steviesterno
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Posts posted by steviesterno
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who makes an optics mount that attaches to the frame of a Gen 5 17 without using the front rail? I want to put an optic on my Flux but I'm not interested in removing the flashmag. Milling an RMR makes it too low, and I'm leaning towards a rear sight mount but wanted to see if I had any non-reciprocating options.
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I have a PC and dropped in a SilencerCo threaded barrel, mostly because it was the cheapest option for a 9mm threaded barrel in something I've owned. What I didn't expect was to see it bump up in accuracy. I put a ~3" group at almost 10 yards with the second magazine. I was pleasantly surprised. Annoying that I'll need to mod my holsters but I was impressed.
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On 10/24/2018 at 10:37 AM, Will_M said:
None at the moment, but if I remember I'll try to take a quick one when I get home.
still waiting on pictures
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On 10/22/2018 at 4:38 PM, assaulter said:
I've got several 1911 and 2011 hosts. You can buy a drop in 1911 barrel. It will work fine.
Which barrel did you go with?
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Just now, Will_M said:
Some manufacturers will sell a 9mm endcap for the large bore cans if you're chasing a few extra decibels. But even with an overbored can, there's simply less gas to contain from a 9mm charge vs the powder charge in a .45ACP.
upon reflection, my 45 reloads were like 4.0 gn clays and my 9mm minor stuff was 2.2gn or so. I do not know the volume difference or if it factors in significantly, but I guess it makes sense you would have less powder so less explosion/noise.
I'm not trying to go crazy with quiet. I already do that with 22 subsonics through a bolt gun. that is silly. Just trying to branch into some new areas of shooting and enjoy it more.
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1 minute ago, Will_M said:
Subsonic 9mm is always going to be quieter.
why? I hear mixed things about how there's more room in the tube for gas to go around the bullet. Also 45 seems to be pretty low pressure, I assumed *(maybe wrongly) pressure had a lot to do with noise as well.
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interesting about that keeping the gas in idea. Ok science guys, which is better/quieter to suppress out of the same can 45 can, a 147gn 9mm or a 230gn 45, assuming they are both at about 1k fps?
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1 minute ago, Will_M said:
I shot a match with my Freedom Gunworks 2011 suppressed. I shot Open minor but it was the most fun I've had shooting a match in a long time. The 1911/2011 is the quietest 9mm suppressor host I've shot.
not sure that's the cheapest option
what can did you have on it?
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14 minutes ago, Nathanb said:
The answer is on you. Do you really want a suppressed 1911? If you say yes then do it. I might just try to find a 1911 that isn’t in Baer money range
Closest I've seen so far with a threaded barrel is a Ruger enhanced, and they are $600 right now. But then I think that if I'm going to get a suppressed 1911 I may as well get one with a rail, too, right? and the step up to that is a Dan Wesson for like $1400. I don't see any budget 1911s that have both barrel and rail, but the M&P does. or I can get over the rail I suppose, but where's the fun in that?
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Not the usual competition topic but I know many here (myself included) prefer 1911/2011 to other platforms. And some of us even occasionally shoot for recreation not just practice.
So with that, I’m wondering if anyone has experience suppressing a 1911. I currently have 2 full size Baers, one for single stack and one for carry/HD. I have heard that plopping in a threaded barrel can eventually mess up the stock stuff unless I have a new bushing. Even then it may wear the slide irregularly. Is that true? Having a barrel professionally fitted brings the price up to damn near what it costs to buy an M&P with already threaded barrel.
Is the juice worth the squeeze?
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you don't hear people talk about them because not a lot of regular competitors shoot them in matches. They have a history of breaking MIM parts and generally being not worth the money. They are one of the most sold gun brand in America, but most shooters don't put through a gun in a year what many of us do in a match. I have owned a few, from the small ultra carries to the bigger full sized models. I no longer own any. Not because they gave me too much trouble, but I wanted out before they did.
I honestly think they are a decent product and I would be buying them at $700 or so. but at $1300 and then you have to replace parts to get what you want, not worth it. They spend too much money on advertising (look at literally any gun mag, full page adds, every time) and don't put out anything at Springfield prices.
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Hey all,
ordering a can that hat will work for 9mms, so I was thinking it would be a good time to look for threaded barrel. What’s everyone’s favorite for a 2.0 compact and a 1.0 shield?
Should have just bought them that way to begin with but didn’t know I would be going this way.
