gr7070
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Posts posted by gr7070
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What's a fair price for once-fired 38 spl cases? Straight from the range, dirty, fired primers.
I'm in Austin, TX if that matters.
Much thanks in advance!
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On 9/6/2019 at 9:44 AM, revoman said:
A friend of mine picked one up for $750 in Kansas used
That's about what I figured I paid for mine, maybe $700???
It was well used, came with about $500 worth of used items or upgrades.
I paid $900 for all.
I was happy with the deal.
Bud's selling them for $900 NIB sounds incredibly low. Typically I see Bud's sell their S&W revolvers at about 80% MSRP.
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On 9/6/2019 at 9:30 AM, ysrracer said:
The guy I bought it from had a bunch of revolvers that were new in the box. I got the feeling he had "money".
Would that not make it used, and thus Like-NIB?
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Interesting. Thanks!
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51 minutes ago, MWP said:
By definition, the “comp” that is included with the 929 is actually a port- two different things.
Ports don’t do the same things that comps do.
Please enlighten me, curious.
FWIW S&W calls it a compensator. I'm sure they choose their verbiage based on marketing more than anything.
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It came with the black TK moon clips. Looking at their website their isn't a thickness option for these, only the SS?
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Much appreciate the replies!
The current trigger is quite nice as is. No clue what weight it is. Seller guessed 9ish pounds, which sounds reasonable??? However, if I can reliably shave some off of it with a few added modifications I might.
Only modifications it has, is a 12# rebound spring and thousands of cycles.
Definitely will consider an extended firing pin. Unsure I want to fit a new hammer for it, nor bob the existing. However, for significant gains I may. Is a stone needed for fitting?
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7 hours ago, AzShooter said:
My trigger pull was 4.5 pounds and had no problem with Federal primers. For their loaded ammo I would stick to 6.5 pounds.
Is that with any substitutes? Mainspring? Extended firing pin? Others?
Does an SAO hammer help significantly?
Thanks!
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I picked up a new to me 929 and have a few questions.
Is the compensator effective? Has anyone done any timed comparisons, at a reasonable volume?
Any negatives just leaving it off completely? The non-compensator looks like it gets plenty dirty.
How low a trigger pull can I get away with using factory Federal/American Eagle ammo (I won't be further seating the primers).
Can I use any gun solvent on the titanium, Hoppe's #9?
Also both faces of the cylinder are black. I assume this is "soot" not a coating? Do folks normally not spend the elbow grease on cleaning it thoroughly?
I have a BMT on the way.
It came with TK Custom clips. Guga Ribas holster.
Anything else I should know about a 929? Tips?
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Thanks to all for your input!
I went into this expecting to get an R8, largely due to its light weight. However, I corrected course and have picked up a used 929 at a fair price.
Looking forward to knocking down some steel. Quickly!
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8 minutes ago, PatJones said:
What's this IDPA talk? You need a 6 shot revolver for that game. You can shoot an 8 shot, but you can only load 6 rounds. Click, click, boom on every cylinder.
Also, the IDPA powers that be have declared that anything longer than a 4 inch barrel is unsuitable for carry. Many of us shoot 5 inch or longer barrels in the other games.
If you want one revolver to work for USPSA and IDPA you'll be compromised somewhere. ICORE has divisions that overlap with both. I don't know that it matters in steel.Understood with regard to IDPA. Though I believe that now allow an "open" category, at least for "not sanctioned" IDPA matches. It's actually been a number of years since I've completed seriously in IDPA; have always used my 686.
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I'll actually be shooting mostly local Steel Challenge and home-grown action games without power factor requirements, but with on the clock reloads. Very, very little true USPSA.
Looks like I've got a handle on preferences and reasons for it. Much appreciate all the input!
I don't mind working on the revolver; I've changed out springs, pinned front sights, etc.
I've been learning towards the R8, but may have to reconsider for the 9mm reload. Though I like the idea of the low weight R8 and slightly lower recoil of 38.
I actually have an older 627, but was thinking about selling it in exchange for an R8 or the 929 - looks like my used current 8-shot is highly sought after (627-PC with unfluted cylinder; yes an actual dash PC). Figured if I was going to swap it out, I'd start from scratch and get one intentionally for games.
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It sounds like the choice is truly only about the caliber and nothing to do with the gun itself. I was think the M&P R8 and it's far less weight would be optimal???
