mioduz

Im having an issue that is happening more and more often. History: i got this pistol 2 years ago and for over a year it ran flawlessly with 38 super and super comp brass intermixed. The malfunctions started maybe once per match and increased in repetitiveness. I think im to the point that i can not make it through two big sticks without a failure. Now as to the issue. Brass is not leaving the ejection port completely. When there isnt a failure brass ejects and travels what i would say is an acceptable distance (5-10 ft) The second picture where the brass is vertical was the last shot in mag for what that is worth. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

we shoot out at gem city first sunday of the month. Also we shoot friday nights (and mornings) indoors every other friday. PM me if you have any questions or need directions or anything of the sort

I am building an open 9mm 2011. I think I am going to build primarily for 9mm Minor as alot of the matches I shoot are just steel and they do not score any differently for major and minor. With that being said if I want to run Major in the future other than a recoil spring change, is there anything else that would change?

I loaded some 147gr 9mm with N320 a few years back (to actually be used with a 9mm carbine). I started shooting production a few months back and found the load to work well in my gun (M&P Pro). But I am comming down to the bottom of my ammo can so I need to look into a new load. VV N320 is not available around me and I dont feel like paying the hazmat fee for a pound of powder. What is a good powder to replace it with?

I have some 147gr FM laying around. Anyone have a recipe for 147 and any powder but vv. Its not available here and would rather not pay to have it shipped

I just got the ced 7000 pro. The reason I got it was 2 fold. 1 adjust settings such as sensitivity and par are far easier on any ced model compared to my other timer a pact club timer. 2nd reason is that I am still fairly new to competitive shooting and must practice alot. The ced allows me to enter my score directly after shooting a practice stage that I set up. I can shoot it 2-3 times in a row and see where I get the best score in relation to speed vs accuracy. I have not been able to use the ced much as I got it since Christmas but it looks to do everything promised

Ive been shooting production for a couple months burning up a stock pile of 115 gr factory ammo. I am running to the end of this ammo and looking for a good starting point. What is everyone using in the M&P Pro's?

I received both holsters and reviewed them. And as every one already said the daa is leaps and bounds above the ghost. I can now switch from limited to open in a matter of. Seconds

I am new to loading .40. Just got my first limited gun. Cant decide where to start a load. What are the advantages of shooting a molly coated bullet instead of FMJ or HP. Other than cost of course. Will the gun recoil differently based on the fact it takes less of a powder charge?

I have only ever reloaded Jacketed bullets, so excuse my simple question but, are there any downsides to loading a molly bullet to shoot in limited?

Are there any other negatives about shooting lead? How often do you have to clean the molly? Should I expect to see the same level of accuracy in lead as i do in a jacketed bullet? What are the positives for shooting a HP?

Well as it turns out I ordered the DAA Racemaster last week, and my dad got me a ghost for christmas. Lucky me. I will evaluate both and make a decision. However I think from all the comments here i will be keeping the DAA. Think shooters connection will credit me for the Ghost? I think i would like to pick up a CED 7000 Pro from them.

Thank you. Ok my next question is what are the benefits and downfalls of shooting the moly coated lead bullets. I assume the only positive is the Cost of raw materials. Is lead buildup in the barrel an issue?

What about in a limited gun. I am starting to work a load up for .40 limited gun. Is there any benefit for running a hp, or will a FMJ shoot just as well

Jumped head first into competitive shooting this summer with an open gun in 38 super. I worked up a load using zero 125 gr hollow points because it seamed as though it was a very popular bullet to run. My question is why run hp's? My only guess was so there was no exposed lead at the base of the bullet. What type of bullet do you run and why?

Yes I do shoot at Gem City. Just started shooting this spring. Trying to work my way up. I will get a lot of practice over winter shooting the Friday night shoots and the normal matches. My dad who shoots with me also has a ghost. I like its retention and its draw and its size. I just didnt care for how the unit locks. His was somewhat hard to get into that locked position. Easiest way took two hands, which is not a deal breaker, but it seams as though the Race Master may be easier, and from what I am hearing have better lockup.

I have been using an old Bianchi Hemisphere that was included with my open gun for about a year now. I just received my first limited gun and want to consolidate gear so that I can run both my open gun and limited gun off the same belt. I have been reading a lot of reviews. I had my mind kind of set on a Ghost holster until I borrowed one to use. The lock is somewhat fidgety to get on. Not a huge concern but it was there. I started looking at other options and I guess I have narrowed it down to the Ghost and the DAA Race Master. Can anyone with experience with both chime in and tell me their thoughts. I searched high and low and could not find any threads directly comparing the two.

Yes I had that issue as well. I have taken out the buffer and plan to shoot and confirm that many of my issues have been solved. Hopefully they have

I purchased a limited gun (STI built by dawson in early 90s says the ad) and it has a few issues. One of which is if the slide stop is holding the slide, racking the slide will not drop the slide stop out of position to let the slide fall free. At first I thought the ramp on the "muzzle end" of the slide stop had worn or been machined to far for some reason. Then I got to thinking maybe the slide was just not comming back far enough. I removed a recoil buffer between my recoil spring and guide rod this morning and sure enough the slide catch now disengages when I rack the slide. My question is does that recoil buffer need to be in place to prevent damage from recoil?

Are you losing the time on the draw (buzzer to first shot); or the second shot (adjusting your grip after the first shot); or on the splits; or on the running; or on the reload? Any jams? If you can figure that out, it's real easy to figure out where to spend your time practicing. Wish I could shoot 70% Jack I guess I will have to take a better look at where I am loosing the time. I know i can speed up my draw a bit with some practice in my basement. I shoot 70% of the best shooter at the club, I am not sure they are the best shooters so im not sure I would fair as well in a bigger club. No shooters at the club are GM or M. Im shooting 70% of an A shooter typically

Started shooting this spring. I am doing fair but want to improve. I typically shoot around 70% with my open gun. My hits seam to be good as I typically have approximatly the same number of points as the top shooter. My time is typically 2-3 seconds behind the top guns though. And that is on a stage that I had no screw ups and ran smoothly. Is there any techniques I should practice to shoot more quickly. 2-3 Seconds is a lot of time to chop off a good run it seams .

I just started shooting competitively this year. I primarily shoot open class major. I thought I was progressing well in my shooting. Shooting near the bottom of the crowd around the C Class shooters sometimes as high as the B's. I understand that I am not going to be todd jarret over night. But then I decided just for fun to shoot limited minor at the last match with an smith M&P 9mm. I surprisingly smoked my open score. Any suggestions where to start looking to improve my open score. I know already i need to practice more drawing and dry firing so i can find the red dot more easily.

just started shooting USPSA this summer. shot 3 matches thus far in open class. One of the big problems i am having is not releasing the trigger for it to reset. After shooting some targets ill line up on the next target and flinch as i try to pull the trigger but it goes nowhere. I would assume this is because my strong hand grip is to tense and i am not relaxing enough. Any tips to help me relax a bit while i shoot.

Just started shooting uspsa this year. First and second match qualifiers required weak hand shooting. Be sure to practice strong hand draw transitions to weak and fire

I have the apex competition trigger on my m&p 9mm. I believe it breaks around of 2 lbs and I absolutely love it