KIRK J

I've been a 550 user for the last 10 years and love it. The numbers you plan on loading are perfect for a day or so of loading and that is taking your time. You can take a rainy day each month and keep up with your demands. I also recommend buying the 550 quick change kit and add dies and caliber change. You are looking at $220 +- for each caliber conversion but treat yourself a couple times a year and you'll be quickly on your way.

I must be the only one who does it this way, pull the failsafe arm, loosen the two set screws on the powder measure, lift measure off of the powder die and empty. Cycle the arm a few times to get the last little bit of powder below the baffle. 15 seconds tops

I have one of these, simply readjust the sizer die to the proper touch of the shell plate and all other dies remain the same. And of course you need to adjust the powder measure but not for height just powder amount. Excellent product for quick conversion between 38 and 357

Not sure what the lines are but they are on once fired brass both factory and reloads. I have checked RP, WW and Nosler Brass and all 3 have the same streaks above the base. I haven't shot any of the brass more than twice so I haven't had any case separation to this point. I think it's time for another return to Remington to see if they can correct. Not sure really what to do at this point. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated

Bolt handle turns but won't pull back. This happens when I reinsert a fired case also and try to operate the bolt. Like I said, it takes the easiest tap of cleaning rod to release the casing

I'm having trouble getting my 338 brass to eject after being fired. I have already sent the rifle back to Remington and they swapped out ejectors, but the problem still exist. The problem is that Remington factory shells have about a 10% failure rate, while WW has 100%. The brass pictured is a piece of Nosler that was loaded with 64 gr of RL 15 and a Nosler 210 partition. Not a hot load. Tried several lower powder loads and had the same issues. Just to check I loaded the fired Remington brass with the above load and had the same issues. These same loads fired flawlessly a month or so back. If I take the empty fired brass and reinsert into the chamber is sticks again without even firing. The aggravating part is that it takes just a gentle tap of a cleaning rod to clear the action but it won't open by hand. Any help is appreciated. Long time shooter and lifelong reloader but not sure what's happening here

I loaded for years on the T-MAG Lyman press, but finally broke down about 6 years ago and purchased the 550. Buy the blue cool aid and don't look back. Loading is actually enjoyable now and 99% simpler than before. I ordered everything through Brian and he even talked me through the order to make sure I had what I needed. You will be both amazed and happy with the results

Did a little polishing this weekend and hopefully that will take care of the problem. None of my other funnels appear to be as rough as this one. Thanks again for the info, didn't know if this was a common problem or not.

here is a picture that shows what it looks like after it was cleaned. you can still see the burrs on the inner walls

I'll take pictures tonight and try to post tomorrow morning.

Snowed in this weekend in VA and wound up at the loading bench. I took apart my powder die that I'm using for my 357 and removed the funnel and was concerned. Inside the powder funnel looked corroded and had burrs and powder sticking everywhere. I ran a dry patch inside and the burrs "grabbed" the material. I wound up pulling a bore snake through and that kind of cleaned things up. Is this normal? I'm using WW 296 and haven't noticed any significant metering problems but this just doesn't look right. The press is stored in the house and is climate controlled by the HVAC unit in the house. Any suggestions?

Check the shell plate for proper tension. If it's too loose the case can wobble in position and come under the powder funnel out of alignment. Just a thought

I have the clip installed as shown in the picture. I will take a photo and post in the morning, but the bent end shown on the clip hits the left side if I have it located as shown in the picture and the new piece of brass will not bypass on the right to get to station 1. I'm sure it's a simple fix that I'm just not seeing

Even when i backed the spring out as far as it would go i couldn't insert the next piece past the spring without the bent part hitting the sidewall. Aggrivated the hell out of me yesterday, there was no location where it would barely touch the brass that it would also index to next station or allow the insertion of another piece of brass. Never had this problem with any other calibers, maybe the 44 is just too large for the factory supplied spring

I was loading 44 mag yesterday on my 550 and was having trouble on station 1 with the retaining clip and trying to find a location that it would hold the brass in tight and still allow installing the next piece of brass after going to the next station. Finally gave up on the clip and moved it out of the way which caused trouble with a few rounds sliding back out of the way during priming. I couldn't find a spot that would allow both to happen. Anyone have a suggestion about how to adjust the clip or do i make another one just for the larger cased 44?