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About gigamortis

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    Finally read the FAQs

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    Gerald Douglas

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  1. I'm an IDPA SO and would have scored it 10 down with no PEs. If I was the shooter on this scenario and got scored like that, I would have left the match right then and there and never come back. There's too many other IDPA matches within driving distance to me to put up with such a discouraging experience like that. With douchebag SOs like this one, its no wonder IDPA is losing so many members to USPSA.
  2. I use a 5/8" deep wall socket without any gun disassembly. Place the socket square drive side down on your scale. Place your pistol muzzle over the top of the socket and press down just shy of bottoming out your slide travel. Your barrel will simply extend into the deep wall socket unhindered. Observe your scale reading.
  3. Once I got into my mid to late 40's, my front sight got rather blurry right along with any reading within arms length. I'm still at 20/20 in my right dominant eye at distance. I took a chance on some full lens +1.0 diopter safety glasses found here: https://www.amazon.com/Elvex-RX-500C-1-0-Magnifier-Black-Temple/dp/B00KSJNLO0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1514869345&sr=8-1&keywords=elvex+1.0+safety+glasses They brought my front sight into focus without degrading my target distance focus and I can run through stages like I did in my younger years. I use the same glasses with a +1.5 diopter on my reloading bench, but target distances are blurry at this strength for me despite a very sharp front sight focus with these.
  4. I used to use the old Australian Clays exclusively for .45 ACP. When the Canadian Clays replaced the Australian stuff, I found I couldn't make major with it and the metering consistency was looser, like +/- 0.2 grains from desired! The old Clays was +/- 0.1gr on metering consistency. Now that I have switched to Nitro 100 NF, I am more satisfied with this powder than even the original Australian Clays. Metering is super consistent and my major pf load is only 0.1 gr less than my original Clays load. Soft recoil and accurate without the hot weather pressure spikes.
  5. My major PF load is a Bayou Bullets 230gr RN over 3.6 grains of Accurate Nitro 100 NF for 740fps. Just as soft as the old formula Clays if not softer and meters like a dream. It doesn't have the hot weather pressure spikes of Clays either. I have heard a lot of good things about E3, but been nervous about no published pistol loads for it yet.
  6. +1 here on missing the Postal Match.
  7. If you can find some, give Accurate Nitro 100 NF a try. Just as soft if not softer than Clays with much better metering. 3.5gr pushing a Bayou 230 RN is good for 740 fps out of my 5" Kimber. Accurate's starting load is 3.6gr at 770 fps, but we don't need quite that much for major pf. I have ran a couple of matches using the 3.5gr load and it is very consistent with no soot down the sides of the cases.
  8. Both powders at first glance are very similar in appearance. However, it takes me 4.2 gr of WST to make major pushing a Bayou 230 RN. The Nitro 100 only takes 3.5 gr for the same 740 fps out of my Kimber. The recoil impulse of the Nitro 100 is noticeably lighter than my old WST load.
  9. It will state made in Canada on the label if it is the new stuff. The four 1lb bottles that I tried were all labeled as made in Canada. As my search for a worthy Clays substitute went on, I tried some Accurate Nitro 100 NF. The powder kernels are half the size of Clays so it meters very consistently. With 3.5 gr of Nitro 100 behind a 230 Bayou, a 5 shot average runs 740 fps in my 5" Kimber. The load chart tops out at 4.0 gr, so there is plenty of headroom. Just as soft shooting as Clays if not softer. I have another post on this forum about this powder.
  10. For the classifier, the targets (threats) that you engaged from 20 yards are technically going to be "new" threats when engaging the very same ones from 15 yards.....so some official clarification would be nice. My bet is on finishing the reload before leaving cover.
  11. I'm surprised that no one has mentioned the Meprolight TruDot RDS. It has an EOTech form factor, with an even larger FOV. Battery life is Aimpoint phenomenal and has auto shutoff after 20-30 minutes, and cuts itself back on with the slightest motion. Glass is clear with no tint at all. 1.8 MOA dot size powered by a single AA battery. I leave mine on all the time just like an Aimpoint. I love mine.
