Gun Geek

How about a little more complete answer. Also I think that article linked has some out of date info: Major and minor refer to thresholds of something called power factor (PF). In the US (or anywhere else not using the metric system), power factor is bullet weight in grains x bullet velocity in feet per second. If you were using the metric system you would multiply grams x velocity in meters per second. But, from highschool physics, this is momentum. In the states we don't call it momentum because there is a fundamental difference between weight and mass (but that's a thread drift). In the USPSA rule book, that number is then divided by 1000 to give numbers such as 165 or 125. In IDPA, you don't divide by 1000, so you see numbers in the rules like 125,000 or 165,000. For handguns, the rule books define major as a pf of 165 or 165,000. Anything below that is called minor. A pf or 125 or 125,000 is the MINIMUM power factor required for these sports. From here how the rules are applied depends on the game (i.e sport, division, etc) you are playing, so check your rule book. The linked article was written in 2001 and kind goes all over the map on major/minor. Any historians want to add to that? All of this gets down to setting some standard for the ammunition used in the sports. Otherwise, guys would load the ammunition down as far as they could and still get the gun to function (probably after changing springs). The 125/165 numbers were chosen because factory loads will generally be that level or a little higher out of most guns (there are always exceptions). Therefore reloaders don't get a huge margin of advantage just by handloading. There is another result of naming a pf. At a given powerfactor, the combination that pushes the bullet the slowest will result in the least recoil energy. Strangely enough, that means that you should use a heavier bullet. Here's why: From physics energy is 1/2 x mass x velocity (squared). This means that the energy is controlled more by changes in velocity than in mass. A 200 gn bullet has to go 825 fps (200x825 = 165,000) to make major. A 180 gn has to go about 917 fps. The 200gn load will produce less recoil energy. Lowest energy isn't the only decision factor. Some guns need that energy to make the slide go, some people like the feel of a shorter snap, then a more gentle push, etc. Hope this helps!

On the carbide thing - I think it is a wear as well as smoothness issue. True, for most of us wear is not really an issue, but the carbides do tend to be smoother than a regular steel die even when lubed. With a progressive that soothness is more important for proper operation. Remeber that many of us (including me) use lube on pistol cases (with carbide dies). Again just makes the whole thing easier. I use redding comp seating dies exclusively on my rifle loads - because distance to the lands is a factor in rifle accuracy, and run-out can be an issue, the ability to easily change seating depth, and a good square seat are important.

Out of my Kimbers Clays does exactly what you are talking about - A little blue flame in the middle, lots of white sparks (maybe a foot) coming from the muzzle. It didn't seem to be overly bright, just white. I found it the first time we did a low-light IDPA stage at an indoor range.

So, still have the same problems?

Did low-light (as well as blind stages) on an indoor range it was very cool. The true gamers hated it (the USPSA) converts, but the tactibilies loved it. We'd mix that in with a short range hoser for the next stage and it made for succesful matches.

I think it is pretty clear that the answer is shoot as an expert. Lest ye be branded the shining example of sandbagger. OK, Here's the more interesting situation - should you try and get bumped just by winning? This is a little harder with the 1 time per year rule for the classifer, but, it got me in trouble with my buddies. I was just on the edge of making SS in the classifier early in the year. Didn't shoot it any more and got much better through the summer. But never won (or more correctly place well when there wasn't enough entrants to bump me). So the buds starting calling me a sandbagger! (I'm so hurt) Anyway, I thought it more of an achievement to win the calssification through competition as opposed to practicing and doing well on the classifier. Yes, it is possible to do poorly on the classifier and do very well in a match - the long shots can really hurt you and I very rarely see them in a match.

147's bah! I got a great deal (free) on 1000 Winchester FMJ 147s. Won't shoot worth a hoot from my 10. Tried all kinds of combinations of powder and oal, etc. 168gn SMKs - different story. Clover leaf at 100 if I do my part and the wind's not blowing too bad. 2" groups at 300 on a good day. The 147's will do 1.5" groups from my M1A.

Use your carry holster (as long as it is legal - SOBs or shoulder rigs) or borrow one from your buddies - as mentioned above, if they have been doing this a while, they likely have a drawer full. If you have to buy, a UM paddle for about $25 is the cheapest option. Again, don't get the regular belt model.