Is it mostly about moon clips and holding the brass tightly over everything else?
Is it power factor? I know American Eagle has met IDPA's 105 in the past.
What's the reason for 9 over 38? Hoping to learn the reasoning behind the choices before I move forward.
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25 minutes ago, J_Allen said:
When you say you own both calibers already, do you mean 357 mag revolver and 9mm semi-auto? If you don’t reload, then I feel like you would have to go with a S&W 929, since you are not going to find 38 short colt on the shelves. But even then, do the 929’s run factory 9mm out of the box? Don’t have any experience with that myself. My advice would be to take a serious look at getting into reloading first.
I do mean 38 spl./357 magnum revolvers and 9x19 autos. I would not be shooting short colt.
I use 38 spl Federal American Eagle ammo in my revolvers currently and whatever cheap 9mm I buy.
While I appreciate the suggestion I will not be reloading. I don't have the interest and I don't shoot enough to justify the cost.
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So I'm looking at buying an 8-round revolver. I'd use it to shoot a bunch of the different "action" games; Steel Challenge, local action games, USPSA, whatever.
I do not reload.
Of the (readily available) options out there which model do y'all prefer and for what reasons?
Edit:
Re: caliber I don't know that I care, per se. I own and shoot both already. However, if one has a preference I'd like to here the preference and reasoning for it. I don't shoot tons; so cost isn't incredibly important, but it does help.
Thanks!
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I have a buddy who shots some random matches and will shoot IDPA and USPSA.
He wants an FO front and an adjustable rest from Dawson Precision.
Do y'all have any recommendations?
He also wants a trigger job which of the following options are the way to go:
A. Trigger job on factory trigger
B. Drop in trigger kit, no trigger job.
C. Trigger kit with a trigger job.
Lastly will any trigger kits affect being in IDPA SSP?
Much thanks.
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Whoops.
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Jerry recommends the lower hold, I just expanded upon why I I believe it works.
http://www.shootingusa.com/PRO_TIPS/MICULEK2/miculek2.html
Instead of all that force abruptly going into your hands because there's less give in your arms/hands with the bore aligned with your arms/wrists/hands, with a little bigger lever arm (distance from bore to your have) there's more give in your system and your hands don't perceive that full, abrupt force.
That's my theory anyway.
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S&W had a small run of 8-shot model 27s, too.
They're hard to find but if you're on the prowl don't automatically pass by blued N-frames assuming it can't be an 8-shot. Granted, it's almost assuredly not.
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Grip the X-frame guns lower to allow for a bigger moment arm in the recoil which will lessen the felt recoil by lengthening the time of energy absorption.
You'll have greater muzzle rise, obviously, but that isn't a negative with typical uber-caliber usage.
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While this could be the problem I suspect it's the opposite.The mag release is going in far enough when depressed that it drags on the magazine. Extend the cut out on the left side 1/16 of an inch and it will make your problem go away.
I have medium/small hands and have to adjust my grip to press the release. On the clock, once in a while, I suspect I'm not getting around enough to get enough pressure or maybe the mag hits clothing and doesn't drop all the way out before I release the button.
I'll explore pushing too far on it, but suspect that's not it???
Much thanks!
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If you're only hitting the mag release very quickly and not holding it down, one option that may help is to snip a coil or two off the mag catch spring. Would make it easier to depress and the normal amount of pressure you use would likely open it further/longer.
I think this may help the problem. Thanks!
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I'm right handed with average-sized hands at best. Does anyone use right-side/ambi mag release in competition? I'd need one that is idpa-legal.
Any photos of one on your guns would be much appreciated as well.
I shoot a Springer Loaded, 9mm.
Thanks.
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**new info**
I've spent a decent amount of time inspecting, playing, checking. It's possible I might have found the issue. I appreciate all the help above, but none of the suggestions seem to be the issue.
Only way I can reproduce the same affect is if I ever so quickly press the mag release and the mag didn't eject quickly enough and it is held in the mag release.
I'm guessing I either don't press it quite long enough once in a while or maybe more likely the mag hits my vest or hand or something that stops the mag from falling and then is caught be the mag release.
This seems most likely at the moment.
I did buy some Dawson 10-rd mags and will see if the problem persists when I use them or only happens when I'm using the 9-rd Metalform.
Much thanks to all!!
38 spl case price
in General Reloading
Posted
Literally just want to know what's an appropriate price. Not trying to sell anything here.