thegeneric
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SOLUTION: New Balance Lacrosse Cleats - Rush V3 Mid
- Very Very stable for me.
- The uppers are stiff, but flexible enough to mold to my footshape - they're fully broken in after one match
- Amazing traction, by far, bar none, 100% confidence in full send
- Ankle support without impacting agility - these are mid-tops, but the material for that part of the shoe is even more flexible vs the rest of the upper.
- Durability - don't know yet, but since these are made for abusive movement, I assume they'll be pretty good in that department.
- Sizing - as far as my research could tell NB are one of few companies that offer wide sized cleats, and their standard size has the most generous volume in the uppers as well (confirmed as I tried on multiple brands).
- LaCrosse cleats vs others - I believe these have relatively more flexible uppers vs baseball cleats (many of them seem to be thick leather, etc.). Also, I dont think metal cleats would do well in varying terrains.
- Great ground feel - Since these are so light with minimal bulk, I could definitely tell what I was stepping on (fault line stick, rocks, etc) vs the cushy trail runners/hiking shoes
Best part, they're relatively cheap. New Balance outlet (joes new balance) had a sale that made these $35, and free ship code "HONEY".
I'm really happy and hopefully this post can help ya'll, as this was a big struggle for me for a long time.
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Long post warning:
Video is of a stage where I finally was able to run confidently. You can't really see my cut back behind the wall into the second shooting box, but there's no way I could have confidently done that at speed before. I was stable enough to get in a relatively spicy reload at full sprint, something I've never really been able to do. I was able to scrub speed and accurately plant into that third position. I could take sharp cuts (leaving third position) without fear of ankle tweaking. I could trust that I was going to be able to come to a complete stop and focus more on getting on target into positions.
I've spent way too much time and money over the last year trying to find shoes that work for me. Hopefully some of my experiences can help you narrow down your search as well.
Achy feet, slipping around stages, tweaked ankles, not having confidence entering or leaving positions - all of that really effected my enjoyment of USPSA on match day.
I've tried most of the commonly recommended shoes and nothing has worked until I found these pair of lacrosse cleats (NB RushV3 Mid).
Here's my experience with different shoes:
- Altra Lone Peaks - no matter what model or size, I found my feet sliding around inside the shoe itself, blisters galore. All of my buddies who wear them say the nubs wear down quick and they're buying new pairs often.
- Salomon Speedcross - various generations/models - Even with the wide sizing, they're crazy tight. The built in arch support make my feet ache something terrible, even after just trying them on for a feet minutes.
- Keen Trail Runner's - various - These were my go to for a while, but they are relatively heavy, the nubs wear fast in the gravely type ground (seen in vid). I blew through the uppers pretty quick as well (rips on the inside part of the upper).
- New Balance Trail runner's - fresh foams and various - these were the best fit for me, even in their non-wide sizes they accommodated my feet pretty well. The uppers were decently flexible and held up ok. The "breathability" of the mesh uppers let a crap ton of dust in. I was having to shake my shoes out every few stages and my socks would be completely impregnated as well. And they were not stable for me, the amount of cushion made them an ankle roll hazard for me.
- La Sportiva Mutants - definitely my favorite, minimal heel drop, great traction, great stability , but the soles kept separating from the abuse. I can't afford to replace these every few months
***This is just what I've found that works for ME. Everyone will have different feet. Different foot shapes, different tendons/muscles that might be more prone to injury, more sensitive to stress, movement/running styles, etc.
My feet:
- Never done anything athletic, don't jog/run, don't play sports. My feet have basically lived in big heavy work boots (job) or crocs my whole life.
- Wide in the toebox area AND wide midfoot, right foot noticeably wider than left due to unrepaired torn MCL (knee) and years of compensation with that foot.
- Medium arch
- Sized between 9.5-11.5 depending of the brand. Aside from brand variations, the above issues cause this size range to be wider than most (as far as I know).
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So, I shot a few matches with my SRO taped off to work on being more target focused.
It worked well for me, I could probably leave the optic taped off indefinitely if I wanted.
The SRO has a great large window, but since it's taped off, it's now a big large black silhouette.
Seemed to reason that an optic with a smaller black silhouette (window) would actually provide more "field of view" when shooting more target focused.
*My right eye would have access to more information in regards to the target, so when my brain puts the two together, there's less overall "obstruction"
Taped off one of my carry guns with a Holosun 407k and it seems that my theory might hold some water.
Thoughts? Give it a try if you have a smaller optic available and report back?
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On 10/4/2022 at 12:27 AM, cheby said:
Are you sure about that?
No, just "seems like" it to me.
