holdinsteady

Got the reamer from Brownells.....took 10 minutes and the gun ejects spent cartridges like they were greased....good, inexpensive fix. . Thanx Tom

One more thing. When you ream the chambers be carefull about going too deep. The reamer will cut the face the rim sits against also. You don't want to go deeper than (at most) JUST TOUCHING it to true the surface. Be carefull. Thanx.....I will keep an eye on it!!!!

Titanium "625" cylinder. They're from a 325. Thanx Tomm I will take some measurements and maybe try some Precision molycoats. Do you think cast bullets sized to .454 might work? Is it usually the cylinder throat that is oversized or is the bore large also?

Thanx Tom....ordering reamer from Brownells Jerry

Ti 325 ?? Jerry

Is this due to chamber/bore dimensions ......or something else? Jerry

Thanx for the reply Mike. This manson reamer....is it something that a weekend gunsmith can do on a drill press or does one need a lathe or milling machine? Do you do this commercially? Jerry

Just bought a slightly used 25-2 with 6" bbl....put Hogue grips on it to keep it from busting my knuckle. Am interested in loading data for it, I've been using Precision molycoats in my semi autos and wondering if they will work ok in the 25-2? What loads do you like in this gun for busting steel. I ordered a Weigand sight base and a Leupold Delta Point....my eyes do better with the optical sights. Any tips of wisdom for a new 25-2 owner? Thanx, Jerry

Anybody having trouble ejecting spent brass from their 10 shot 617 with steel cylinder? The third and subsequent cylinder (after cleaning) of spent brass has to be tapped out with a tool....can't do it by hand. Is there a relatively easy cure? Polish chambers maybe? Any help would be appreciated. Thanx, Jerry

G56................I guess we can agree to disagree....but in this part of the world lubrication of metallic parts bearing against one another tend to improve the performance of these parts significantly for longer periods of time without failure. There was a time that I thought lubrication in a semi-auto pistol or rifle was not beneficial also......but then I found out that I was mistaken and have changed my ways.....I'll stick with the "use the lube theory". "45 yrs reloading".....we must have started close to the same time.

Always use lube....and yes the horn lube is great. It's just simply easier on your brass and equipment....in the long run you will have fewer problems with yer stuff.

I just got off of the Wolf site....I ordered their 3 pack of springs....6...6.5...and 7...lb springs. I think this should get me in the ballpark. The ammo I'm tuning for is SK Special Pistol Match......this stuff is like "benchrest" ammo for my 22 pistols. I've never shot anything this accurate in my 22's. Thanx for your reply, Jerry

I have a S&W 41 that shoots pistol match ammo extremely accurately.....but will not cycle 100% of the time. Tried keeping the action squeeky clean and lubed and paid particular attention to keeping as consistant a grip as possible but still have an occaisional jam. No jams whatsoever with high speed ammo such as Win Super-x. Anyone know of a source for a lighter weight spring? Thanx, Jerry

Jason I'm glad I read your post. It points out that the old adage is "right on". That is, different guns shoot different velocities with the identical loads. Your load would put me over 180 pf. That doesn't make your load good or bad, just different from what works for me. Interesting stuff. Joe I load with a RCBS Pro 2000 and did a little experimenting last weekend with my 45. Using clays and weighing each load I found the clays metering +- .2 grain. Switching to Win WST loads varied less than +- .1 grain. I don't throw 10 to 20 loads then weigh and divide....that only dilutes the inaccuracy of the charge weights. When you only want 3.8 grains +- .2 grains is somewhere between 3.6 and 4.0. Big difference in velocity and recoil!!!!!

Just went to his site and found the holster...ordered Thanx for the info