  12. After the new Canadian Clays disappointment I experienced a few weeks ago, I decided to try some Accurate Nitro 100 NF. According to Accurate's load data for a 230gr LRN, 3.6gr is starting load at 770fps, and a max load of 4.0gr at 880fps. I loaded up a few at .1gr below the starting load since I only need to make major at around 720fps. I was pleasantly rewarded with a 5 shot average of 740fps with just a 20fps extreme spread. Very soft recoil if not equal to or softer than Australian Clays. Metering is superb due to the small flakes. Very clean burning, too. I ran a few of these loads back to back with my old WST load (740fps also) out of the same magazine and the recoil was noticeably less with the Nitro 100 loads. With Hodgdon missing the mark with their recent Canadian Clays formula, this Nitro 100 NF looks to be a winner all around! I'll be shooting my first match with these Nitro 100 loads this weekend for a thorough test.
  13. I thought I was in heaven a couple weeks ago when I found 4 pounds of Clays on a LGS shelf since I haven't seen any at all for a couple of years. I came home and loaded up a few test rounds of my old reliable load of 3.8gr behind a Bayou 230 RN. To my disappointment, a 5 round average only came out to 670fps. I used to get 740fps with the old Australian Clays. I went up to book max of 4.0gr and only got 705fps average. Not enough for major at all. On top of that, metering consistency was way off at +/- .2gr. For the old formula Clays through the same powder measure. +/- .1gr was the norm. For me, this new Canadian Clays is definitely not the same.
  14. Just tried some Titewad under some 230gr Bayous today. Metering and ES are awesome, but book max of 3.3gr only gives me 700fps out of a 5" 1911. Stupid soft load though, but not enough for major. Tried sneaking over max up to 3.6gr since I load .040" longer than Hodgdon's data, but was only seeing 740fps. It's discouraging since Hodgdon says 3.3gr should give 767fps.
  15. Thanks to the excellent info in this thread, I finally got around to re-loacating the pivot point in my G41. I've always done trigger pull lightening on small frame Glocks in the past and have been fairly happy achieving 3.5 to 4.0 lb trigger pulls with just connectors and springs. However, my G41 is the 3rd large frame model that I have had an opportunity to drop the same parts combination in, but large frames for me just end up at about 1 lb heavier pulls than what I have obtained with small frames. On my G41, I already have been running the Ghost 3.3 lb connector with the trim to fit overtravel tab along with a 5 lb striker spring, 6 lb Wolff trigger spring, and a Lightning Strike Striker. I had to go to the light striker and 5 lb striker spring in order to have 100% ignition with Remington LPP. Trigger pull after these mods came in at 4lbs-10oz, but this weight causes me fits at speed as compared to the lighter 3lb-10oz pull on my G34. I started off with some layout work. I decided to work with the as factory shoe and bar in order to have the stock geometry in place to make a reference mark. With the slide off the frame and the trigger bar to the rear against my overtravel stop, I slightly pulled the trigger forward for a little insurance room and scribed a line against the inside of the trigger bar right along and behind the trigger shoe. This line let me be able to take the shoe and bar out of the frame and still be able to ID the trigger bar to shoe angle at the point of trigger break. With the rear part of the trigger flat against one jaw of my drill press cross vise. I aligned my drill bit with the factory pivot pin. With a dial indicator on the side of the vise, I dialed in .125" of travel, While drilling the new hole higher in the trigger shoe, I held the trigger bar at the angle indicated by my earlier scribe mark. When I punched through the first side of the plastic shoe, I was able to make a mark on the trigger bar at the shoe to bar angle that represented the trigger break angle. I then removed the trigger bar from the shoe and center punched the drill bit mark for the new hole. I then drilled the new bar hole and ground the old hole area off. Re-assmebled everything with the new hole location and ended up with a 3lb-10oz pull with perfect function and all safeties intact. The back of the trigger shoe just barely contacts the frame at the same timing that the trigger bar makes contact with my existing overtravel stop. Good thing for the little bit of insurance I accounted for earler! I can't wait to get to the range and try it out! Thanks Joe D and all the others that contributed to this thread!
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