acekc

Alliant's web site shows a max load of Unique at 1,000 fps so making major shouldn't be an issue: http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/DetailPrint.aspx?gtypeid=1&weight=180&shellid=29&bulletid=42

What it comes with is a pickup tube that has a larger blue tube around it. I think the blue tube is part vibration dampener and part blast shield but I'm not 100% sure. At any rate the inner tube is similar to a pickup tube without the plastic end - there's a cotter pin on one end that you pull so the primers can flow into the primer tube on the press. I'm not sure what you mean by "bulk ammo" but if you plan on using a press, the way people typically use the RF-100 is to have it load the tube, use those primers to load the press and then start the RF-100 loading more primers. Once it's adjusted properly it will load 100 primers in two minutes or less and its completely hands-off, so unless your reloading method is capable of using 100 primers in less than two minutes then another full tube will be waiting for you when you run out of primers. Then you start the RF-100 again before going back to the press and lather, rinse, repeat. Having said that, if you took a "regular" primer pickup tube and modified it so it had an open end opposite the end with the cotter pin you could probably line the two tubes up, pull the pin on the RF-100 tube and drop 100 primers into the other tube. Do that multiple times and you could have several tubes' worth of primers ready to go.

I purchased one of these recently and I'm pretty happy with it: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/525910/bianchi-4100-ranger-hush-rig-right-hand-medium-and-large-frame-7-1-2-to-8-1-2-barrel-revolver-nylon-black

Umm, can I change my vote from zero to one?

Berrys 147gr with 3.4gr N320 @ 1.13" OAL chronos for me at 913.4fps (StDev of 5.03) for a PF of 134.26. That's out of a 4.7" barrel so you should be fine with your Pro.

The Pro Chrono Digital kinda sorta has this already. For $50 you can buy a USB interface and connect it to your Windows laptop. The included software lets you control the chrono (delete shots/strings, advance to the next string etc.) from the laptop, and you can download the velocities and save them as CSV files for later import into Excel etc. You can also enable a window that shows the last velocity in very large text making it easy to see from a few feet away. This is the setup I use and it works great.

I have the ProChrono Digital and like it quite a bit. So long as the battery is in good shape it's pretty reliable in terms of picking up shots. If you shoot inside a lot there's an optional infrared kit, and if you have a Windows laptop there's a kit to connect the chrono to your laptop via USB to control it, download shot strings and save them to disk, etc.

Alliant shows 9gr max with a 155gr GDHP. Hornady lists 5.8gr to 8.9gr so 7gr would more or less split the difference. I once loaded a bunch of 155gr Rainiers (which are plated like the Berrys) over 6.4gr of PP at 1.125" OAL. They chronoed at 964fps out of a 4" barrel.

I currently have both a 650 and a LnL AP. Both have the case feeder, the Hornady has the bullet feeder as well. I posted an extensive summary of my thoughts on this matter in another thread so I'll direct you to that instead of repeating myself: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=146826&view=findpost&p=1646592 A few other thoughts based on your comments above: - Yes, caliber changes cost more on the Dillon, but at least some of the costs you listed apply to the Hornady as well (case feeder, case feeder plates, additional primer tubes), some are partially offset by corresponding costs on the Hornady (i.e. several LnL bushings per caliber instead of a Dillon toolhead) and some shouldn't be included in a comparison because they provide features not available on the Hornady (strong mount, bullet tray, powder check). - I would argue strongly that once you involve the case feeder, caliber changes on the Hornady are most certainly not quicker. The reason that Dillon caliber changes cost more is that the case feeder parts are tailored to each caliber and require zero adjustment. I'm going from memory but swapping the orientation of a part when going from pistol to rifle and a simple adjustment to the stage two locator are all that's required on the Dillon. Because the Hornady uses a small number of parts at each location to cover all calibers, caliber changes require a lot of monkeying around on the Hornady; trying different parts, adjusting the parts, etc. Even then I find that it's not uncommon(especially with case feeder V-blocks) to find a situation where there IS no obvious good choice among the available parts that provides reliable operation for a particular caliber. - You mention $162 for the primer quick change but I think that you only have to buy one @ $81 to be able to swap since the press comes with both small and large primer parts. I think you just take your unused primer parts, install them into the $81 assembly and wind up with two complete assemblies. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, I only load small primers on my 650 right now. - After using a LnL the 650's system of chucking unused primers aside is annoying. The LnL does feed the primer to the shellplate if there is no round present, but if no case is primed it just pulls it back and sticks the same primer out there again until it gets used. All is not rosy with the LnL primer system however - the area under the primer seater gets clogged with debris easily, jamming the press when it tried to index and sometimes forcing you to remove the seater assembly from the press entirely and disassemble it to clean it. Over time the bottom of the seater digs a hole into the frame of the press and will eventually result in high primers unless you use a piece of metal like a washer to keep the bottom of the seater out of the hole. - With some polishing compounds and a little TLC the Dillon powder measures can be made to throw very consistently in my experience. I used a scale with 0.02gr resolution and I've seen as little as +/- 0.06gr variance with pistol loads. - Since getting the Dillon I'm seeing the point of the bullet feeder less and less. Even with a bullet feeder I want to visually inspect the powder level before the bullet drops, so I'm pausing between handle pulls to look in each case. With the bullet tray for the 650 I can grab a bullet as I'm pulling the handle and plop it on the case without really pausing any longer than I would to look at the powder level. Meanwhile the bullet feeder is loud, never shuts off and requires fiddling that significantly increases the time for caliber changes. After I bought my LnL but before I got the Dillon, I used to look at things the same way it sounds like you're looking at them now. I looked at the features, cost, etc. of the Hornady vs. the Dillon, looked at the Dillon annoyances that people complained about (spent primers flipping on the floor, feeding primers with or without a case, etc.) and scratched my head and said "I don't get it." Now that I have the 650 I get it - I have far fewer stoppages with the 650 than I ever had with the LnL, and the ones I do have are almost certainly due to my bench needing to be shored up better. I still have the LnL and don't plan on getting rid of it, but I would much rather load on the 650.

I use the stainless media with the Thumler's Tumbler. I can do around 200-250 pieces of pistol brass depending on caliber; that's OK for now but I am pondering getting a cement mixer and taking it up a notch or ten. I do knock out the primers beforehand using a Lee universal decapper die - I use my progressive so it goes quickly. One thing I've noticed as that unless you're cleaning nasty, corroded brass that has been sitting outside for a couple of years, an hour in the tumbler gets them 95% of the way there if not better. You might spot a couple of stubborn bits of crud here and there but generally they look great inside and out. As a result I never tumble a batch for more than an hour anymore. Once it's done I dump out as much of the water as I can without spilling media/brass and then fill it and dump it one more time - this gets nearly all of the soap off. Separating is pretty easy if you already have a crank-style separator like the Frankford Arsenal unit. You just fill the bucket up with water until the level is an inch or so below the rim - this puts the basket about halfway in the water. Throw the brass in, lock the basket and spin it around like you would to separate out dry media - all the steel pins fall to the bottom of the bucket. The brass can be put in an oven on low heat or left to dry in the sun. Check the flash holes of a few pieces to make sure they're dry - the flash hole tends to capture a drop of water and hold onto it. Have you used this yet? What size is the mixer and how much stainless media do you use with it?

The 1.225" OAL in the Hornady manual is for the XTP; Hornady lists an OAL of 1.135" for the SWC which matches Hodgdon's OAL for the same bullet. Powder weight differences between different manuals are pretty common - I usually consult multiple sources to get a feel for the overall weight range and then start low and work up with a chrono while looking for pressure signs. More than likely the differences are due to Hornady and Hodgdon using different guns for their testing. Hornady used a Colt Government Model which has a barrel length of around 5". AFAIK Hodgdon doesn't provide any information on the gun they use for testing a particular caliber, but if they used a gun with a longer barrel it would explain why they got similar velocities with 0.6gr less powder.

Major and minor are scored differently for non-A hits: Zone Major Minor A 5 5 B 4 3 C 4 3 D 2 1 M -10 -10 NS -10 -10

Are you talking about Super-X? According to their web site Winchcester only has Super-X or USA ammo for the 38 Super. The Super-X is $41 per box of 50 at Cheaper Than Dirt. The USA stuff (white box) is $28 per box of 50. According to the specs and CTD the two are very close to one another in terms of muzzle energy, but that may not tell the whole story. Given the number of ports in the Elite Gold, I wouldn't be surprised if one cartridge worked in the gun while another didn't even if their muzzle energies were the same. I hope I'm wrong but I doubt you'll find anyone using Winchester factory ammo with a Gold Team in 38 Super. My impression is that the vast majority of people who shoot 38 Super Open guns reload themselves or purchase specialty ammo like the Atlanta Arms stuff.

Call EAA and see what they have to say. They're the only current source of barrels AFAIK. I suspect that if they can provide you with a "factory ammo" barrel you'll have to send in your slide so the barrel can be fit to it. I'd be curious to know what they say with regard to why your gun only came with one barrel since other guns of the same type were obviously sold with two.

Take a look at this auction which has pictures of the two barrels that came with my Gold Team: http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=273387000 You can see that the barrel installed in the gun has no popple holes (small ports) in the barrel and none in the comp, and the comp has only a single port. This is the barrel that is labeled "Factory Ammunition Only." The other barrel shown is presumably just like the one that came with your gun, and you'll note that the one in the auction photos says "Non-Factory Ammunition." Factory 38 Super ammunition is intended for guns without ports or compensators and typically uses smaller amounts of faster-burning powder than the ammunition that people reload for their Open guns. I'm betting that the ports and comp are bleeding off too much pressure from the factory ammo and that's why you're getting stovepipes and a slide that won't lock back on the last round. If you haven't yet I suggest field stripping your gun and looking to see if the barrel says "Non-Factory Ammunition" on the side opposite the ejection port. I have no idea why your gun came with only one barrel while mine came with two. I suggest calling EAA on that one.

Just so we're clear can you describe your barrel or take a picture? I have a Gold Team in 38 Super and it came with two barrels. One has no holes drilled in the barrel and the comp has only one port. That barrel is labeled "Factory Ammunition Only." The other barrel has eight holes in the barrel, two holes of the same size in the compensator and the comp has two large ports as well. That barrel is labeled "38 SA." Does either of these describe your barrel and if so which?

Is it necessary to remove the block to use this part? I'd rather leave the block in if possible. Henning's web site makes no mention of having to remove the block to use the XL firing pin.

I know I can call Henning tomorrow but I figured I'd check to see if anyone here has any advice. I'm trying to install the Henning extra long firing pin in my Elite Limited and I can't get it past the firing pin block. The Henning pin (pic here: http://www.henningshootsguns.com/shop/images/henning/170/henning.xlfp.JPG) has two wider round areas on the pin, one near the end and one closer to the center. It's the center one that won't go past the firing pin block. I've tried pressing on the block while looking down the tunnel where the firing pin sits to make the opening as large as possible but it's not enough. The round area on the Henning pin is 0.25" while the stock pin is rounded on three sides but has a flat side that is intended to sit at 3 o'clock (against the firing pin block) when looking down the sights. Because of this flat spot the stock pin measures 0.226" or so. The pin didn't come with any instructions and unlike some of the other parts on Henning's site I could't find an install video either. Does anyone have any ideas? I actually purchased two of these pins and both have the same measurements/shape relative to the stock pin.

Did your Gold Team come with two barrels? If so are you using the shorter barrel intended for factory ammunition? Given the number of ports in the longer Gold Team barrel I could see it bleeding off too much pressure from factory ammunition to reliably cycle the slide and/or lock back on the last round.

