jrbet83
-
Posts
362 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by jrbet83
-
-
The picture is a recreation, but essentially the lifter is raising enough during recoil (occasionally) that the released shell is jammed/pinned into the lifter, locking the bolt back. The mag spring is fresher and full length (I don’t trim to make it easier to load) and the trigger group is stock outside the Taran lifter. What’s causing this and what’s the solution?
-
Wanting to mount a DPP on a Benelli receiver as low as possible. Not interested in the Speedbead setup. Any help would be appreciated.
-
First and only CZ, is this recessed dished spot normal? This gun has maybe 3-4K max. Having FTE and trying to track down the issue. I’ve read about all the extractor and extractor springs posts and am addressing that. Just curious about this spot.
-
My S2 disconnector is moving down in SA and contacting the frame before the trigger bow is engaging/moving the sear (take up). In the video, I have the safety on, so I don’t drop the hammer, but it does the same thing with them off. Everything is working fine, so I assume it’s functioning as intended. Just want to make sure I don’t have an issue arising.
-
Want to try one on a shotgun and want the biggest dot possible. Unfortunately they’re discontinued. Hoping someone knows a supplier that has one still sitting around.
-
On 7/9/2020 at 3:47 PM, old558 said:
I bought a Staccato P DUO and so far I am very happy with it. Not much else in it's price range that compares. I have other STI guns and never any problems.
What kind of custom 2011’s do you have?
-
On 7/2/2020 at 8:06 AM, ltdmstr said:
Some people think STI have improved since the branding change, but from what I've seen, it's pretty much the same.
This post ties in perfectly with the post about STI changing its name and changing it’s focus away from the competition world. Competition shooters are more likely to identify the less than stellar quality STI has come to be known for. They also shoot enough, to experience the quality/longevity issues that require warranty work, which costs them a bunch of money.
But in-terms of this gun, whether it’s new or used is irrelevant. That barrel isn’t timed correctly! And is going to need to see a qualified gunsmith, or you might be purchasing a new slide and barrel after it sears off the lugs.
-
On 1/24/2020 at 10:14 AM, perttime said:
USPSA:
8.1.5.2 “Double Action” means activation of the trigger causes more than a single action to occur (i.e. the hammer or striker rises or retracts, then falls).
Here’s going to be the arbitrary question....how much “rise or retracts” is enough? Depending on the sear nose angle and hammer hooks, a 1911 trigger pull can “technically” move the hammer alittle before falling. Same goes for an AR trigger. Looking at the design of the Alien trigger, the way the sear moves, I’d bet the hammer moves back ever so slightly
. I doubt this type of trigger is what USPSA originally intended in Production....but just saying. Now USPSA could go the route of the Production rifle rules in PRS and put a MSRP price limit.
-
So my CZC hammer is contacting my frame under recoil, which means (I assume) the slide is producing enough reward velocity that it’s “throwing” the hammer that extra roughly .040” to contact the frame. I’m running Atlanta Arms 147gr Elite (133pf in my G34), an 11lb CZC recoils spring and 12lb CZC hammer spring. I know these are lighter springs but nothing out of the normal for what a lot of guys are running. Any ideas, worries? I can relieve the material on the frame, so the hammer doesn’t contact anymore, but hammer would still be coming off the back/bottom of the slide.
-
6 hours ago, rowdyb said:
I got one Monday. Shot it for the first time today. I have shot one previously just a few rounds. I like this gun!
Like many, I just wish there were more direct mount optics NOT a delta point pro currently available.
You’d be a good one to compare it to an S2
-
I tried the Springer and it fit poorly to my gun and they wouldn’t honor their satisfaction guarantee with a refund, so I’d advise to try one of the other popular magwells.
-
So full story, I called SP about their newly redesigned CZ magwells. During the conversation, I was informed that my Taran basepads may not work, which I was fine with, because I was sure I could mod either the basepads or magwell to work. He told me, if you mod the magwell, I wouldn’t be able to return it (obviously). I order and get the magwell installed, and don’t like the way it fits me or the gun. Essentially the magwell doesn’t screw flush with the bottom of the frame. It only contacts a small part of the front lip of the frame/front strap and a .150” x .600” pad in the rear (by design). It touches the gun no where else. In fact “we suggest putting a drop of Loctite on the mating surface of the magwell and frame to ensure the magwell stays properly aligned.” Essentially because there’s not much clamping surface/friction, they want you to glue it to help it stay put. Being that I go from 3gun to production quite often, that didn’t really work for me, so decided I’d just send it back. No big deal, they’re a reputable company with a “satisfaction guarantee” (from their website). They had me send pictures of the magwell and now are telling me they won’t give me any type of return, because through their own words, it’s damaged and they’d have to throw it in the garbage. Pics are included, I’ll let you judge for yourself.
This isn’t a knock on SP and I’m not telling you to steer clear, just understand that your definition of satisfaction guaranteed might be alittle different then theirs and that in their eyes, installing their magwell is enough to damage it beyond resalable (I never shot it and never did any reloads). Also wanted people to get a little first hand input on how their magwell works, as there’s no info out on them. I’m sure if you were going to install it and leave it, the loctite/glue would work just fine, but something to think about if you’re someone that jumps between divisions. Cool design though, being able to run factory length grip.
-
1 hour ago, MedicAJ said:
The same can be said about Glocks, or SIGs or M&P's used in competition. Very few competitors are running ANY gun in stock configuration.
