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js82

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Looks for Range

Looks for Range (1/11)

  1. Unsolicted info: I've been shooting Steyr M and MA1 series in USPSA/IDPA/steel for years and have several. I recommend you pick up some Big Taco GlideRite cups to replace the C weight/washer that is in the striker spring rod, which will smooth the trigger quite a bit. You may also try his reduced weight striker springs, but they may produce light strikes or fail to reset in some pistols. Usually a "very heavy" trigger in a Steyr comes from the LEO versions that had an over-large C weight/washer to increase pre load. You actually already advised me so in the steyr section You didn't tell me about the LEO versions having an oversized washer though. Interesting. Would you happen to have a picture? I fired with a glock and the trigger feels light in comparison. Unfortunately I can't buy those mods cuz I'm not located in the US. I can't even get the replacement extractor claw Sorry about going off topic here.
  2. I have a steyr M9A1 that has a very heavy trigger pull. What I found to work for me with my gun is to pull the trigger back and outwards (to the right for right handed shooters). That's at least what it feels like for me. The finger to trigger contact point is closer to the tip than the joint of the finger for me.
  3. I just had bladeless lasik 3 days ago. My vision was instantly about 20/12.5 for both eyes the day after. Question... can I go shooting on the 4th day? The doc said I can but I shoot indoors so I'm a little worried. BTW, any of you guys ever heard of the horror stories of flaps getting dislodged?
  4. Question about shooting with both eyes open... I noticed that I can focus both eyes on the front sight and alternatively I can focus only one eye on the front sight while the other eye's input is ignored. When I focus with only one eye the "triangulation" focus of the eyes seems to be at infinity so there's 2 of everything (front post, rear posts, and target). Which is the correct way of focusing? With both eyes focused on the front sight it's clearer but gets super confusing when there are 2 identical targets next to each other.
  5. What really helped for me was the drill of shooting as fast as you can into a backstop while looking at the front sight. No target. I think it's part of Matt Burkett's timing drill or something. It helped with both the flinch and the blinking. Using good hearing protection definitely helps too.
  6. Thanks Flex. I don't know what's up with my memory but I thought BE said the shooting hand wrist should be locked. So how do I grip the gun with my shooting hand applying front and back pressure without locking my wrist?
  7. I have a problem when I try to grip the gun with my shooting hand using front to back pressure (with finger and palm). When I do that a gap starts appearing on the palm side of the grip. Not only that, it changes the neutrality of my support hand grip and causes tension on my right wrist. When there's some tension on my shooting hand wrist the recoil feels heavy and the sights don't go back down onto target. But we're supposed to lock the shooting hand wrist, right? When I relax my shooting hand wrist the recoil feels so light with my 9mm that I don't even bother shifting my weight forward much anymore.
  8. Thanks for telling me to shift my weight more. It seems to help if I take about half a step back with my right foot. The recoil doesn't seem to push me back as much. Here's a new video: http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xhe2xk_wrist_sport About tension... I've noticed that when the slide is back in battery my arm is still high. So I tried tensing up my firing hand wrist and it seems to help get the gun to not wobble twice like in my first videos - my arm is in place when the slide is back in battery. But as you can see from this video it turns out I'm breaking my firing hand wrist. Those are supposed to be 2 shots but the 2nd round didn't go off. Anyway, I tried correcting the support hand thumb but I don't know if that's still too much tension. I feel like when I relax it takes longer for my arms to come back down. Ugh. And here's a slow motion video of my arm flipping upwards with the gun. That's what's really slowing me down along with my whole body getting rocked from it. http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xhf4oc_slowmo_sport
  9. Here are my results from shooting with splits of about 1.5 to 2.5 seconds. I didn't get to try it at 15 yards unfortunately. First picture is 100 shots at about 10 yards. Second picture with the grouping below is 50 more shots at about 10 yards again. Is this good enough or should I practice accuracy more before I try to tackle speed? I know my shots seem to stray to the left and down a little.
  10. You might ask BT (his real name is Bill). He is a buddy, and I am one of his guinea pigs at times. I would also call or email Jeff at Steyr and ask him for a new extractor. I just got off the phone with Jeff and asked him about this, he recommended the extractor first, and was not enthusiastic about shaping the ejector. Make sure that you have the dome shaped extractor plunger, and not the bevel/angled extractor plunger. That part is immediately visible behind the extractor and is what pushes the extractor. If it looks round, you are fine. If it has an angle, ask for the new domed plunger also. It is free either way. The email is jreece@steyrarms.com, include your address. Jeff is a really good guy, but is busy and I sometimes have had to ask twice to get the stuff. If you call him he still wants an email with address in it. I have the dome plunger but the extractor looks like it's the older type. Thanks for all your help Ben.
  11. I'd be thinking of reshaping the ejector. Or send to Jeff at SAI. They replace the C-washer/spring retainer on the striker spring rod. That washer causes drag and inconsistency. These are really a cheap, simple, slick solution with no known downside or trade-off. http://btguiderods.com/category/steyr-acc/ I'd like to try reshaping the ejector. Is there some site that shows what shape it oughta be? Interesting spring retainer. The striker spring looks interesting too. Never knew about those!
  12. Ok, so I gotta check my grip tension too. The Burkett Timing Drills sound pretty hard towards the end. .25s split time at 15 yards? I'm gonna be getting quite a few misses. Totally appreciate the input. First thing I'm gonna try it shooting accurately while leaning forward more - that oughta tell me if I'm flinching. Then I'll try the drills.
  13. As it's been already mentioned, your base is undoubtedly your biggest issue. You need to move your body weight towards your toes (with very little weight bearing on your heels). Also, the position of your fingers show a lot of tension on your grip which will result in you fighting the recoil (sometimes referred as "driving the gun"). You need to relax your grip a bit and point your thumbs forward while you concentrate on squeezing the trigger straight back. Don't be so focused on speed just yet. Concentrate on your accuracy; speed will come (BE PATIENT). If there is one thing that I would recommend against is a "double tap" (one sight picture/two consecutive shots). It is pretty much universally accepted throughout the shooting sports community that this is a poor technique. In the long run, you will be better off taking two well aimed shots whether you do this at 7 yards or 35 yards. I'm gonna try leaning forward more. I'll even lift my heels off the ground. I'll also experiment a little with how much I should bend my elbows. My firing hand thumb is up cuz if I point it straight it stops the slide lock from functioning. As for the other thumb I'm just trying to avoid contact with the gun. I should place the firing hand thumb on my support hand instead, huh? I'll try that out as well. As for the accuracy I'm pretty sure I can get decent accuracy when firing slowly. I'll take another video this weekend to see. Thanks! Yeah, I've read everywhere that double taps are no good.
  14. I would do the plunger spring trick 1st. it should extract everything, unless the chamber is gunked up. The chamber is tight, so a small amount of buildup can fuq that up. Get B-T glide rite spring cups for the striker spring. they are cheap and make a difference. After that I stop.I have 6 Steyrs, am working off the last 2% points to A-class shooting Steyrs in Production. I tried the plunger spring trick and it made the brass more consistently hit me in the face. When I insert an empty casing into the chamber it doesn't get stuck. Anyway, I've pretty much given up on that part. B-T glide rite spring cups? Can you explain that? I'm really not familiar with these things. Thanks for your help!
  15. Yeah, each shot rocks my body back quite a bit. And it's pretty obvious that cuz of this my arms are not in place until my body returns to its original position. In slow motion the gun can be seen going up and down twice. I guess I'm not leaning forward enough. Is there anything obviously wrong with my arm position though? Elbows too straight or bent? I don't have a proper holster to do draws with since I don't think I'm at that level that I need to practice my draw.
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