Don't say TiVo Bane may not get paid the big bucks if we zap the commercials I saw those 2 episodes - Damn good TV I, too felt bad for that guy. Only time he gets to shoot real guns is 2 weeks a year and he ADs - uuuugh. Some serious smoking on those stages, dang. I've show that to people and they swear some of the guys couldn't have been aiming! Any body in that crowd fired up for the 72 seconds for next year?

It was a very painful lesson There is no minimum velocity rule in IDPA (just the pf of course). SASS has a problem with this big 45 colt or 44 mag bullets going slow - the guys at our club set the steel at an angle so that the bullets deflect downward. I loooove steel. 22's on steel is smokin' (but I drift the thread)

Very Well DONE! IDPA HQ may need to talk to you about this...

The belt version of the UM holster is NOT IDPA legal - holds the gun too far away from the body, may also have the dreaded light in the belt tunnel. This holster is specifically mentioned (the only one I think) in the IDPA book as being illegal. UM does make a paddle holster and it should be perfect. UM also makes some decent mag pouches. If you decide to get into the sport you'll probably change the holster and mag pouches, or maybe not! Wilderness belt is great, but don't order one just for this - you can use a sturdy (wide) leather belt and do great. You'll also need a cover garment of some kind. There are lots of options here. Look for something that is stiff enough that it won't bunch up when you yank it out of the way when you start your draw. You should have 3 mags at a minimum, 4 is really good (Barney mag). I find it easier to 5 or 6 - sometimes you get a stage where you need 5 or 6 rounds out of a mag, and there will be several strings - you're stuffing mags (or asking a buddy) while you're on the line. Loose fitting pants, probably doing a little squatting. Seen several blowouts and it is not pretty. Non-slip shoes, usually some for of boot or hicking type shoe. tennis shoes are often kind slick on gravel or grass. Don't spen tons of cash on the gear until you shoot a match or 2. Talk to the other shooters. They will usually let you try out their gear (seems to be culture at club level matches).

Had to do the math here: 230gn @ 850fps = 195,500pf; 230gn @ 165,000pf = 717fps 180gn @ 1000fps = 180,000pf; 180gn @ 125,000pf = 694fps 115gn @ 1125fps = 129,000pf; 115gn @ 125,000pf = 1086fps Point is that there would be a big diff for 45's and very little diff for 9's. Not sure I know exactly what that means. I can attest from personal experience that shooting enough 45 ACP at 195,500 pf to get good will beat up the shooter, and I think the gun. I used to shoot pins at this powerfactor and wow... Personally I would be OK with upping the floors to something closer to the standards. I don't think it should be quite as hot as the defensive loads - this will require people to hand load since we couldn't afford that hot stuff off the shelf. IDPA would do itself a great disservice to exclude readily available cheap (white box, wolf, etc...) ammo. I have experimented with slow moving chunks of lead (300gn from a 45 ACP). As stated before, with a light spring and a smooth gun, no problem. However, watching the bullets go down range was very distracting. It made a few folks nervous... It is also dangerous on steel - anything moving slower than 550 or 600fps will bounce off of steel and come back.

I have a CED and I really like the infra red screen option. No fussing with shade, direct sun, etc. Even works in the dark - though I can't image why you would do that. It does work well in doors, which many others struggle with. 'course, there goes a little more $$

Don't exactly agree with this - 9mm isn't hard to make, 45 is just very easy and very forgiving. I learned to reload on 44mag - bigger is easier. 9's and 40's are high pressure rounds. It is easier to get to kaboom. Having said that, 9mm is a good place to start, and as said above, the economics are close (though with the recent rise in prices it is getting better). I would re-emphasize that for 9's what you would get is better control over reciol and muzzle blast. This really is a big deal. To me if you are getting into reloading just for the 9's the reasons are not clear cut. However, if you are going to load other calibers, then they will pay for the press and the 9's become a "bonus".

+1 bagillion

I had the same problem plus another - the shake of the case feeder bothered me and I think cause some problem very occasionally. It is a basic physics thing - fair amount of weight at the end of a lever arm usually means shake. I completely did away with the mounting arm and mounted the feeder to the wall behind the press. Got some 1" square steel tubing, a little flat steel ~1/16" for an angle brace (had it from another project) and a pice of aluminium bar stock. Cut the flat steel into triangles, bolted them to the outside of the tubing placed in a L, bolted the aluminim to the end of one leg of the L. Bolt the whole thing via the other leg to the wall stud with small lag bolts. Slide the feeder over the aluminum bar stock. Only real mod I had to do was cut the feeder tube - cut great with a dremmel. Project took about 1 hour and I'm real happy with the result... Pics can be posted if anyone is interested...