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5 minutes ago, Racinready300ex said:
There will never be a final word on this. Shoot both see what you like and roll with it.
At the end of the day you will not win or loose because of the weight of your bullet or how soft and flat your gun is or isn't.
That said I tend to be a fan of lighter, because lighter equals cheaper.
Thanks! If all ammo/bullets cost the same, which do you think you'd end up choosing?
*due to the fact that my slide is out getting milled and the fact that I'm being offered bulk ammo at a discount this week, I won't be able to test out different weights
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22 minutes ago, Rnlinebacker said:
If you want softer "feeling" go with the 147s.
If you want quick return of the sight go with the 124s
Any insight on Shadow 2's specifically? (Reliability/accuracy/etc).
Did you feel that the weight of the gun doesn't necessarily benefit as much as other guns from being "softer shooting", when generally the weight/design of a the S2 is already a soft shooting gun?
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Seems like the Shadow 2 is the most prevalent CO gun, is there a consensus on preferences between the two specifically for the S2?
I'm switching to the Shadow and having to order bulk ammunition ASAP. I won't have the gun in hand to personally test what "feels" best for me. I'm ordering from SuperVel and picking between their 124gr 1050fps 130pf (they changed this load from 1100fps recently) and their 147gr 900fps 132pf competition load.
In your personal experience in 124gr vs 147gr at similar power factor, specifically with the Shadow 2:
1. Which one has "felt better" to you in your S2? Why?
2. Is one more accurate than the other out of your the S2?
3. Has one been more reliable than the other for your S2?
4. What recoil spring setup did you end up with (124gr and/or 147gr).
5. Does your preference stay the same across all of your firearms? (Ex. You run 147gr for your S2 but 124gr for your Glock, etc.)?
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1 hour ago, jpeters11 said:
It’s just a thread protector, the post is there for grip when tightening, just like knurling.
Had the same idea awhile back when threaded barrels became legal. Kept wondering if thread protectors were even allowed, if they are, when would the OD eventually have rules.
Neat,is that a TF sight tracker? Is that your CO gun?
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What are your thoughts on the legality of an oversized thread protector made of brass (that wouldn't extend past the muzzle)?
The train of thought is that any additional weight on that specific spot would help tame muzzle flip.
And yes, I understand that if probably would make a negligible difference, "if you have a proper grip, you don't need gizmos", etc. but my curiosity still stands.
Thanks for any guidance in advance.
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Double tap
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Given that the nitro fin for the CZ Shadow 2 and the various slide release thumb ledges for the p320 are both CO legal, is it safe to assume that these following products would be legal on a Glock for CO (since they "replace" the trigger pin)?
https://www.tecperformance.com/home/gun-parts/glock-thumb-grip/
Or this:
https://stores.sjcguns.com/sjc-glock-thumb-rest-dowel-type/
Thanks in advance for any guidance.
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Mods: please move (or lock) if this isn't appropriate for this forum.
The class in question: https://tacticalperformancecenter.com/competition-mastery/
I have taken Handgun Mastery 1 & 2 with Rossen (director of training) these past two years. I've gotten a bit more into USPSA this year and have been chatting with him about putting on a Competition Mastery class in San Antonio (or anywhere else in Central Texas that might be able to host....). He definitely has a place to host in San Antonio, but I am helping build out range in Cedar Creek (20min SE of Austin) that might be able to host. He's down as long as he can fill 10 slots.
Just putting out feelers gauging interest. If there's enough maybe's and/or decently solid "yes's", I could show him this thread and hopefully that'll make him confident in getting it scheduled.
TPC was founded by Ron Avery (rip)....and I've spoken to many M/GM's who state it was the best class they've taken. Rossen himself would be the instructor (Production GM and on the CZ-USA shooting team). Tactical Hyve just did a review of their Handgun Mastery class here (again, I'm hoping to get enough interest to be able to host a Competition Mastery class):
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23 hours ago, RoguePatriot said:
I got on McMaster and ordered a heavier spring for the little red module. Knock out the 2 pins and measure it and order one heavier or lighter. Easy fix.
Mind sharing the link to the springs you ordered?