Your load seems a little on the low side: Alliant says 6.3gr max and reduce by 10% for a minimum load (5.7gr). Nosler says 5.1gr min 6.1gr max. Speer says 5.6gr min 6.3gr max. Sierra says 4.9gr min 6.6gr max. Hornady has no loads for Unique with a 115gr bullet. The OAL's in the sources above are significantly shorter than yours as well, 1.1" to 1.135" depending on the bullet used. Assuming the same powder charge, the shorter OAL's in the above loads means they'll have higher pressures than you'll get at 1.165" OAL. I don't think you'll have to worry about bullets stuck in the barrel or anything but it might not cycle properly. For a chrono I recommend the Pro Chrono Digital. It has an optional infrared system for chronographing loads indoors as well as an available USB interface and software so you can run the chrono from a laptop and download and save the results.

The only reason is a lack of stations. Even with the PTX many people have to compromise with a bullet feeder, since they have to choose between a powder check die or a separate crimp die. I'm guessing that you want to do the following? 1. Resize/Deprime 2. Expand 3. Powder Drop 4. Bullet Feed 5. Seat/Crimp I don't see why that wouldn't work except for the typical reason, which is that most people don't have much success seating and crimping at the same time. I assuming the ring to which you're referring is the spring that goes around the shellplate and holds in the brass? Why does using the PTX have any effect on that? I've found the PTX to be somewhat finicky to set up but I haven't seen a negative effect on the lifetime of the retaining spring since I started using it. One thing I've found that helps the PTX immensely is to polish the area of the PTX expander that contacts the brass. I started with 500 grit sandpaper and then moved to Nevr-Dull and finished with Flitz on a rag. Before I did this the PTX expander would "hang onto" the brass as the ram was on its way down, requiring a lot of force to separate the two. After polishing the two separate cleanly with the same pressure I used before switching to the PTX.

The problem is that when Apple added Ping and all that other lovely stuff, they changed the format of the library file. When you upgraded to 10 it automatically changed the format of your 9.2 library to make it compatible with 10, which made it incompatible with 9.2. That means that you can't just point 9.2 at your 10 library because it won't understand it anymore. The procedure linked earlier uses an old copy of your library file (one taken before 10 changed the format) created by the system. If that fails then it recreates your library file using a special backup file that iTunes creates alongside the library file itself. I work with computers for a living and have gone through this process and it's not much fun. I'm guessing that iTunes 9.2 created a new blank library file when you ran it. You can always try just finding the folder where your music files are and dragging and dropping that folder into the iTunes window. It should import all your music into the new library though you may lose some settings. It's a low-risk operation though - it shouldn't do anything to your iTunes 10 setup, so if you try it and too many things are missing then you can go back to 10. If it's good enough you can stick with 9.2.

From Brian's Dillon info page: When seated (or if you load standing), the machine's handle (at rest) should be even with your shoulder. For the 550 and the 650, without the Strong Mount and with the machine "at rest" (handle up), both handles (Ball or Roller) are approximately 7.5 to 8 inches above the bench. The 550/650 Strong Mount raises both machines 8.5 inches off the bench. The 650 ONLY Strong Mount raises the 650 6.5 inches off the bench. Measuring your bench relative your shoulder along with the information above should give you a good idea on the strong mount. Unless you think it's going to make the press way too tall (unlikely since you're 6'2") I say get it if only so you can add the bullet tray. I think having a tray of bullets a few inches from where you're placing them helps tremendously.

If you look at the cost of a jug of VV powder compared to a jug of another powder the VV seems very expensive but a little perspective may be in order: VV's load data for 147gr 9mm is 3.1-3.9 so you're right in the middle. Silhouette (picked at random but other powders are probably similar in price) is 3.9-4.6 so let's say you'd use 4.3gr of that. 4 pounds of N340 is $96.70 @ Powder Valley while 4 pounds of Silhouette is $63. 4 pounds of N340 loads 8,000 rounds while 4 pounds of Silhouette loads 6,512 rounds. That makes the cost of N340 $12.09 per thousand rounds while Silhouette is $9.67 per thousand rounds. That's a difference of $2.42 per thousand or slightly less than one penny per four rounds. I'm not getting into a qualitative discussion of N340 vs. Silhouette or anything else, I'm just saying that if you like N340 (and it sounds like you do) is it worth messing around for an extra $2.42 per thousand rounds?