On the original question: If the dropped mag was retrieved before any another shot was fired - no PE. Here's my reasoning: 1) The point of tac reload and RWR is that the shooter does not leave usable ammo in the fight. Picking up the mag before shooting again. 2) Sounds like the shooter gained no advantage (i.e. shorter time) by not following the "rules" (a tac or RWR exactly how the book does it). I can't imagine that picking up a mag is faster than a reload. This last concept is how I try to cut through the ambiguity of the rule book. On Duane's question- PE for leaving ammo on the ground. Sounds like you fired another shot after the bobbled reload. It seems clear that leaving ammo on the ground is a PE, the problem is when have you left it. In my judgement when you fired the next shot you left it.

A true rush.

I've got a 10FP (308 Win) and Love it. The finish goes along with my "gun is a tool" philosophy. I can drag it ot competitions, and hunting and it holds up nicely. I have added an aftermarket Choate stock. For MOR competitions it is great. Again, Love it. By keeping the original stock, I can switch back and go deer hunting and I don't get the stares. The Stevens idea sounds like a good one. A Stevens, Choate, and a new trigger - sub MOA for $500 - $600. Decent glass will cost more than the rifle. I'm eyeing this for a 22-250 varmit gun.

Never seen it in practice where "...T1 - T3" means shoot T1, then T2, then T3. This might create a bias against lefties, or people who take Matt Burkett classes. I'm still thinking about the language decomposition If they really want you to shoot targets in a particular order they will say so.

Guys- The powder check on the 650 (?1050?) is the thing. It will catch a powder charge low enough to make a squib. This is also why I think the 650, 1050, and square deal are inherently safer than a 550 - auto indexing keeps you from screwing this up. Don't rely on it 100%, use a visual check as well. But, I'm at about 25,000 rounds on my 650 and NO squibs. My only squibs have been when using my rock chucker for very low volume or load development loads.

Oddjob hit the real issue - a 147gn 9mm at 127-130 pf is much softer than a a 115gn at 140pf (a 147gn at 130 is much softer than a 115 at 130 for that matter). I reload my 9mm for about 3.50 per box so I don't save much over the $3.86 stuff, but I like it much more. I scrounge range brass - nobody wants it bcause 9mm is so cheap, right? Here's a real difference - guy was doing plate racks at average of 5.5s or so with white box. With my ammo he averaged about 5s. I can do plate racks in 4.25s or so, if I switch (and run a few to get the timing) my time goes up to about 4.5. Lastly - I started loading 9's after I bought the press (650) to load other stuff (45's, 308, 22-250, 30 Carbine, 44Mag, 300WSM) which has good savings. The other stuff has paid for the press. I probably wouldn't buy the press to load 9mm, but the small additional cost of the dies makes it work. I'm thinking through reloading 223 right now.

The ideal would be zero vibration. And to be thin, good looking, and have $10Million in the bank. Given that all of these things arent't the case we need to figure out what is good enough. From what I can see, your bench looks to be constructed solidly enough (of course the mods mentioned above will certianly help). What you need to do is weight it down (bullets, buckets of brass...) and/or bolt it to the floor. This will help a bunch. Operate the press and see if the vibration is caused by the bench flexing or the whole thing moving. I think you find that the bench floats as a unit instead of flexing. I find that there is vibration on the upstroke - not much opposing that force, people build benches to support weight not stop upward motion. Flex- Try separating the case feeder from the 650. I think it is a minor design flaw in the 650 (and 1050 for that matter) that the heavy feeder sits on a single 3' pole sticking up from the press. Any vibration will cause the case feeder to swing wildly. I attached my case feeder to the wall behind the press - it does not touch the press at all (except for the feeder tube ).

My Hogdon manual says 4.0 is the max for a 230gn jacketed bullet. If you want to try that recipie start much lower (3.8) and work up, look for pressure signs. If you are going to push the limit, load the round as long as will reliably work in your pistol - this will give you a littel more space to keep the pressure from going nuts.