I figure mostly use them for range plinking but my 2.0 is my bad weather bump in the night Pistol currently.
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80% frames
in Glock
On 9/3/2018 at 8:07 AM, mike4540 said:Polymer80 seems to be the one I see the most,on sale at the moment on sale at Brownells and Midway ,around $120. I would like to try one as well and this may be a good time to do it.
Polymer80 is who I went with, but ordered from Hinterland arms. under $100 shipped.
On 9/4/2018 at 1:15 PM, Bsbllrooster said:How much work do you have to do to an 80%frame? Drill some holes or is it more complicated?
a bit more complicated, see below.
On 9/4/2018 at 3:31 PM, Gary1911A1 said:Not only do you have to drill three holes on each side, but you have to remove some plastic to make the metal rails fit down into the frame where they can be pin in place to the frame. In addition you have to cut plastic out of the dustcover so the recoil spring unit can fit. Unless you already have a slide and or barrel and other parts you're not using it's not worth it. If you are LE or retired LE or a member of GSSF it's for certain not worth it in cost or frustration.
the newer Gen 2 DOES NOT require you to fit rails. You drill holes for the pins, and in a small Glock that's 2, in the bigger it's 3 per side. THey give you the jig and actually advise you do it by hand, not a drill press. worked fine for me. The rails are a drop in unit, so they are steel just like a "real" glock. no fitting. the polymer you need to remove on the top of the frame can be snipped off with cutting pliers easily and sanded flat. the guide rod channel can be milled out, and then include one. But I don't have a mill and the hand drill got crazy with that bit, so I just used an exacto knife and got the rest out.
On 9/5/2018 at 1:03 AM, Paul49 said:If anyone plans a Glock purchase why not join GSSF for two years for the discounts? It's a huge savings compared to stores here in California. Maybe other states aren't so crazy?
no reason not to if you like Glocks. I honestly think if you're building your first 80% you should get a fully working glock and steal all the parts. that way you can fix one thing at a time rather than try and trouble shoot all the random stuff.
I was a member of GSSF but haven't shot the once a year match in a while. the discount is nice, but there are always people selling the certificates on this page for $425 so that's about what I consider the cost of a new Glock (standard model). the 80% makes sense to me if you don't like the grip angle, want to customize a frame without a risk to your original, you like the idea of tinkering, or you enjoy the idea of shooting a gun with no serial and "sticking it to the man"
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right to bear arms in Texas will serialize the frame and send them out. Not sure what you mean by build them (make them fully functional?) but it's like $40. I have also read on AR15.com that you can have these frames shipped to you in CA, then you serialize them yourself after applying for a serial number from a local agency.
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80% frames
in Glock
19 hours ago, NWfront said:I'm curious about how the revised V2 full size versions are holding up. I've always wanted a 17L but the gen 3's give me slide bite.
I heard that was true with the 26s, too. I hadn't shot one in years but comparing this frame to the stock one, there is WAY more beavertail on the 80%. I would get my finger off the trigger before I would end up getting my thumb web high enough up to get bitten. -
80% frames
in Glock
Anybody using an 80% frame, ether as a custom build or to replace the existing? I just learned about this process and figured I would give it a go. Got a gen 3 26 but the lump on the frame had me pointing at the sky.
So so I ordered the frame, spent 2 hours on it (since I know jack about Glocks in general) and then put it together. I have to say it shoots nice, feels great, and is making me want to dabble in this platform now.
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hey all,
curious if anyone has successfully put a mag extension on an M&P 2.0 compact 9mm mag? I know I can pop a taylor freelance or taran tactical on a 17 rounder, and then use the extender, but I'm curious if anyone has gotten any extensions on the 15 round mag.
HYVE told me through their instagram that it would work, so I logged into the website and in big letters they say it won't.
I like the idea of having 15+1, 17+1, 15+5, and 17+5 round mags so I can tailor capacity to how I'm carrying it. any suggestions or anyone try this stuff yet? -
I bought a shield 9mm PC and have been carrying it for I think almost 2 years. It shoots well, low recoil, carries easily, etc. My buddy liked it so much he bought the 45 shield. We have both shot it fewer than a dozen times. It may have been ammo choice (230gn ball) but the recoil was punishing. like being punched in the hand. I'm not recoil sensitive but a full mag got me to put it down and shake out my hand. Not debating caliber or anything but the shield in 45 was downright unpleasant to shoot, where the 9 I end up taking to the range every time since it's comfy and shoots like a bigger gun.