Comprehension is key
-
46 minutes ago, HOGRIDER said:
I'm shocked as the 2018 USPSA Equipment Survey shows STI as the #1 Manufacturer in Open, SS, Limited, L10.
https://uspsa.org/magazine/view//2019-00#page=34
And how many are bone stock, running stock mags with stock ammo? We’re talking about LEO firearms in this discussion. Most departments are required to run their firearms in stock configuration; one for liability reasons but also because they don’t have anyone with the ability to truly work them over. That’s why I said pretty clearly “maybe custom or tuned 2011”.
I’d never carry a 2011 by choice as my duty gun, mainly because of the weight and bulk. Having said that, I’d trust my custom 6” Limited gun with 1.180 ammo, my clean tuned STI mags with gram followers any day over my current duty weapon (even though it hasn’t given me issues yet). But a bone stock STI, with stock feed lip STI mags, and stock OAL ammo? There’s quite a few other more user friendly, reliable, easier to maintain firearms that I’d rather have.
-
On 7/9/2019 at 4:23 PM, Matt1911 said:
It's funny to me how people say they wouldn't trust an STI for duty due to reliability, but it's the most popular gun in the competition world because of its reliability and accuracy.
STI’s aren’t the mot popular gun in competition, maybe custom built/tuned 2011’s but not stock STI’s.
There’s a reason why guys spend $4k+ on a custom built 2011, $125-150 on tuned magazines, load or order custom ammo with longer OAL, case gauge all their ammo (atleast for majors), throw new springs in the gun/magazines before majors, tear their mags apart and clean them after every stage, and many other small little things that comp shooters do that the average LEO just doesn’t do or even understand.
There are threads upon threads, of people having issues with their stock STI’s, and quality control issues with their STI pistols or parts. It’s going take some time before the masses consider them a reliable stock pistol. And even at that, you have to consider the biggest issue. The weight and mass of a 2011. The coolness will start to fade the more 12 hour shifts you have to carry that extra weight and that extra mass fitting into an already tight patrol car.
-
From someone that competes/loves my custom 2011 and carries a gun for a living. I don’t understand the desire to care a 2011 as a duty gun, but to each his own.
-
If you were to machine the receiver to accept the Ethos oblong button vs the M2 round button, could you run a 2 piece ethos latch in a M2? I see in ROTH’s custom M2 receiver, you can run either, but not sure if there’s other mods going on.
-
Can anyone else name a 3 gun dedicated/directed shotgun (factory or gunsmith built) advertisement that doesn’t show a picture of the loading port? Good job Beretta!
“We have this much bigger and better loading port...... but we don’t we show you”
-
Other than Springer, does someone make one that allows you to run factory length grips? I’d get the Springer, but they state it only works with their base pads and not interested in running their base pads.
-
5 hours ago, NoKimberDave said:
You ever get this fixed up?
Still working on it, it’s headed back to him in the next few days.
-
33 minutes ago, Hansb57 said:
When I first got my S2 I was really disappointed in the SA pull. There was so much creep in the sa pull that, during shooting, I thought the gun was not cocked. (I'm only using it for target shooting and was used to light and glass breaking triggers) Within a week I ordered a CGW sear and hammer (and disco) and the SA problem was solved for 95% You cant blame a gun smith for parts he didnt change if the parts where not to your liking in the first place.
Personally I feel that a trigger job has most effect on the DA pull and not so much on SA.
Changing those parts is not to difficult but if you are not used to taking apart your gun to the last part I would advice against doing it yourself and get help from a friend who OWNS a CZ. I would also advice to get a new hammer strut so you can leave your original hammer, strut and disco intact. It's only a few dollars.
The only extra tools you need are a plat nose 2 mm punch and I used a small vice to push the disco and hammer pins in.
That is apart from the regular tools, tweezers, and a steel dental pick to get to the springs (sear and safety spring)
Watch you tube videos with the gun on your lap several times until you understand what the are doing and what they mean.
It is fulfilling!
So spend $300 on a race trigger job and then turn around and spend another $170 on a hammer, sear and disco? So essentially paying $300 to put springs in it and a little polishing?
-
So it looks like the consensus is, it’s not good lol. Now what do I do about it? The Smith wants to ship it back to him, which is commendable and the costumer service/communication has been good. My concern is that it’s pretty obvious (through messages) he thinks it’s a good trigger job and even referred to SA as crisp when he finished it. Being that when I sent him the gun, I asked for the best production gun possible, all the bells and whistles and put no financial limitations on him. I’m worried, if he’s already sent me the best he can do, why waste more time giving him another shot? I’ve brought up the idea of discussing a refund (minus parts), which I thought was fair. He’d be out no money, but he didn’t seem to keen to that. Am I being unreasonable? What would you do/suggest? Send it back, ask for some type of refund or eat the $300?
-
3 hours ago, Ludde said:
Is that the new APEX stuff?
No.
-
Paid a reputable smith to do his top tier, full race trigger job, with my number one priority being a crisp SA. Here’s two videos showing the trigger. Personally I think it’s worst in person than in videos, but hope to get some feedback on realistic S2 trigger expectations.
First video shows slow trigger pulls, second shows quicker ones, to show it’s not just when you’re babying the trigger. Also I realize that the first part of the trigger movement is the take up (which I feel is slightly more it should be with a hand fitted short reset disconnector, but’s that’s not much a concern for me).
M2 Shell Released/Pinned into Lifter w/ pic
in Shotgun - Technical
Posted
A question on what’s causing this and what’s the fix/solution.