RJH

Crazy. I've known Dale for 20ish years and did not know he invented the bear trap till today. Unless I learned that a long time ago and forgot it, which could definitely have happened LOL

Oh it's not what I believe, it's just what the rule book says. The only people who don't agree are the ones who have poor reading comprehension combined with "this is the way we always did it" frame of mind. And maybe poor reading comprehension is a little harsh. Maybe confirmation bias combined with "this is the way we always did it" leads them to the wrong answers

No gray area in this instance though

My version of correct is just what the rule book says, not really what Troy or Jody say. The only reason their opinion matters is so that we're all doing the same thing. That's whether it's all the same correct thing, or the same incorrect thing LOL

Thanks, that's at least getting closer to what I am asking. I was thinking that 200-250 fps increase in 9major might be possible and your super loads are in that realm. Maybe somebody has done the same with 9mm

Many people were of the opinion that if it was a loaded start and the competitor didn't load their gun that they should be started anyway. This was incorrect in 2008 too, but it was how the rule was misapplied then as well

But that doesn't really tell us much does it. I don't know how much gas the Corbin load has. But I do know that open guns that are getting 170 Plus power factor and really working at comp have a lot of extra gas that a longer barrel would probably crank velocities up higher than any nine created to operate in a normal gun. I say probably because apparently nobody has ever chronographed this stuff Also, in a lot of major loads people make the oal longer to get more powder in the gun. Generally speaking, more powder, with more time to burn in a longer barrel, the larger the velocity increases. But once again that's going off some other stuff and speculating. And we can't forget a lot of open guns are getting 170 plus power factor with popple holes close to the chambers. At least a lot closer than 5 in

Drag out that Chrono and get back to us LOL. Did it bulge the brass real bad or did you notice? I figured if you were to use something like nine major out of one of the blowback guns you'd have to use a heavy spring and buffer or something

I've seen that one, but they don't have anything close to a nine major load. 357 gets a big jump going to a rifle because of the higher powder capacity than nine, but nine major I would think would be somewhere between 9 mm and 357 as far as the velocity jump is concerned but, that's just me speculating LOL. Maybe somebody has done it.

I get that. Cutting a chamber or using a bolt gun would be completely fine in this scenario

Wondering if anybody has ever tried their 9 mm major open gun loads out of a rifle to see what kind of velocities they get. I don't know if blowback guns could handle nine major, or if you would have to have some sort of single shot or bolt gun, but I'm curious as to what they would do with the longer barrel. If anybody's ever tried it, let me know what you found. This is not a quest to make major out of a rifle, it's a question of how fast does major handgun ammo go out of a rifle. Basically wondering what the fastest you could drive a 9 mm out of a 16-in barrel if you were limited to something like 60,000 PSI and whatever overall length you could stuff into the chamber LOL. Probably talking a 124 grain here

If it really bothered a person they could always cock the hammer or rack the slide during the transfer. Nothing saying you can't do that that I know of, at least in USPSA

For sure. We had that happen a few times at a local the other day. Not a big deal though, just get them situated correctly before you start them.

I think USPSA is pretty much verbatim on that. But that still would be considered a loaded handgun, assuming a loaded mag was in the gun. So it would meet the ready condition of a loaded handgun. A completely empty handgun (no ammo in mag, no ammo in chamber) does not meet the ready condition of a loaded handgun and so the shooter should not be started if the ready condition is loaded. It's all in the rule book, glad to see nroi rule correctly on this one

We've had this discussion a time or two, and part of the ready condition in a starting position is how the gun is loaded. I've said that if it was a loaded start, the competitor wouldn't meet the handgun ready condition if his gun wasn't loaded and shouldn't be started. Others thought they should be. Turns out I was right LOL. This article mostly discusses starting a competitor in the wrong starting position, but that last sentence keys in on handgun ready condition. If the start calls for a loaded handgun, you at least have to have a gun with some ammo in it somewhere or else it's not loaded and the competitor shouldn't be started. Just like if it calls for an unloaded start you can't start a competitor with a loaded gun. Note that a loaded gun does not mean a round in the chamber, just actual ammunition in the gun. Discuss/argue if you like https://nroi.org/ro-best-practices/enforcing-the-start-position/

Call stacatto and see what they say

I'm not so sure there's not such thing as a flat shot. Maybe not completely flat, but when I shot a guy's open gun the other day at 10 yards there was probably not more than 6 in of vertical lift at that distance, and I think six is an overstatement it was probably more along 4. Keeping the dot in the glass, was not only not an issue, it was unbelievably easy to do. It had been awhile since I shot an open gun and to say I was surprised would be an understatement

^^^ what he said Same here, while I knew the da shot was there I just didn't really pay much attention to it. I kind of always did the "tightening the trigger finger as I was extending out on the target for the first shot" if it was a distance and rolled through the trigger. Then just shot single action the rest of the way like that was what I had done from the get-go. Also I never had any fancy dasa guns, just a Beretta 92 and the only trigger mods was putting in a factory da only main spring.

Maybe I was misunderstood. All of my factory prodigy mags have worked completely fine. I only got about 3,000 pounds totals to the gun at this point though, so not a huge sample size. The springs do seem a little weak, but like I said at this point they've been fine. Just not really worth upgrading in my opinion That said, when my springs go bad I'll probably go ahead and buy grams springs and followers so that I can get 21 in all my mags that still have the factory base pads on them. I just don't think it's worth buying the stuff to convert them to 23. Once you do that you might as well go ahead and just buy the mags that hold 23 from the get-go cause you're going to spend about the same money

Crap, I think you are right and it is a bull barrel. Sorry for the misinformation. Bad part is I am pretty sure I made the same mistake recommending that gun before.....

The tube sizes are not the same length To be honest if you wanted to increase capacity you may be better off to go with an atlas mag that's already ready to go with 23 rounds. Even though the prodigy mags are only 40 or so bucks, by the time you buy a TTI base pad and some grams internals you're basically at the same price as an atlas mag out of the box. I built up one prodigy mag, but decided it wasn't actually worth the money. So if you were looking for a couple of cheap 20 rounders The prodigy mags are the way to go, but if maxing capacity is the goal, probably should just spend the money right off the bat

https://www.budsgunshop.com/product_info.php/products_id/35203/rock+island+armory+51719+rock+ultra+fs+single+40+s%26w+5+8+1+gray+g10+grip+black+parker For one year if I was looking for a 40 I would probably just buy something like this and be done with it, unless you were wanting to have a 10 mm to mess with when you were done in which case I would probably go with the Ronin like you were discussing. But in reality I would probably do the 45/9 dill. I get that it's a headache to switch the press, but with a little planning you probably would only have to switch it once or twice

I have never understood buying a new gun and replacing the barrel, unless you were building an open gun or something. If a factory gun is not accurate enough for USPSA, it's probably a POS. So yeah, trigger, grip tape, maybe sights, depending on model (whether Glock or something else). If it needs more than that it's probably trash

I think they started making them like that so wind would be less of a factor

If the calibration zone is the right size, I'll allow it