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appreciate the pointers, but the guy bailed on the deal... so no need to order anything quite yet
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hey all,
checking out a Marauder tomorrow. I've been looking for either one of those for a while but had never seen in real life. I was also looking towards an STI tactical in 9mm. I want something good for steel matches, 3 gun, night matches, Home defense, and zombie invasions. Sometimes 20+ rounds of 9mm makes more sense than 8 rounds of 45. I have the chance to trade into it, and I haven't owned any STIs recently. I have owned a 4.0 Tactical and full custom 40 6" when I used to shoot USPSA.
anything I should check out or pay attention to? I already have 3 mags and it comes with one more.I imagine finding a holster that works with a light will be tricky, and I'm thinking it's too big to conceal carry but that's ok.
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1 hour ago, Larry White said:
One thing to consider, the end of the world emergency part of the thinking, the 556/223 is the U.S. military round. 5.56 will be aviable, 300 not so much.------------------Larry
1 hour ago, rishii said:Bingo
my criteria for ammo is can I go to a gun store/Walmart anywhere and get ammo for it, 223 yes anything specialized or exotic no
sure and I get that. to be fair, my SHTF thought is I need 300 rounds of stuff on hand. If I'm getting in that many gun fights I'm either dead or entitled to field pick ups. so either way, no need to hoard it.
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1 hour ago, RangerTrace said:
Yeah, I think it's gay that we can't shoot a PCC or any center fire rifle at DPC. You're much less likely to put one of those over the wall.....
sucks. Subsonic suppressed 300 would actually do less damage to stuff than some of the handgun calibers they allow. oh well, i'll probably build a 9mm AR "pistol" with brace just so I can stay legal. Dumb I could do that with a 20" barrel but can't test fire my Kel Tec sub2k 9mm. though with those new signs I'm thinking they are having people breaking rules
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11 hours ago, RangerTrace said:
If money is a factor...all .223/5.56 all day long. If it's not and you want the most versatile round our there... .300BLK. Sure 5.56 will get you an extra couple hundred yards compared to .300BLK, but in a self defense/hunting scenario 200 yards is plenty. I like the flexibility to run heavy/quiet subs or 125 supers in the exact same rifle.
@RangerTrace Well money is always a factor, but I thought with only going through a few hundred rounds a year the difference between 223 and 300 becomes much less of an issue. Same reason I still shoot 45s. I only shoot 100 rounds a month or so, and the extra $9 won't kill me.
I shoot at the Dallas Pistol Club more often than anywhere else, so not able to stretch legs or shoot anything more significant. Part of me wants to get a scorpion or MP5 with a brace just to practice with 9mm, but the other part of me remembers how much 22 ammo you can buy with that expense.
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I'm thinking about standardizing to a single caliber for my non-22lr long guns. I used to shoot 3 gun a lot, so 223 made a lot of sense. it was cheap, easy, and I ran a ton of rounds hrough it. I currently have one SBR lower, a few pistol lowers, a few regular lowers, and enough spare parts to go kinda crazy with building.
Truth is, I don't shoot 3 gun anymore. I'm not allowed to shoot rifle rounds at my home range, and I only go to a neighboring range like once in a while. Maybe a few hundred rounds a year anymore. I still like the platform and want one for HD/end of the world/emergencies, etc. But i switched out my HD gun to a 300 BO pistol the other day and got to thinking well damn, now I have to switch the mags in the bug out bag, the extra mags in the truck, the box-o-mags I have loaded, etc.
Would I be better off switching to all 300 BO? I could change over all the mags and my ammo stock pile (i'd keep the 223 stuff I think). But then I could do a 300 pistol with supers in it for the truck, and the SBR with subs for the house. I would/will eventually get a 300 can to maximize it's usefulness.
I'll still get to practice and play with a 22 version of whatever I have, and all it would really take is a barrel change for my existing guns.
the price difference between 300 and 223 doesn't seem so major now that I'm just not shooting the volume I used to. I don't really hunt much if at all, so that doesn't really factor in.
what do you say? is it worth while to switch all to one caliber or just get out of the AR platform completely?
frame optic mount for 17.5 w/o using rail?
in Glock
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yeah but that doesn't work for a Gen 5 frame they are saying.