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Posts posted by wes777
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I don't mean to hijack this but have a similar situation and would like some advice.
This is a Fred Craig built F19R with a s/n of 001. It has maybe 50 rounds through it.
There are some pieces avaiable now that would be cool to add but would that hurt the value ?
So does a guy shoot it, update it or trade it ?
It is a beautiful gun, with the advent of PT metal grips for S_I frames, the older one piece are going to be a thing of the past. JMHO. Add parts you desire, shoot the thing loose, and retire to back up gun status.
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get an LED strip of 2 or 3 that run to a small battery.
Mount LED strip at the bottom front of Cmore.
Tape battery to left side of grip.
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modding a SV trigger shoe to fit the STI grip involves thinning the shoe, Which you already know. Major PITA. If you do it yourself, it will never be what you want it to be (well it never was for me). I did it both ways, it cost me one used SV shoe and one STI grip. I did the hybrid install (SVI shoe on STI trigger bow). I ended back with the STI gunsmith trigger, simply because of the STI plastic grip. IF I was going to purchase the PT grips, I would order the SVI trigger.
At the end of the day, you can achieve a sub 1.5-2lb trigger pull on STI triggers and a few other parts with a little know how and tuning. So the extra money is only worth it if you feel it is.
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never seen a factory SV with an STI grip either.From the photo, it doesn't appear to have a hybrid barrel which seems odd to me. I'm not sure I've ever seen one of their open guns without a hybrid barrel.
I would guess that grips get changed over time. So now you can say you have seen a factory SV with an STI grip. Also the FC group is Brazos.
Personally, I'd send Brandon the serial number and have him tell you if it was a gunsmith build or an older Factory gun. brandon@sviguns.com
+1,
I think what everyone is trying to do, albeit in a very nice way, is say that it may have been a factory gun.... at one point. with the modifications you listed..... it is not really a factory piece. Trigger group, grip, maybe cmore (not a whole lot of SV factory guns with serendipity's on them). With the unknown round count, look for a really good deal.
FWIW the thumb safety, beaver tail, and racker look to be later installs, to my eyes.
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HERE is the latest!
Yes, I could not resist.
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IMHO; the critical fitting is the barrel timing. you might need some outside advice.
Finally! That video did cover timing and measuring the lug recesses in the slide. I posted here to try and find out how running a light recoil spring and 175pf ammo effects all this.
Get it coated-i prefer hard chrome. but all the other finishes are quite good.
Why not just leave polished SS?
3 single stacks later, If I were to do it again.... Baer base gun, build from there.
Yeah, but why?
Baers are tanks. You are guarunteed accuracy, whether you want a 3 inch or 1.5 inch gun is up to you.
What you get:
Tight fit
accuracy
ok trigger, which can easily be great
Good parts!
What you will need:
Magazine well
Sights (maybe)
Maybe FLG
- I went with Springfield the first time and 2 Trojans next
sights
barrel bushing
Magwell
full ignition system
oversized pins/or just better pins
reliability job
try tuning ammo to get better accuracy, might get lucky.
I have been shooting one of these configurations for 10+ years, Picked up a Baer threw some crap in the mag and now regret my last 3 1911s. what makes it worse, I have Baer money in a Trojan.
Shop around, find a base model in the 1500 range, save yourself time/money.
Polished Stainless-polish away, WHY? blued carbon, use the difference to order Tripp mags.
Lighter recoil spring...... you will need a monster grip. 12 to 16 lb spring should cover everything. Lighter than that and you are getting into Lim/Open territory. I thought the same thing... Try shooting 9mm Major ammo through a 9mm single stack. Snappy.
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3 single stacks later, If I were to do it again.... Baer base gun, build from there.
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Buffs*
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
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Disconnector. Are you stacking shock biffs?
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
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Sound's like your safety is no longer safe! When the hanner is back and the saftey engaged, will depressing the trigger allow the hammer to fall? If so, you can either try to salvage it with a hammer, or fit a new one.
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I hated switching feom MLA to APA, but it is the thing to do. Luckily word now supports your move by allowing you to choose, and update formatting. So you really dont have to learn a whole new way of doing things, just how to opperate word.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
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Should be fun
I think that I speak for everyone when I say that Corey should declare a division now, and it should probably be revo!
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I have looked at it and spoken to shay about it. Have not shot it. Shay is pairing it with his new approach of lengthening the stroke of the gun. Shane Coley thinks that it works well. There are not many of them out there yet.