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On 4/3/2022 at 7:06 PM, ShredderTactical said:
Along with installing Timney Alpha triggers in my two G17 Gen4 MOS that I run in USPSA competitions, I also installed modified trigger housings from Vanek Custom... https://vanekcustom.com/custom-parts/#otsth . The ones I used have set screws added to adjust both Pre and Over Travel. I also modified the backs of the trigger shoe with Dremel and file, so I could take out more pre-travel and still keep all safety features intact and 100% reliable. Also, running modified Minus Connectors, modified Safety Plungers with Reduced Power Springs, and parts polishing here and there. The end result is that the Alpha triggers in both guns feel and function exactly the same, with trigger pull weight measured at 2lbs 3oz in one gun and 2lbs 8oz in the other gun (5 pull average). I really can't feel any difference in the trigger pull myself even though they measure different by a few ounces, so have not worried about further mods to get them to measure exactly the same. I'm a big fan of the Timney Alpha Trigger for competition use...I've tried a few different triggers over the years and they are as close as you will get to that magic 1911 feel!
Nice. Did a gen 5 today with all worked-over OEM parts/springs
(minus connector). Came out better than my first attempt at 1.8lbs.
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On 4/3/2022 at 11:00 AM, 3gunDMD said:
Thank you for the tips. How big of a difference does the Lantac SSR make on the length of the reset? Currently with the factory minus connector it seems like the trigger reset is out further than the trigger break.
How tough was it to install an overtravel set screw into the housing?
Just a matter of chucking the trigger housing in the drill press. Don't really need to tap the hole, just use a set screw that's slightly larger than your hole and it'll cut it's own threads. I use two short ones, the second one as a locking set screw.
Not sure on the SSR as I started with that. Your reset travel distance is more to do with your pre-travel. See the other comments on this thread to address that, as I prefer a bit of pre-travel.
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On 4/1/2022 at 10:05 AM, 3gunDMD said:
Would you mind explaining how you got it to be this nice? What generation is your glock?
Polished everything, connector is a Lantac SSR which is just a minus connector with slightly reworked angles (use the red trigger return spring).
Also rounded the sharp corners of the safety plunger (not too round, you might lose a bit more wall than some prefer). Ever so slightly stoned the hook of the striker to knock off the hard edge (definitely don't overdo this, less than a handful of passes). Then very slowly adjusted (bent/stoned) the crucifix (cruciform?) to so it had about a 40% engagement with the striker. (I've dropped it and hit it at all sorts of angles and places with a delrin hammer and it's 100% drop safe). Also have a zev reduced power plunger spring.
The two key things are the set screw I installed in the trigger housing for over travel and the Wolff OEM weight 5lb striker spring. I slipped the striker spring over a 223 cleaning mop chucked into a drill and polished the inside, then used a Dremel buffing wheel on the outside of the spring. The trigger still breaks at 2.5lbs with the 5lb spring.
If I really wanted to reduce more pre-travel, I would have ground a little off of the rear of the safety tab so I could get a few more turns out of the pre-travel adjustment screw. But I honestly don't mind and for whatever reason kind of like a little pre-travel.
It's a gen 3, but I just ordered a gen 5 and am hoping for similar results.
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I really like the CO version of the Holosun 407c: https://holosun.com/index/product/detail/id/136.html
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Wanted to try the much hyped Timney Alpha for my CO Glock. Honestly wasn't a fan at all. Didn't want to send it to Johnny Glocks for his Omega service because at that point it would be a $400 Glock trigger.....
Everything was worked over: connector, striker, safety plunger, trigger housing, etc. Utilized all OEM parts (minus connector if you were wondering).
Consistent 2.5lbs pull, with a positive reset.
Here's the reset compared to my carry Glock, which has the most "positive" reset of all of my Glocks: https://imgur.com/a/esX2fTN
I'm sure the Johnny Glocks Omega is probably better than what I can do, but for an hour of fiddling I am quite satisfied with the results.
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I'm very new to all of this so please bear with me on the mountain of questions:
Pants:
I'm 5'11, 185-195lbs, a 31-33 waist size, athletic body type, with a long torso if that information is relevant.
The super ridgid belt system really digs into my hip bones. I'm talking bruising + tender skin from chaffing. I'm assuming my thinner hiking pants (Prana) aren't really helping the situation, and the belt loops are pretty flimsy.
Are there pants that are thicker around the waistband to at least provide some sort of cushioning while still allowing good mobility? (Prefer some sort of elasticity/stretch as I fluctuate waist size quite often throughout the year).
How high do y'all wear your pants/belt?
Are there products on the market specifically designed to address this? I've stumbled on this: https://www.511tactical.com/zero-g-plate.html. Has anyone used this in a competition setting?
Shoes:
- one local club has gravel sporadically laid on the ground (quarter to ping pong ball sized) on top of very hard limestone. I've personally seen many shooters eat it while moving, I assume some sort of hiking type sole would help?
- Would shoes that work well in the above scenario also work well on the smooth concrete floor of indoor ranges?
