Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

zsavage81

Classified
  • Posts

    119
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by zsavage81

  1. like kneelingatlas I have both CZ shadow (2 of them actually) and a tanfoglio stock II (both 9mm and 38 super).

    My stock 2 is actually what's called a stock 2 limited and has the longer 4.75inch dustcover and barrel but that's really a minor difference.

    Stopped reading after this. That is my dream production gun. Stock 2 Limited. The Aussie one.

    yep there is some small advantages about our weird gun rules. we get CZ shadows with slightly longer barrel too (thought they look a bit funny), and we got the stock II limited. it's a cool thing and looks nice with the flush fitting barrel crown (slide, dustcover and barrel all flush).

    I think its just cost effective for CZ to do it that way. Some say its more accurate but i had both and its the same accuracy. Now.. the Stock 2 Limited... that, is a total different beast! Its basically a limited gun.. without the hole in the frames. And its on the production roster!

    I havent seen one in US. If I do, i wish it would be mine. Ha!

    The limited is not on the production list, its a SA only gun. I believe you are thinking about the limited pro which is on the list but an entirely different gun.

    BeerBaron and I were talking about Stock 2 Limited.

    For reference, go back to original post and look at the list of guns.. its #3. Stock 2 L. Look at the length. Its longer right? Now kid, that is what they call Stock 2 limited. Like BBaron mentioned, Aus has weird gun laws, so this model was made.

    Never seen one of those, or even heard of one of those being in the US? I thought we were talking about guns he had at least a tiny prayer of actually getting, my bad.

    lol, if we're talking about guns he can actually get we'd have to exclude all the 'cool' tanfogs! just kidding. Torogi and I just got a bit sidetracked is all. no harm intended.

    what he said is correct though. there is a mythical beast called the stock II limited. basically a limited custom but without holes and with DA/SA trigger. sold in australia only (as far as I know) and on the production div list. I have one. :)

    anyway, enough thread jack. we'll stay on topic. well here's a pic or two.

    attachicon.gift5.JPG

    attachicon.gift3.JPG

    attachicon.gift1.JPG

    GREAT, now i have to go to Australia and import one of those into the US for myself.

  2. like kneelingatlas I have both CZ shadow (2 of them actually) and a tanfoglio stock II (both 9mm and 38 super).

    My stock 2 is actually what's called a stock 2 limited and has the longer 4.75inch dustcover and barrel but that's really a minor difference.

    Stopped reading after this. That is my dream production gun. Stock 2 Limited. The Aussie one.

    yep there is some small advantages about our weird gun rules. we get CZ shadows with slightly longer barrel too (thought they look a bit funny), and we got the stock II limited. it's a cool thing and looks nice with the flush fitting barrel crown (slide, dustcover and barrel all flush).

    I think its just cost effective for CZ to do it that way. Some say its more accurate but i had both and its the same accuracy. Now.. the Stock 2 Limited... that, is a total different beast! Its basically a limited gun.. without the hole in the frames. And its on the production roster!

    I havent seen one in US. If I do, i wish it would be mine. Ha!

    The limited is not on the production list, its a SA only gun. I believe you are thinking about the limited pro which is on the list but an entirely different gun.

    BeerBaron and I were talking about Stock 2 Limited.

    For reference, go back to original post and look at the list of guns.. its #3. Stock 2 L. Look at the length. Its longer right? Now kid, that is what they call Stock 2 limited. Like BBaron mentioned, Aus has weird gun laws, so this model was made.

    Never seen one of those, or even heard of one of those being in the US? I thought we were talking about guns he had at least a tiny prayer of actually getting, my bad.

  3. like kneelingatlas I have both CZ shadow (2 of them actually) and a tanfoglio stock II (both 9mm and 38 super).

    My stock 2 is actually what's called a stock 2 limited and has the longer 4.75inch dustcover and barrel but that's really a minor difference.

    Stopped reading after this. That is my dream production gun. Stock 2 Limited. The Aussie one.

    yep there is some small advantages about our weird gun rules. we get CZ shadows with slightly longer barrel too (thought they look a bit funny), and we got the stock II limited. it's a cool thing and looks nice with the flush fitting barrel crown (slide, dustcover and barrel all flush).

    I think its just cost effective for CZ to do it that way. Some say its more accurate but i had both and its the same accuracy. Now.. the Stock 2 Limited... that, is a total different beast! Its basically a limited gun.. without the hole in the frames. And its on the production roster!

    I havent seen one in US. If I do, i wish it would be mine. Ha!

    The limited is not on the production list, its a SA only gun. I believe you are thinking about the limited pro which is on the list but an entirely different gun.

  4. The other stuff seems to be no better / worse than any other production gun

    • If it points wrong, then I'll learn how to hold it right
    • If I need more grippiness, then add more
    • All the common Production gun's magazines drop free
    • Adjustable sights can be put on any of them

    However what do you mean by it "drops the slide on slide lock reloads"? You mean it does this automatically when you insert the magazine? Is it designed that way or is it just sensitive like many of the MP's that auto-forward (don't know if that's the correct term)?

