Whistler

Bit of a necro post, but I have the same problem. I have tried the drill and brush method to no avail. Any other tips or solutions? I like the die since it is the only one I've tried that can uniform (brute punch) the flash holes of non-standard brass like indoor range brass.

I adjusted the bottom lugs and the slide stop pin now has clearance. This is what the parts looked like after 40 hand cycles, fully assembled with recoil spring inserted.

Is it fixable? If so. How?

Thank you for the replies thus far. I noticed some play between the barrel and the slide. I can put a .009 feeler gauge between rear of barrel hood and breachface. The picture show the barrel pushed forward until it stops. I reckon this is the cause for the wear on the lugs. Can it be fixed or is the only solution to fit a new barrel?

I recently aquired a very nice CK Arms 1911. It has some wear and battering I am a bit concerned with. What would you guys reckon is the cause? Is a new slide required or can I deburr the peened edges? The numbers on the photos correspond to show the same fault from different angles. The forum did not allow me to post original resolution, these are downscaled to 25% resolution. Thanks in advance.

Allright, so it is time to wake this thread. I have run about 250 rounds of the 1.220" ammo, about half of that was on a club match to try it under competition conditions. I've had one nosedive on the feedramp, apparently related to that magazine. Can be recreated by filling it up and just letting the slide go, the bullet will dive and jam the slide. Will try bending the spring. One round got caught halfway into the chamber. When racking back the slide with force, the bullet was lodged slightly into the lands. Since the bullet cannot reach the lands when inside the case, I gather the jam must have acted as a kinetic hammer, forcing the bullet forward until it let go of the case. There are two considerations here: 1. The case tension was too loose. 1A. Was the case tension specific for this cartridge? Was it caused by being in the bottom of the mag for several stages, shaking the bullet loose? 1B. Is this true for all the cartridges? If so, a deeper seating may be required. 2. What caused the jam? Was the tension enough for regular shooting, but the jam was more force than the cartridge would withstand even under normal circumstances? After returning home from the match I tested all cases in the 9mm case gauge. They are too long (of course), but otherwise most went in fine. Some have a resistance, I wonder if this is due to the chamber of the previous firearm (I use once fired Speer +P range brass only). It could also be due to the heavy compression of the powder, making the case bulge. I had the opportunity to test the ammo in a chronograph. Velocities were not very even, but accuracy is good and I can tell no difference in dot tracking. Average velocity was 1337 fps. Lowest factor was 166 and highest 178. Next plan will probably be to lower the charge with about 0.2 gn and see if the cases will have less bulge and still function.

Haven't benchtested it yet, but it holds roughly 1" steadily at 20 yards offhand.

I have a 9mm STI chamber that will take a 31.0 mm / 1.220" OAL with a 124 gn RN. I have loaded 9.0 gn N105, similar to what I worked up for a friend's .38 Super with the same bullet and load. The seating depth is a mere 2,54 mm / .100". So far everything actually seems fine, I have no bent cartridges and it seems to hold for the recoil forces. If it would have touched the lands I would have been worried that the case tension was not enough to eject the case without having the bullet stuck in the chamber on unloading, but this OAL passes all plunk tests on the barrel. Anyone else have any experience with shallow seating depths with 9mm? All references I find are about bench rest shooting where they seat to the lands.

The 929 is chambered in 9x21. It is marketed as "9x19", but the website just say "9MM" to get away with the fact that they used 9x21 cylinders. I have a 929. Accuracy is not good with 9x19 brass unless you use 140-160gn bullets that get support from the case until the bullet reaches the chamber throat, and 9x21 chambers fine.

Negative, if you order the twin pack you get one of each, the long peg on light and short peg on heavy.

I'm trying to figure out the ins and outs of the STI Recoil Master. There are two strengths, light and heavy. Light has green springs and is made for compensated guns and 9x19mm. Heavy has orange springs and is made for .40 S&W and .45 ACP. STI's product info: http://stiguns.com/recoil-systems/ If you look at Brownell's they have a "twin pack" where you get both light and heavy. If you look at the little peg on the left of both recoil rods, you can see that light has a long peg and heavy has a short peg. Adding to the confusion is the fact that the RM is available for either bull barrel or bushing barrel. If you buy the bull barrel version you will also need to have the belly of the barrel milled flat so the recoil rod's head has room to move in. If you look at the springs they are color coded as previously mentioned. The same color applies to both the large spring and the smaller sub spring. There is however no available info about what possibilities there are with putting a green outer spring to a rod with an orange sub spring or vice versa. Nor is there any info on the function of the long or short peg. What happens if you take a RM with a long peg and put in orange springs? The springs themselves are actually available in stand alone packages. So to my actual problem: I have a 1911 in .45 ACP with conversion uppers in 9x19mm and .40 S&W. The upper in .40 has the flat milled belly and uses an orange RM since earlier. So far so good. .45 is mostly used in Bullseye type competition, so I'd rather use a tungsten guide rod for the extra weight to stabilize. However, the barrel has been milled flat for a RM (which I ordered because it might be neat to have), but can I still use the FLGR with the horse shoe shaped rod head? The 9x19mm upper is used for IPSC competition, so the RM would be nice for the fast follow up shots. It does not have the flat milled surface. The extra RM I bought used has the orange sub spring, short peg and a green outer spring. Can it be used on the 9x19? Are there any tables on the different combinations?

Veidec Flexlube

The comp buildup aside, does anyone shooting lead have problems with the lens? I've got a sideway (Quinn II) mounted C-more on a STI Match Master and after just a mag or two with my 130gn lead RN the lens is fogged up. Sometimes I have to use something to scrape the buildup on the lens off. Running N105, thinking about switching to N350. I have yet to see a sideways mount with a blast shield, so I'm wondering how others solve the issue. My barrel is not ported, only comped.

This is how I did it with .38 SC from .38 Special brass: