MTSCMike
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Posts posted by MTSCMike
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Don't know of any way other than swapping out the entire fire control group.
Seems like a lot of effort. I use the same trigger pull all the time. If you are worried about all the "liability" bullcrap that floats around the internet boards then forget about it. If you a genuinely worried that your preferred competition trigger pull is too light for you to personally handle it under stress then you probably need to rethink your trigger pull choice. You don't want an AD during the stress of competition any more than during home defense.
The other alternative is to have two guns and that would be my choice if the two trigger pulls are necessary.
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Sabre Defence Competition model piston driven w/ 18" stainless fluted barrel, MSTN Quiet Comp, Millett DMS-1 scope, Magpul accessories
My "other" AR is an almost identically configured Sabre Defence M4 with Aimpoint Comp-M4 dot optic
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Start shooting 3-gun!
Then you will learn to transition between the AR and Sig back-to-back during the same stage!
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I have all my semi-autos (CDP, ESP & SSP) adjusted for 3 to 3.5 lbs, competition and carry. Revolver is set to 6 lbs DA.
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what is the lenght of apex pins ?
just for information, I prefer factory titanium pins
competition pin (conical tip) .495
XP pin (rounded tip) .500
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I've been hearing ESP and other. Are they talking classification? Can i use 9mm shadow full dust or 9mm shadow short? What division I belong? Sorry for throwing lot of question. Last night I'm looking for site were I can get more info about IDPA, can't find answer to my question.
You need to read the IDPA Rule Book...Look here
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What's the difference from the Apex XP firing pin and the Apex Competition firing pin ?
Thanks
The XP is very slightly longer and has a spherical rounded tip like a factory pin...the competition model is very slightly shorter (but still longer than a standard pin) and has a conical tip which is supposed to help with harder primers. The only complaint I've heard with the conical tip is the occasional pierced primer. I use the XP.
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Thanks for the insight guys. I'll do the apex extended firing pin with reduced power firing pin spring and see what happens. I'm hesitant to do the bobbed hammer because it mentions fitting/filing to get a good fit which I don't think I'm competent enough for.
Assuming your 686 has the frame mounted FP and a MIM hammer...you can get a second MIM hammer for pretty cheap, whack on it, drop it in and go. And you still have the original to go back in if you decide you don't like the whacked one.
I'm doing one myself even though I bought the APEX and had it fitted...just in case I ever want to switch.
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You are correct of course...it ain't just energy, it's KINETIC energy that makes the difference.
That's what I get fer gittin' edjukated in ALABAMA!
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Secondly, it takes too long to get a proper sight picture after the gun is extended out, during the draw. Therefore, I am looking for any tips or techniques for increasing the aiming speed, with a pistol. Basically I want to set myself up so that I only need to make small adjustments, with the front sight, after the gun is extended. I have been looking into the subject and have not found much, besides some brief mentioning about finding your of Natural Point of Aim.
Also in case your are wondering, while I have shot in a competition once (with horrible results), I am not a competition shooter.
Thanks
You are probably focusing on the target and looking for the sights after you are extended (hunting for the gun). Focus on the target until you start to present your pistol but as soon as the pistol comes close to eye level (as you are pushing out) switch your focus to the front sight...you already know where the target is.
Also, take whatever time it takes to acquire a proper grip when your hands meet. It does no good to attempt to extend and shoot while trying to adjust your grip. Practice your draw stroke very slowly and precisely in front of a mirror. Build your muscle memory first and then speed up.
Third, establish your natural point of aim. Stick a target on the mirror and assume your normal posture for drawing. See the target, close your eyes, draw and point to where you think the target is. Open your eyes and see where you are pointed. Adjust your feet so you will be pointing at the target the next time. Repeat and adjust until you consistently are pointing at the target when you open your eyes. Now look at your feet and memorize that position. Are you square to the target, 15 degrees, half the length of one foot? Whatever mental picture it takes to remember that position. Whenever you can, assume that position with relationship to the first target you are going to shoot. You may not always be allowed to do so but when you are you should be faster.
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The Saint of a woman who puts up with me...
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That's a great looking piece you have there. I prefer to have a regular hammer because I do enjoy enjoy single action shooting at times. Can I assume that bobbing the hammer reduced its weight and lets it fly faster? Without that, do you think the extended firing pin alone would be enough in my situation?
Correct assumption. The lighter hammer travels faster and it apparently has more to do with the speed of the impact that lights a primer rather than the hammer mass. The old E = MC squared...and I thought school was a waste
The extended pin might be enough all by its lonesome. Only costs a few bucks to find out.
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Are you opposed to a bobbed hammer?
I put the Apex bobbed hammer and extended FP in my 625 and worked the DA trigger to 6 pounds...it lights everything I put in it. I honestly think I could drop another pound but I like it pretty good right where it is!
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That Newton guy was stupid. I am pretty sure that all of those laws of physics must have expired by now. (this is an attempt at sarcasm, heavier bullets recoil more, all other things being equal, than lighter bullets.)
Those laws were engraved at the bottom of the "Statue of Limitations"
Would Newton's laws have changed if it was an orange tree he was sitting under? I know...comparing apples to oranges 
Besides, Energy = Mass x Velocity squared so small changes in velocity can have a much greater effect on the energy produced (+ or -) compared to small changes in mass.
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Just be sure they don't go sub-sonic before they reach the target...that plays heck with bullet stability.
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...he picked up the rifle standing free hand with wind on is 2nd shot the steel went down and he just srugged his shoulders and said it on. very true story, that saw first hand.
These things happen. Once after an IDPA match I was doing some slow fire with my STI 40 cal 2011 at 20 yards for groups...just something I do to remind me I can still hit the target when I aim
On this particular Fall day there were two other shooters with me and as we were shooting a fly landed on the face of the target and just walked around. Every time we shot it would fly a short distance and land on the target again. I dared one of the others to shoot the fly and they just looked at me and said YOU shoot it. I have to admit it took 3 shots but I dead centered that fly on that 3rd shot WITH WITNESSES 
When we looked at the target there was the bullet hole with a perfectly symmetrical fly gut splatter circle around it.Now I meant to do it, said I would do it and then did it...but it was STILL blind luck. Just sayin'
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Does your R5 have a tapered scope base? If I remember correctly, my PSS w/26" barrel and 175gr GMM needed about 44 MOA up from the 100 yd zero to be close at 1000. You may run out of scope adjustment with a standard base. If you are using Mil Dots that may not be a big problem.
Even then a change of a few degrees in ambient temp or small changes in humidity could move the POI from the X to the 8 ring on a standard 1000 yard bull. For those who are used to 600 yards and in, the 1000 yard shot is a whole other animal.
Good luck and good shooting...
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My 625 has been updated!
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I will never be a Master class shooter. I'm good with that. I have competed with muzzleloaders, archery equipment, shotguns, pistols, rifles...heck I even threw knives for a while. I qualified for my 4-gun Sharpshooter Certificate in IDPA several years ago and after a 7 year break in competition I'm about to go for my 5-gun since they added the Enhanced Revolver Division.
I like to compete and I like to shoot (a lot) and I have always wanted to be very proficient with a variety of different weapons. I always knew it would hamper my climb through the ranks because to be the very best you usually have to choose just one and REALLY work at it. I am not willing to work that hard and for me variety is the spice of life.
The way I overcame the differences in platform was to pick one a year. I shot a year with 45ACP 1911's, a year with Glocks, a year with Revolvers and a year with sub-45 1911/2011's. To be honest the year with the revolver did more for my shooting than all the others combined. It made me think, plan and execute because if you screw the pooch with a revolver you lose BIG. Learning to master the long DA trigger pull and keeping those sights on target made me a better shooter and I immediately shot at an Expert level when I went back to the semi autos.
My personal advice? Pick the one that is harder to shoot well and master it. When you go back to the other you will be a much better shooter. But that's just me...I like a challenge. I may not be able to beat Sevigny with a Glock or Jarrett with a Para or Miculek with a revolver or Knapp with a shotgun but you fill a table with a variety of weapons and I'll hang in there with anybody. That means more to me than a Master Classification.
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Here's my last three...I usually had two at a time but old age and injury (non-bike related) forced me to sell. I still miss them sometimes.
I customized this Kawasaki Mean Streak...it was my last "ricer"
2004 Exotix Cycle Worx Vision 240
2006 Big Dog Pitbull
My new "motorcycle" is almost as much fun
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Does anyone know which primers they use?
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Take into consideration the OAL and, if possible, match the OAL of the heavier bullet load as well.
Guy
Unless this is a rifle load...then the OAL will have to be measured based on the new bullet profile and it's relationship to the throat and rifling dimensions.
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I checked the archive and the last revolver photo thread was very old...let's see what you have now.
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Newer shooters tend to "look" at no-shoots and then you tend to shoot what you are looking at so don't look at them. Look instead at what you want to shoot and, other than recognizing a no-shoot is just to the left or right and aiming slightly away from that side of the target, ignore the no-shoot.
Would Newton's laws have changed if it was an orange tree he was sitting under? I know...comparing apples to oranges 
On this particular Fall day there were two other shooters with me and as we were shooting a fly landed on the face of the target and just walked around. Every time we shot it would fly a short distance and land on the target again. I dared one of the others to shoot the fly and they just looked at me and said YOU shoot it. I have to admit it took 3 shots but I dead centered that fly on that 3rd shot WITH WITNESSES 
When we looked at the target there was the bullet hole with a perfectly symmetrical fly gut splatter circle around it.
My First Hammer Bob
in Revolver Forum
Posted
I bought the APEX hammer for my 625 and it is an awesome hammer but I wanted to see if I could bob the MIM hammer so it would look as nice as the APEX when installed...gotta love the Dremel!
The APEX hammer:
My "Bob-Job" (cell phone pic)...I'll post another when it is installed: