mioduz
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Posts posted by mioduz
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I am wanting to get into shooting carry optics.
I havent been able to fully decide what gun i want to dedicate to this task and i keep bouncing between a sig x5 legion and a CZ75 shadow 2
Since im a cheap SOB Im wondering if anyone has ever setup the QLS off of a drop mount like a BOSS DOH.
The objective being that I can swap holsters between the sig and CZ leaving the remainder of the belt untouched
The negatives taht I can think of off hand are that the offset may become a bit much with the QLS. Also they are not as rigid (but im not likely good enough to notice that in my score)
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I'm torn not having hands on either of these which to choose.
Any opinion?
Romeo 3 MAX or XL havent quite decided yet.
The RTS2 is about half the price but thats irrelevant if it sucks
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Don't know why I thought this machine was gonna be less headaches. Seams like they all are.
Anyway. Just got a roll sizer and my 223 cases are comming out with a bell. I put a few on my comparator. One of these has been through a full length size die after roll size as well
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Looking for some general advice on how to setup the Hornady case feeder on a mark 7 in .223 over 2K rph. I really struggle to maintain 2K/hr. Realistically 1500 is the max i can reliably feed at.
Ive tried the 3d printed ramp, and the spring deflector in many orientations and im kinda frustrated.
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I need an additional case activated powder measure for my Evo (pistol). I have one on order from mark 7 but their lead time is pretty long (weeks). Is the Hornady, or Dillon just as. Good or better???? I've heard mixxed reviews
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Does anyone anyone happen to have the files to 3d print steyrarms 9mm tool head stand??
I've messaged him but he hasn't read it yet, and thingiverse has an error on the 9mm tool head stand
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4 minutes ago, Don_B said:
55 fmj bullets tend to not be very accurate. Try a 55 hp or polymer tipped bullet.
Is 3" really all to expect??. I know milspec on xm193 is 4". I just thought I could do significantly better
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1 hour ago, Ken6PPC said:
Check the concentricity of your loaded rounds. I bet there will be room for improvement there... If the bullet tip wobbles when you roll it on a flat piece of glass held at eye level, you have found one of your problems, perhaps the biggest one.
If you can ditch your "M" expanding die, that may help your concentricity.
Sorting your brass by headstamp and number of firings will help too.
HP's and Ballistic Tip bullets usually shoot better than FMJ's. I know they aren't as cheap as FMJ's, but if accuracy is what you are looking for, better bullets definitely help.
I do get "decent" accuracy with Hornady 55 FMJ's, but I'm still only getting around 2 MOA. I don't know if those bullets are capable of much better, especially in a fast twist rate barrel.
I use straight-line Wilson dies and an arbor press to seat bullets for my most accurate rifle rounds. Yeah, it's slow, but it yields more concentric loaded rounds, and more concentric rounds group better.
I spun the sized (unloaded) cases and got pretty much the same reading as loaded ammo
Spun the cases in a v block with an indicator on neck.
Avg .003
High .006
What is acceptable amount for non match grade ammo
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6 minutes ago, DesertTortoise said:
Some 1:7 barrels don't like short 55 grain bullets. Will it shoot commercial ammo of that weight accurately?
My dillemma is all my guns are set up with 1:7 pretty much. Pretty annoying when you wanna just plink with cheap ammo
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6 minutes ago, TonytheTiger said:
Never heard of a 69gr Amax.
Are you using mixed brass?
You appear to be correct (I loaded these a LONG time ago and apparently I dont recall correctly)
After checking on what is actually made im guessing they are actually 60Gr Vmax bullet (I should pull one to find out for sure)
Yes mixed Brass
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1 minute ago, ChuckS said:
Did you try any commercial 55 gr stuff?
I need to...
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Just now, ChuckS said:
What can it do with 55 Gr?
3" Avg "group" 5 and 10 shot groups
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Just now, ChuckS said:
Yeah. Is your rifle any good?
shooting a 69gr amax yields 1" group
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I am trying to develop a overall Cheap-o 55 Gr Load that has as good as I can achieve accuracy. My efforts have been relatively fruitless in gaining more accuracy.
Lighting, Hornady, and Berry 55gr (no discernible difference in accuracy)
24.8-.25.8 Gr H335 (2700-3100 FPS)
Standard deviations in the mid 30's
Groups have yet to be less than 2" at 100
All Dies are LEE except for M-Die (optional)
Currently Loading on a XL 650.
Resized with LEE Sizing Die
Trim to 1.750
M-Die (optional if using bullet feeder)
CCI400 Primer
Powder drop H335 25.4 Gr
Seating with Lee Die to Canelure depth (i cant recall the exact measurement off top of my head)
Lee Factory Crimp Die
MY ASSUMPTIONS:
1. My SD numbers are reasonable for cheap bulk type ammo so my powder and throw are doing their job
2. I've settled in around 28-2900 FPS feeling that should be a good speed
3. I should be able to create a load with sub 2" accuracy at 100 yds with these components
4. Lee dies work just as well as more expensive dies for the intended purpose
Im tempted to try different dies.....becasue i feel like everything else is in line......but I also dont beleive that the LEE dies really could be at fault.
Your thoughts??
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1 minute ago, Dwbsig said:
I gotcha I haven’t got into mass production of rifle ammo yet I got some used stuff tool head; dies-for my 1050 to start just done it yet.
Additionally if using a press mounted trimmer, the trim die is a full length sizer, without an explpander so the neck needs resized after trimming
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15 minutes ago, Dwbsig said:
Not trying to be a smart mouth but I don’t understand what a m die is for, started loading in the late seventies and all I’ve use is a sizing and seating die. I got a a bolt gun that shoots 1/4 inch groups. I would get ride of the m die unless maybe you are using it for lead bullets. Just size and use a chafer tool before seating your bullet.
seams like bullet feeders really need some case flair for optional function.
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I have searched but can't seam to find an answer as to how to adjust the timing of the shell plate to the primer position. The primer pushing assembly feels to be in good alignment with the primer plate. However the shell plate is off center
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Trying to chase poor accuracy issues. Using a lyman m die to prep the case neck. The picture shows the flair as well as a bullet placed on top, no seating done. Too much flair??
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Ive reloaded at a more typical volume for years but getting my ducks in a row to do a higher volume now. For bulk type ammo I've never used anything but Lee and Hornady dies. They seam to have always worked for me so I had no complaints, but maybe there is more to this than I know
Asking if the more expensive dies such as lyman or mighty armory are worth it for non match grade loads?
Experience/opinions?
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I got a good deal on some .223 "Processed" brass that had been sized, trimmed, swagged and tumbled. But about 10% of the brass still needs to have primer pocket relieved due to crimp. Im not complaining (it was a really good deal), just wondering what other people experience has been.
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Curious if you think think the mark 7 is worth the premium cost that is associated with it since they are next to each other
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23 minutes ago, m700 said:
Can you get the revo priming system on the evo?
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
you can but its around $2500ish (which is insane in my opinion)
The new system they are developing is sub $500 i beleive
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19 minutes ago, Intheshaw1 said:
With the Evo, they are supposed to be coming out with a cheaper version of the Revo priming systems from what I've seen on here, looks like same design just smaller capacity. This may sway your opinion on the Evo as I believe it's a dump and go system.
I own neither press but have been eyeballing an Evo before all this Covid craziness started.
Yes I have spoke with the people at mark 7. To my knowledge the Revo primer colator is simmilar to a dillon primer tube filler in function. Where as the new primer tray they are releaseing later this year will be more like an automated primer flip tray oscillating back and forth. the Cost is relatively affordable for the addition (compared to the Revo primer option) It is one of the driving factors for me looking at the Mark 7 evo
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36 minutes ago, AHI said:
Dont know if I can get it to the correct words .But hear goes. The one pass does and does not work.
Little things like there will be some brass shavings in the case after trimming . It takes a fairly heavy lube
to size cases in a small body die . This takes a little more time to clean off than I like to tumble loaded ammo.
Have found over years of processing brass that two light swaggings is better than one hard swagging. The one time
I be leave wet cleaning is is useful is to clean primer pockets .Thear are more little things its all in the details.
650 there are those that will disagree. but all the plastic parts and constant timing issues . is why
So taking the the 1 pass element out of the Mark 7 press (im on the fence as to whether i was planning on doing that anyway)
Mark 7 Pro's
Smoother operation (??????) with a more integrated automation plan
A few more options for what dies you use and where you can use them
Dillon Pro's
Cost
Established brand and availability of snagging good deals on used accessories on classifieds and ebay etc etc
Any opinions???
As I see it there is about a $1k Premium between the two options up front. But there is a residual cost increase as the caliber changes and tool heads on the mark 7 carry a premium that i will have to pay for theoretically years down the road. Are these cost premiums worth the performance it offers
First time loading new Lapua brass questions
in General Reloading
Posted
This will be the first time I have use new (Lapua small rifle primer) brass. Loading 6.5 creedmoor. I was previously using Hornady fired brass.
I conducted ladder test to find a stable node to load in the past with Hornady brass. Does all that data get thrown in the garbage can and I start over??
Does the brass all need to be once fired and resized before any data collection and load development can begin. I just measured the shoulder length of fired brass to Lapua and the Lapua is about .002 smaller which is what I typically aim to resize to. (If that helps)