sell or give their slot and the shooter has a representative present to pick them up. He should get his shooters package, shirt, bucket raffle prize, and place finish prize if there are enough. I don't recall shooting a big match where this is addressed before the match. That being said, as long as everything is clearly spelled out that's the way it is. You pay your money and you take your chances.

I was part owner and worked in one, but that was over 25 years ago.

In this particular case, with that many hits, in this specific case maybe that would be fair. However, writing that rule would have all sorts of issues. If the popper falls on the second hit is it REF, or is it the 3rd , 5th, 8th? The time is worse on the reshoot, is that fair? Do you have to take the reshoot? A shooter is having a bad run and puts a second hit on the steel after it starts falling in order to get a reshoot, what then?

A pretty good rider once told me "you get a lot more traction when the wheels are on the ground". Heal fast HLG.

Unfortunately, I agree. I felt like there was a little too much of a "preachy" attitude. Another good read, and FREE, is "Lights Out." Just google Lights out survival story and you should find it. Free, pre Patriots, versions of the story, dating back as far as the 1990s, are/were avaiable as Triple Ought and TEOTWAWKI.

First thing I'd do is call Dave. There is a chance he will give you a new mount, certainly worth a call.

No question the Benny Hill gun would would be the way to go, unless the Grand Master was way cheaper. Then if it didn't run you could send it to Benny.

I thing the CR is the best choice for speed on a scoop draw. You can us the holster as sort of a guide to assist in lining up your hand for the scoop. This works great if you only shoot open or Limited., but the holster must be adjusted to go from one to the other, The CR is much less secure when locked, but you can still draw when it is locked, so if you forget to unlock it, no problem. I like the Ghost better, but I do not use a scoop draw. The pistol comes out of the Ghost very easily if it is not locked, if it is locked you will give yourself a wedgie. The design of the lock lever is such that you can learn to unlock the holster on the draw. The lock lever will move forward or back, one is easy to access and could accidently be unlocked by bumping it against something., rotate the other way and it is behind the holster where it can't be accidently bumped and unlocked. Since there is no muzzle support there is nothing to change on the Ghost to go from Open to Limited.

Attached are pictures of the tools I made by modifying allen wrenches. I cut off the small allen wrench for the lock screw. Then ground down two larger allen wrenches to make screw drivers. They have worked very well for me.

Exhibition shooter, fast-draw artist, Ruger spokesperson, Joe Bowman has passed away. Joe was a WWII vet and was wounded in action. In addition to is shooting exhibitions, Joe worked in leather, making boots and gun rigs. http://www.joebowman.com/

I am having trouble picturing exactly what she was doing. However, a lot of the unsafe gunhandling I see is a botched replication of a technique that they have seen or read about somewhere. This shooter's technique or lack of same, may have been based on seeing someone do a "press check" as was taught by Jeff Cooper and others in the late 70s early 80s. It was also more common when most 1911s did not have full lenghth guiderods. The shooter puts the pad of their weak hand thumb against the inside of the trigger guard and the weak hand index finger is place on the recoil spring cap, underneath the barrell, then with a little pressure the slide is pressed back with the index finger enough to see that there was a round in the chamber. Many matches were run with a hot range. This and other techniques were modified/discontinued/no longer taught for safety reasons.

If you get a Dell, buy the Latitude series, that's their business series. My wife is using my old Latitude D610 and I now have a D630. I know a lot of people with these that are really happy with them. I take and use mine almost every I go. I do try to take good care of it, but it sees it's share of abuse. I would not buy the Inspiron or XPS series laptops, they are not as robust IMHO.

Be consistent, always LAMR and ULSC the same way. Always, always take a sight picture. Iron sight, C-More, does not matter, take a sight picture. It won't hurt you and it may save an unplasant surprise. If, when using a C-More, you take a sight picture and there is no dot, turn it on. The command should be, "Unload, show clear, turn off your dot". Turn off the dot before your gun goes back in the holster.

Lots of ALSPPC shooters on here. Shred, General Chang, XRE, KGentry, 1911Jerry, AustinMike and others.

I have a Smith & Alexander on my Trojan.

Sorry for your loss.

Making Single Stack grips from scratch. 1. Get piece of polymer 2. Use existing grips to mark, then cut to size 3. Using a file and sanding shape to size 4. Drill holes for grip screws 5. Stipple This set I made fairly thick to feel more like my STI Eagle and Open Gun. I think this pair are a bit too thick and so I will make another set a bit thinner. There are also some subtleties to shape, at least with thick grips, that can affect the idex. It seems to be a pretty quick learning curve and the fact that your texture can cover a lot of things that were not perfect make it easy to fix most mistakes. Spent way too much time on the screw holes at first, with the grip bushings and screws, each hole in the grip has four different diameters at different depths. However, I think you could do just one diameter and when you stipple just melt the plastic to give the grip screws a ledge and then touch that up with a drill to make the surface flat for the grip screw. Pictured is a Colt Gunsite CCO pistol and therefore are Officers Model length grips. Edit to add detail

If I were having another Open Gun built it would be a Benny Hill gun.

I was by Cabelas in Buda TX yesterday and they had 45K plus Remington Large Pistol Primers.