- I prefer soft mid top type shoes/boots because normal tennis really chaff up my Achilles area.
Any recommendations?
Top:
- Any general recommendations? I hate cotton shirts... and it gets quite hot in Texas
- What're the arm sleeves I see people wearing for? UV protection or is there some sort of compression for your forearms?
Thank you for any help y'all could provide.
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17 hours ago, kurtm said:
Let's not lose track of the fact that this is a "full on racing part"! Would any of you expect your top fuel nitro methane burning engine to last for years and years as a grocery getter?? As we used to say "morn the loss, look forward the the new one"..... It's a racing part and J.P. is the BEST top fuel maker!
I agree, that's why I didn't have many qualms picking up the carrier first and then dealing with the details of my knowledge gap.
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17 hours ago, kurtm said:
Isn't grill paint a high temperature coating?
The aluminum carrier in my original CTR-02 from 1998 is well into it's second barrel so I would say with good maintenance at least 15,000- 20,000 rounds, but I haven't killed it yet.
Man that's good to hear. Has the coating worn to expose the bare aluminum anywhere?
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10 hours ago, fyaman43 said:
Funny thing about JP bcgs though - they "fail" the gas ring test (at least my alum does). The bolt collapses into the carrier under its own weight very easily even when new.
I know it's probably part of the dark magic dwarven forging process used at the JP factory but it's interesting to note.
Does your bolt have the one piece gas ring? If I recall correctly, one piece's seldom pass that rest, can anyone else confirm?
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16 hours ago, fyaman43 said:
I have an aluminum carrier in my 18" SCI-20 and I have prob 500 rounds through the gun. It was manufactured in the last year or so. I've always run the carrier nearly dripping wet (with oil) as per recommendations I've read, seen, heard, etc. I take it out, wipe it down, and apply liberal amounts of oil to the bcg before a match or practice session. I've had zero "failures" with it though edges of the coating on the underside are starting to show wear/slightly flake. My buddy has one as well with a few thousand more rounds through his and he says the wear is normal and has had zero issues (his also a recent build).
I don't whether it's the SCS, recoil eliminator brake, rifle length gas system, aluminum carrier, or combo of all of it, but the rifle basically doesn't move when I'm shooting.
They say the aluminum carriers are good for 10k rounds but keeping em clean and highly lubricated is a key. I don't personally mind doing that before a match but maybe some might.
Appreciate the insight.
15 hours ago, DavidSeavey said:basically same experience here, probably 1000 rounds or so on mine, latest version as well, i run it wet as well, no signs of wear or chipping on mine yet. running SCS, jp 3 port, adjusted rifle gas.
Would i do it again? swapping between on the bench it does produce a smaller recoil impulse, but after the buzzer i doubt i'd notice as i had previously ran their steel LMOS carrier. shooting from weird positions on long range targets is when i appreciate it the most i thinkl. but were i to do it all again i'd probably just get a second steel lightweight carrier and likely never think much about the bcg outside extractor things again.
for a good deal? sure why not. but i do keep my steel carrier with me as a backup just in case.
what i think i remember reading about aluminum bcg wearing was more in the bolt chamber with gas erosion and seal ring problems than external wear causing issues
Okay, that is helpful. I wonder if oversized gas rings exist? Or maybe never clean the bolt chamber and have the carbon build up assist in the seal (a little tongue in cheek, but theoretically its possible right?).
8 hours ago, kurtm said:The final word on aluminum carriers is......They are light!
Oil them up good every stage or so and they will last a couple of barrels worth of shooting at least.
Haha, yes! thanks
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It's been a few years since I've looked into them. I finally have a dedicated gamer gun, so I'm open to the idea again.
The main reason I'm only asking about aluminum instead of titanium is because a buddy gave me a killer deal on a JP one. From what I gather, there were different iterations on the JP carrier, this one is the greenish/gold coated one.
So my questions are:
1. Does anyone have more info/personal experience with the green/goldish JP aluminum carrier? Have you had one fail and under what circumstances (round count, overgassing?, anything I need to watch out for?)
2. Same question as above but with any aluminum carriers.
3. Some of the finish has worn, has anyone refinished one and what finish did you use? Should I not bother and just run it as is?
4. Do you think the jump to titanium is worth it? (I'm probably only going to do a few run n guns, so should be around 1k round count/year)
Thanks for any input in advance.
Shoe Recommendation - I've FINALLY found something that works for me
in Gear & Accessories
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I think so, I was worried they were going to be too rigid. No rocks/brass "hurt" me. But I'm not sure if cleats are good in gravel in general as I haven't encountered those ranges.