    1) I'm talking about natural point of aim. as in you sling your hands up and the gun is pointed where you want it. If you are having to drive the gun somewhere else that shit takes time. That it's not a learned skill or something i had to practice is very nice. I like that the stock 2 naturally points very well for me. That may or maynot be the case for you.

    2) Show me something else that's this aggressive? Your options to add more are weak, you have skate tape or the onix stuff you epoxy on. Neither of which last and you have to deal with tape sliding around. You don't have to mess with any of that on a stock 2.

    3) Since it sounds like you haven't been in the competitive shooting game long I can tell you from my short tenure I've seen plenty of glock mags not drop out of the gun during matches and require the shooter to actually grab them and pull the mag out (ask Matt Sirmons about his 2013 Nationals experence with this). I've also seen it from the hk guys. It's a real issue, even if it's not super common those few seconds can destroy a match. What I haven't seen is anyone have this problem with metal mags.

    4) you are right, they just cost an extra $100-$125. I'm simply saying that's money you don't have to spend when you get one of these guns. The factory adjustable site works as well or better than any dawson or other aftermarket site i've ever put on a gun.

  5. I shoot a 9mm stock II in USPSA production. I agree with the trigger comments as stated, if your biggest concern is the trigger then go with a CZ. Here are the reasons I choose to shot a Stock II (not in any order)

    1) mechanical accuracy, I've seen 1.5" groups at 50 yards out of these guns. When you sling that mike at a 5 yard target you don't have to wonder if it was you or the gun.........it was you.

    2) ergonomics, gun points awesome, feels great in my hands.

    3) checkering, it's super aggressive allowing a rock solid grip. No need for skate tape or any of that other crap.

    4) gaping magwell, your not gonna find anything bigger on a production gun. It's awesome.

    5) steel body mags. They have weight, drop free great, go in great, and are durable.

    6) adjustable rear sight, saves like $100 right off the cut that you'd spend on a adjustable rear sight on any other gun youd buy.

    7) weight, it's a full oz heavier than the CZ. Not sure about the slow transition talk above, my splits and transitions have gotten a lot faster since I switched to the tanfo. The gun soaks up a ton of recoil.

    8) drops the slide on slide lock reloads out of the box (at least mine did).

    9) Eric G shoots one and that guy is a BALLER.

  6. These aren't .45 converted large frames are they? What does the sticker say on the case?

    Yea, is that a problem?

    ^lol, was going to ask if they said 10mm on the slide.

    They actually say 10mm AND .45 on the slide but it's a .40/.380 barrel, totally production legal! Reasonably priced at $8000 each.

  7. "Hennings videos helped me quite a bit. But I wouldn't recommend disassembling the sear housing just for the heck of it....that was is tricky to get back together, especially so with the 2 piece sear.

    The plunger can also be a bit tricky."

    If you wanna make the sear reassembly easy you need to make a slave pin, but I agree not, really any reason to take that apart unless you break something (I broke the leg off the spring and had to replace it is how I know).

  8. OK so I'm wanting to start loading .223 on my 650. Basically my plan is to run a case prep tool head and a loading tool head so 2 passes through the press and every thing is loaded. Here's my questions:

    I want to use a RCBS lube die to lube on the press. So in a perfect world I would lube on #1, size on #2, trim #3, and size again on #4? Then I'd tumble to clean off the lube. And on my loading run I'd use a universal decap die to clean the primer pocket on #1, powder on #2, powder check on #3, seat on #4, and crimp on #5. BUT I've heard the Dillon rapid trim takes up both station beside it? If that is true I could lube on #1, size #2, and trim on #4. If that's the case do you think it needs to even be sized a second time?

    What I heard is that the trimmer grabs the case hard enough to keep it from spinning so people were concerned it would deform the case to the point it would need a second sizing after the trim?

    I'm also considering the press mounted swager so it would truly be a 2 cycle run through the press to have loaded ammo.

    how is everyone else doing it?

  9. I was using a Timney 3lb skeletonized trigger but got to play with Mike Sextons gun and a little demo trigger deal he had at the gun club a few weeks ago. I was so impressed I went home and ordered one. Very light, positive reset!

  10. Also, you want dryfire the gun from SA, then push the hammer toward the firing pin. It shouldn't be able to move forward any. Do the same thing from DA. if the hammer has room to push forward you need to keep clipping coils.

    I have noticed this. So, When my hammer is at rest (hammer face touching the firing pin), I can still push the hammer forward. Are you saying that at rest, the hammer should be pushing to firing pin all the way forward? Firing pin is flushed to the firing pin stop?

    To get the hammer to enact the maximum amount of force on the firing pin, then yes. At rest the firing pin should have no room to push forward at all. Like I said, Pull the trigger from both SA and DA and then try to push the hammer forward from both. If you can push it further forward you can keep clipping the firing pin spring.

    That said, if you aren't having any problems popping whatever primer you're using then I wouldn't necessarily worry about it. I only shoot Feds but I still have my gun set up like this, if I was gonna shoot winchesters, or cci I'd think you'd definitely wanna do this. It's just going to increase your ability to reliabably pop primers.