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There's plenty of meat under mag release and where the trigger guard runs into the front strap. If its already chromed I wouldn't do it though. The little bit perceived as a gain is not worth the cost of the refinish.
+1 (if that is your intended frame in the pic)
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I have put an SVI shoe on an STI bow. Not difficult. Also not difficult to make ugly. The second time around it went much better.
The trick is to continue to remove material until the bow sits in the grip channel perfectly. Don't just drop it in and pin.
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Check out the gunsmith forum. Straightupog has posted directions and pics. Look for the impressively long thread.
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The GUNSMITHING forum would have been better for your query.Just wondering if anyone has done this. I have a 5.25 XDM, and I noticed when I threaded it for a comp that the material is really hard and gummy about .02 deep from the nitride. Nearly impossible to cut with HSS, used carbide. I am thinking that if I drill a popple hole, it will push a gnarly burr into the bore, and a reamer will not peel it out since the interior of the barrel is also nitride. Thinking about pecking the hole in with a 1/8 carbide end mill. Any thoughts from someone who has fought this?
Tom
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relieve part of the spring center spring face in order to hold the spring on the disconnector
OR smash some material on the spring to hold it in place
OR use a wood burner to burn some material in the channel, creating a stop to hold the spring correctly.
now that I read the description I just typed, I have no idea if this helps.
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My guess is that, after all of the ragging that a lot of people did on last years match, he is out of the match biz for the time being.
He took some heat at the match, after the match he emailed everyone? Asking for honest feedback.
He cannot control the heat or weather, but steel, some RO issues, and a 3 hour award ceremony!!! - as a side note, still dont have my shirt.
I don't know how it's possible you don't have your shirt. During the awards ceremony he called - by name - each person who ordered a shirt and asked if they got one. He even had some funny anecdotes about a lot of them.
I was moving back east the next week, just happened to work out that I could go. Called and got into a slot, paid at the match. He took my info and said that my shirt would be in the second batch, approx two weeks away. One year, and several phone calls/emails later, I am over it.
-How are you surprised? He was handing out shirts from the previous year at the shooters meeting/award ceremony, It was pretty funny, "hey man, xxxxxx, here is the shirt you ordered for last years match. Glad we finally got to give it to you."
That is why I have given up on that shirt. I spoke with him six months after the match, he said "I have one shirt left, I was trying to figure out who's it was." lol, yep, he still has it!
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Just a thought, your barrel likes 115s, why not feed it 115s? Best guess is that the concentricity of your reloads may not be cooresponding well with a factory barrel designed around reliability, ie, looser tolerances. However, even with a tight chamber, it may not ever shoot the 124s well. I get better accuracy out of the hornady 124s than with the Montana golds.
-last note, i spoke with several of the wizards at the AMU service pistol
/ bullseye team. They are using 115s exclusively. After alot of testing, 115s were the only weight bullet that was stabilizing enough to keep sub 1" at 50 yards. 147s did well out of a 1911 barrel, but that was the only exception. I realize that we are talking about completely different guns.... 115s are just good in 9mm.
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Mini BF is now up and running. Works very well and is more than adequate for my needs. Given the height of my bench I will not be extending my feed tubes. Using 9mm , 125 GN RN bullets I was able to fit about 120 into the feeder.
Setup is pretty straight forward however I did manage to bounce one ball bearing into an unknown location! Good thing there are 3 spare.
Am just waiting on the case feeder then I will nearly be at optimum output.
Uniqutech machine shell plate also installed and just the Redding competition seating die to come.
I think if you stack them too high, the weight of the bullets may cause them to drop out at the wrong moment.
All in all, very happy with the product, although It still seems a lot of money for what it is.
After some consideration, There are not enough savings involved to justify the mini. Caveat: This is in my application, I want to sit down and reload 8k+ at a time, I need the Mr Bullet Feeder. At that point, I also need the Dillon Primer filler and more primer tubes.
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18v drill
Pin
Hammer
...go
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Outstanding!! I had forgotten I said .10 also. It only took Shane what 5-6 tries to get to .10? Granted you only told him .12 but I doubt he was holding back lol
I was about 6 feet away with the timer, that might cut .01, im not sure.
maximizing STI magazines
in General Gunsmithing
Posted
Grams guts. Dawson/grams/tti/shooters choice pads.
use: file, vice, hammer, oven, dremel. gauge yourself or be gauged at major.