Vlad

Yes I know that only the RO can call out commands. But folks, lets be realistic. There are many possible scenario's under which the shooter AND the RO may not even notice a safety problem. Say, someone wondering over a berm. The rules be damned, don't let someone get shot because you aren't the one supposed to speak out. I will however, add my voice to the list of those maintaining that this example is RO failure.

I think the official answer is that if the RO didn't see it, it didn't happen. In reality, I'll be screaming my lungs out if you point a gun the wrong way and you can feel free to ding me with a procedural or dq (8.6.2, 10.6) so I know that I really dont want to shoot there anymore On the other hand, the rule book doesnt really say who DQ's you. I guess you DQ yourself. The only mention of the RO is that he has to record the reasons or stop you.

Ok .. The new rod should come with a new plug. The new plug will look just like the old one, but where your current one is checkered, the new one just has a hole in its end. It still norrows to hold the bushing, but it doesn't close. That way it can slide up and down the rod as the slide cycles. You can still take the gun down as ususal, but it can be harder on the thumbs to press the plug in and you may need a bushing wrench, a key, a knife, a case edge, table edge, whatever, so you can press down on the plug. The rod is as long as the slide, but that is short enought to allow the bushing to slide over it. I browsed 1911forum.com for a bit and I found this muzzle picture which should give you an idea of the layout. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v236/mrg...lf/P0002878.jpg The bull barrel guns use a different layout.

Hmm .. anyones else wishing they had some texture or is everyone assuming the application of grip tape?

Hmm .. so where do buy those grips?

Maybe you are right, a few of the cuts really look like his dead GF but it may be Julia Stiles in odd makeup.

Hmm .. Isn't his GF supposed to be dead ..?? WTF?

Dry or canned? Natural Balance has dry in Venison and brown rice, Duck and potato, sweet potato and fish, and even some vegeterian ones. For canned they have the same plus Liver and Lamb, besides the standby's of chicken and beef. And then they have really fancy stuff like "Chinese Food", "Irish stew", "Hobo Chilli", and some form of dumplings, but be ready to pay $3 per can. http://www.naturalbalanceinc.com/dogformulas/dry.html

It suck all around. I would recommend you guys look at Natural Balance brand. They claim to use all human grade, US made, blah blah, ingredients. Actually my wife works a lot with animals and pays close attention to what is in pet foods, and thats what our animals are on. They are not cheap, but our pets love it and they do very well on it, healthy coats, and all that.

Not for nothing but I think it a BBC production.

Was I the only one who read the topic name and went "Another friking division? Don't we have enough of them already?"

It is pretty, but I'm constantly wanting more about each topic. They just hand you samples of cool and then hand you another sample of cool, but never enought for my taste.

Hmm ... 6ft tall invisible rabbits ...

I have no idea about the Trojan, but don't consider it a drawback. For example all Springfields use the smaller pin, and they seem to work fine for all chamberings.

Nik and I were having this exact discussion last nite. The best I could come up with was Clint Eastwood circa Heartbreak Ridge.

I thought I was strange by droping in on threads I would have no interest in if they got closed, just to see what the riot was all about. Kinda like slowing down for accidents. Recently I started paying attention the list of people also reading those threads after they have been closed. Boy, do I feel like part of the crowd all of a studden. I do feel bad for Flex, he's screwed if he doesn't control the monkeyhouse, but when he needs to close it for cleaning, everyone is trying to peak through the poo covered windows, trying to see why the it was being flung around in the first place.

So .. great taste or less filling?

Anyone read Bane's blog lately, he really thinkgs that the .40S&W is a total waste of time. Talk among yourselves.

I'm really not sure how fragile the vials are. After all they do not break when hit with the fairly substantial G forces of recoil and slide movement. If they were that fragile, I would think we would hear a lot more about broken sights then we do.

The standard ones don't have a screw either, or at least mine didnt. If there is a screw, it makes the removal easier, but not by much. Take a brass bunch, maybe a peice of leather to hold between the punch and rear sight and tap away gently. Nowdays I my slide in a small vise to hold it still, but I've done it with the slide just laying on the table too. Just tap at it gently at first, left to right, and it make take a 10 or more taps before you even notice the thing moved. There should be a small mark on the top of your slide in the middle of the rear sight notch which you can use to monitor your progress and align the new rear sight. If you need a bit heavier hits then increase the force slowly 'till you notice the slide starting to move. When it moves, hold your hits at the same level and keep on working on it slowly.

I don't know about the tritium ones. Do they have a set screw on the rear? The normal CZ rear takes some taping with a small hammer and a brass punch. Nothing to serious and if you do it carefully and take your time I think you should be ok. There is no real hammering on the front sight, because you just pushing out a pin with a punch, not the sight itself. Then the front sight should just drift forward with nothing more then firm finger pressure. I have done BOTH of these in the middle of a match, with improvised tools at least once. The front one I think I've done a couple of times during matches. I'm just strange that way.

Heh. Thats fine. And if you can change a tire you are WAY over qualified to change CZ sights. All you need is a couple of punches, a small hammer and small triangular file. Takes about 10-15 minutes. At most you might also need a front sight roll pin, of which you should get a couple just in case.

Dots are not worth the time the factory spends drilling them in our game. Go with the competition ones, 1mm fiber front and the rear sight from Angus. Don't even look back. I personally never understood the point of the plain 3 dot sights as they aren't all that usefull to my eyes in any light. I guess the tritium ones would be usefull in true low light situations. For our game, I think a plain serated rear with a thin fiber front or a plain front are the way to go and you can search the forums to see that almost everyone is of this mind. There are however endless arguments on the fiber vs plain front, so use what works for you, I switch mine around every now and then.

I build a stage, drive some trailers around, try to find all the missing props the other stage builders need, safety check new shooters, and then I'm too tiered to warm up. But I do get warm.

This thread makes me really appreciate my '97 Jetta. Sure, I need to put some money into it to make it pass inspection right now, but I get over 30mpg in stop and go traffic. I didn't even know that some stations have a cut off, my wife's SUV never goes above $45 or so per tank and my fillups are like $25, so I have no idea if that practice is popular in NJ.