    When I was talking about running it to the ragged edge what I should have probably said is that on a new spring I would clip it to the point that the hammer still has about a mouse click worth of room to push forward. Then I'd put 1000 reps on that spring to help it set and check again. It should have set to the point that it can't push forward any longer. If it can then clip a little bit at a time until it can't. On a broken in spring you can go straight to the point it can't push forward any, just make sure you don't cut too much as that will cause the spring to get stuck in the breach face and you'll need to start the process over with a new spring.

    I'd have a few extra springs on hand before I started this process just in case you screw one up.

  11. Be careful on just cutting an arbitrary number of coils. We laid 10 factory firing pin springs down side by side and they were all different lengths. So if you take a short spring and just cut 3 coils off you could very well be cutting it too short.

    As far as getting maximum force on the firing pin from the hammer, the goal is to cut the spring as short as you can without it being too short and getting stuck in the breach face. Keep in mind a new spring will "set" after a number of reps, so if you cut the spring to the ragged edge and then put a 1000 rounds on it, it could set and end up too short. So when your trimming you want it close, but not too close to the edge.

    Also, you want dryfire the gun from SA, then push the hammer toward the firing pin. It shouldn't be able to move forward any. Do the same thing from DA. if the hammer has room to push forward you need to keep clipping coils.

    Double check your trigger screw isn't in so far that it's not getting out of the way of the hammer. To check this pull your trigger all the way to the rear. Then work your hammer back and forth, you should not feel it catching on anything. If it does back your trigger screw out a hair and keep checking until the hammer moves free. The hanging up reduces hammer speed and therefore reduces the amount of force the hammer can put on the firing pin. Obviously that's not what you want.

    Always verify force with the pencil test after you clip a spring.

  12. My understanding is that Ben is popping Winchesters consistently.

    I watched a buddy try tula's a few weeks ago with only about an 80% ignition rate.

    Cock your hammer and then take an unsharpened #2 pencil and stick it eraser end down the barrel (eraser touches firing pin). Then stick the beavertail on a table that's about belt buckle height pointing the barrel straight to the ceiling. Then pull the trigger. How high does the pencil go? I'm 6ft and my eraser ends up at my chin or slightly higher. I'm told this will pop Winchester’s, but all i have is federals so it hasn't been put to the test.

  13. Now I'm not saying mine don't end up on youtube with some Five Finger Death Punch playing in the background, but before they do they take a trip through shot coach and I learn a ton from them!

    Also, I don't think the video's with the soundtracks are bad for the sport (or any match video's really). When I was kicking around the idea of getting into competitive shooting several years ago I watched a bunch of them. Ultimately I said "hey that looks too fun not to go try it". Of course we all know there is no such thing as "trying" competitive shooting. Much like a junkies first shot of heroin, you try it once and become completely addicted. I think we should all be thinking about helping to grow the sport, and I do think youtube video's help.

  14. Necessary evil. Match video is critical for me to analyze my performance. I use the video to determine where I'm losing time and find the lowest hanging fruit to start practicing. I think video has accelerated my learning curve. It's one of those things where someone can tell you that you're doing something all day long but until you see it on film you have a hard time getting it fixed. I use the buddy system, I film him, he films me, we don't bother anyone else in the squad. If someone asks you to film and you don't want to I don't see why you can't just politely tell them no. If video is being done right it shouldn't effect anything or anyone, if it's being done wrong the squad needs to put those folks in check.

    I think 1st person video is useless so I don't bother with that.

  15. Here is the recomended spare parts list from Jim Jones at J&L Gunsmithing:

    Green Front Sight Fiber

    1 - Set of Xtreme Grip Screws

    6 - Wolff 13lb Hammer Springs

    2 - Hammer Pin Retaining Pin

    5 - Factory Extractor Springs

    2 - Extractor

    2 - Extractor Pin

    5 - Sear Springs

    2 - Slide Stop

    Firing Pins (1 - X-long, 2 EG Xtreme)

    5 - Uncut Factory Firing Pin Springs

    1 - Firing Pin Retainer/Back Plate

    3 - Firing Pin Safety Plunger Spring (spring under firing pin block)

    It's probably a little excessive, but if your spending hundreds of dollars on match fee's, hotel's, ammo, ect it would suck to go all that way and spend all that money to have to sit out because of a $5 spring.

    The down and dirty bare minium list probably looks like this:

    4- Front Sight Fibers

    2 - Wolff 13lb Hammer Springs

    1 - Factory Extractor Springs

    1 - Extractor

    1- Extractor Pin

    1- Slide Stop

    5 - Uncut Factory Firing Pin Springs

    Jim has all of this in stock, tell him Zach Savage sent you!

    ok, after reading that list I have realised my list was way too long. I don't need to carry anything to the range. I can just shoot in the same squad with this guy and bludge what I need off him!!! :)

    It's a thought, but I don't have ANY of this stuff. It's just what was recomended to me to keep on hand. I'll probably end up ordering the short list at some point in the near future, but right now I can barely afford match fee's and ammo!

×
×
  • Create New...