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RiggerJJ

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Everything posted by RiggerJJ

  1. That bring up another issue. A crimp die set too hard can do what Noylj is taking about, as in swaging the bullet down. A Lee factory crimp die is notorious for that. Best to use just a slight taper crimp. If you are using one, check by measuring a bullet, seating and crimping it, then pull it and measure again.
  2. Nothing wrong with using a reddot on pistol and TO legal rifle and shotgun in stealth, its just legal to have a dot on shotgun and 2 optics on rifle and a bipod. Nothing says those accessories are manditory... ps: Stealth does have some other restrictions, like 30 round rifle mags and such...maybe ya oughta go to Stealtys link above and READ the rules...
  3. Never try to use crimp to solve setback, because it won't. You need to size the case tighter for more neck tension, or get different bullets that are the correct diameter. Consider using a U die. It will solve the problem, if the bullets are actually .355-.556. Eta; any setback is not acceptable...
  4. Your RT is the way to go. Run it on the processing head and you don't have to handle each case individually. Use lots of lube so the resizing is consistent, then the trim will be. No way would I run thousands of cases individually thru a pencil sharpener type, or a lathe type...just too slow and the pencil sharpener is too painful on the fingers.
  5. Turn the mag over, bullets up. I use a taco mag pouch, for the longer mags I make a stiff extension for the pouch so they hang lower. Or use a leg rig. jj
  6. I am looking for a clamp type ARCA adapter for an Atlas Bipod. I have a screw knob type and it keeps coming loose... any such animals out there??? Thanks! jj
  7. Your load of 7.8 is a little lite for major, reseating will prob not help. Get the PF up to around 170 to be safe. You will probably end up at around 8.2 hs6.
  8. Yea, the popple holes will up your powder need a bit for major. I use 8.2gn of hs6 with 124jhps (no popples) and get 170ish. I also use win sp primers. I see no need to artificially (and possibly dangerously) cover up pressure signs by using rifle primers. I don't get any flow like that either...
  9. I use a RCBS drum type powder measure on a 1050 and a 650. No problems other than finding the room to install it.
  10. Some of my ballistics on different guns show that with a 200 yard zero my poi at 50 can be off by as much as 3/4 of an inch. Imagine what kind of error at 200 that would be if I zeroed at 50 and just left it. Just like Tony says above... We are saying pretty much the same thing I think, but I go even further. I don't think I'm going to induce any error... I "zero" (put it on close) at 50 then zero at 200. I just prefer to put it on at 200, then verify at longer. I even us a 6 inch high by 4 foot long calibration bar made of steel at extreme distance, (600 for a 223, 800 for 308 or a precision gun) to correct my ballistics chart and zero... I want all of my competitors to zero at 50 and leave it... All of this is done with elevation only. I will pick a calm wind day to zero the windage, at as far as I can, but at least 200. And to make it even more confusing, for my iron sight rifles I zero at 300...
  11. If you are having wind affect your bullet path much at 200, you are either shooting in a gale force wind, or shooting really light bullets. My ballistics say not quite 2 inches at 10mph direct cross... So any horizontal stringing within 2 inches is considered nil to me when rezeroing at 200 after putting it on paper at 50. 50 is NOT 200, any slight error at 50 will show up at 200. If you don't shoot 200 or beyond don't bother. But if you are using a rifle at rifle distances, you will be better off to check and re-zero at 200, once you have done the first step of getting on at 50.
  12. Why fight with the Dillon powder bar type of powder thrower, and not use the powder that you want to use? The RCBS drum type powder thrower, with micrometer adjustment and a case activated linkage installed on the Dillon head works with all types of powder, including rifle extruded powders. And no fighting with the failsafe rod and such. I have 2 RCBS throwers, one for pistol and one for rifle, and leave the case activated linkage on the head, and swap the powder measure back a forth. That way the only adjustment needed is the amount of powder for the specific load you are doing... Just a thought... jj
  13. Why would having a case feeder and bullet feeder make a caliber change complicated? You get the feed plates for the new caliber, install and adjust, and run the new caliber. For 223 you will need 2 heads; one for processing the brass (size, decap, trim) and the other for loading (primer powder, bullet). Get the Dillon on press 1500 trimmer and put it on the processing head. In between processing and loading you will need to tumble to remove the lube and Swage the primer pockets. I recommend the Dillon 600 super swager, fastest and most reliable. jj
  14. Do what you wish, but the caliber you are loading has nothing to with it.
  15. Getting some apps in for the 1st 2 rifle match, 13-14 April...stages will be a bit tougher than last year, but do-able for the beginner! If you enjoy precision rifle AND action carbine, this is your match... jj
  16. Primer pull back has nothing to do with a 1050, it can happen on any press, even a rock chucker! File the tip of the decap pin to a 45. Removing the rachet is the 1st thing you do to a 1050 when installing it. It causes more problems than it solves. It's purpose is driven by lawyers; it keeps you from shortstroking the press and making squibs. If you short stroke the press for any reason with the rachet removed, stop! Remove all cases from the press, fix the problem, and carefully reinsert the cases after inspecting each one for what it's position should be in the shell plate. (Or put them aside and disassemble them) Check that everything is tight when you start a loading session. That will help protect things from bending/breaking like your Swage rod. A lot is going on on a 1050, it takes a few hours to get comfortable with it, and get it fine tuned...
  17. When this happens to me anymore (after the fixes I posted earlier) I can see the case work it's way slightly out of position as the insert slide moves away from the case. A solid mounting surface is necessary, and clean the face of the insert slide of any lube residue. jj
  18. Question is why try to run at 125? You are not going to win any intergalactic awards running a 45 in production. Get the PF up to a reasonable level where the round is consistent and safe, and I'll bet you will not be able to tell the difference in recoil. If the outside of the case has black carbon on it, up the powder level until it seals in the chamber. You will probably find that somewhere around 150 will be the magic number. I run a 185gn bullet at about 155 -158pf with tight group in a Les Baer. Very consistent accuracy and sd, and recoil is a kitten... jj
  19. if you really want to use Varget... Remove the Dillon powder measure and get a RCBS drum measure with case activated linkage, meters Varget to +-.01 gn.
  20. I augered/belled out the bottom of my U die slightly so it didn't catch the case. Did it to all my pistol U dies, 9mm, 40, and 45. Seems to work. Also, you can move the powder measure to pos3 and put a Dillon sizing die in pos1 and the Udie into pos2. Either one of these fixes will work. jj
  21. Been there, done that... I think cmjs don't fly true because of the process of pressing the bottom piece of copper into the base, maybe... At any rate, I tried jhp, cmj, and fmj MG bullets and came away with the same conclusion; JHPs are more accurate...then fmj, and cmj were last...
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