Ben Diss
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Posts posted by Ben Diss
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I have an XD and an XD-m that will "fire" with slide back about 1/8", but I would think that since the round is not up against anything in front of it at that point, wouldn't the stryker just put the round forward? I'm gonna make some powderless rounds and see if it will ignite the primer...
I think the slide didn't go fully forward as the gun was very dirty at that point. Perhaps the chamber was dirty enough that the round wouldn't go forward fully until the chamber closed on it.
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Posters in other threads on this forum have suggested that leaving the stock spring in the gun and adjusting your load to run well is a better approach for this gun. That's what I'm doing and I haven't had any reload related problems with it.
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That's interesting. I looked at the head and the primer is heavily cratered and flat. Still, keep in mind this gun will fire with the slide pushed to the rear 1/8" inch.
My "non-smithed" M&P will fire when the slide is back about 1/8".
As I mentioned, when using a 13# ISMI spring mine would not completely go into battery yet pulling the trigger would release the striker. That was enough to dimple the primer and fully close the slide giving the impression of a light primer strike. Thankfully I was using CCI primers or I might have had a K-boom like yours. That happened about 6 times during a big match and I was convinced it was light primer strikes until I got home and did some closer inspections.
What was your reload? Bullet, powder and COL?
3.6 V320, MG 147 JFP, Federal primer, mixed range brass.
Interesting that yours will fire with the slide back 1/8" also.
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Take your rear sight off and check the striker block.
Striker block is working good. Firing pin is not exposed and the block doesn't go forward unless the block is depressed. Keep in mind I think I pulled the trigger when this happened, so that means that the block would have been depressed by the trigger bar.
I recently had a round with an inexcusably high primer that I didn't notice and loaded happily. The slide was just barely out of battery but the striker fell and put a tiny dent in the primer.
I think I very narrowly escaped a kaboom.
Perhaps this happened here and you were not as fortunate as I was.
That's interesting. I looked at the head and the primer is heavily cratered and flat. Still, keep in mind this gun will fire with the slide pushed to the rear 1/8" inch.
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Is there any way to adjust the disconnect position on an M&P?
I don't see how unless you bend it.
With the slide off can you push the striker forward enough to be exposed, without depressing the strike block?
What recoil spring are you using?
It might be time to put all the factory stuff back in and call S&W for service.
I'm glad you're OK
Can you explain more what you mean by "depressing the striker block?"
It's got the stock recoil spring. Only thing changed is the Apex AEK and RAM are installed.
I'm probably calling in by the wrong name.
It's the plunger that has to be depressed before the striker is allowed to spring forward to hit the primer.
With the slide removed, guide rod assembly and barrel removed, push the striker forward. It should NOT move unless the plunger is depressed.
I'm running an ISMI #15 recoil spring with well over 20K rounds and have had no problems with the factory striker spring. I tried an ISMI #13 and it wouldn't go into lockup 100% so I quit using it. (IIRC Dan had warned against that)
There's another thread going similar to this that Dan has replied to. He'd be the guy to ask.
He's reworked an M&P for me and it's really sweet to shoot.
I see. I did as you suggested and the striker block does indeed prevent the striker from moving forward.
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Hope Iam not out of line here, but did you shoot a 9 out of a .40?
The blown brass looks to be larger in diameter than the live round
in your photo.
My thought as well.It looks like you have a .40 or .45 case next to a 9mm.
It's just the pic. I pulled that round out of the gun. The case is expanded since it was fired, but that's it.
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Did you pull the RAM out when you put the stock trigger assembly back in?
How many rounds on the factory recoil spring? IIRC, the replacement schedule for that part is fairly low on an M&P.
Indeed, grime in certain places (especially the chamber hood) can definitely keep a gun from going fully into battery. However, touching a round off in that condition is problematic indeed... And 1/4" is quite a bit.
Gun is new with maybe 500 rounds through it. I've only had it a couple of weeks.
I haven't taken the APEX kit off yet. Didn't see how that could effect this, but if it's suspect I can certainly rip it back out.
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Is there any way to adjust the disconnect position on an M&P?
I don't see how unless you bend it.
With the slide off can you push the striker forward enough to be exposed, without depressing the strike block?
What recoil spring are you using?
It might be time to put all the factory stuff back in and call S&W for service.
I'm glad you're OK
Can you explain more what you mean by "depressing the striker block?"
It's got the stock recoil spring. Only thing changed is the Apex AEK and RAM are installed.
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Thanks for coming back to this thread and updating it. I see what you did now. Thank you!
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These are my loads, using Federal primers, MG 147 jackets bullets and 3.6 V320.
I think what happened was that the gun got a little dirty and slide didn't close completely, yet trigger reset and I was able to fire it. I'd like to think that what should have happened is that I would have not felt the reset and discovered a malfunction that needed to be cleared.
Is there any way to adjust the disconnect position on an M&P?
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Bang-bang-bang-booom. Sparks shot up everywhere and my hand stung. A little puzzled, I took inventory. No blood, gun was in one piece. Called the RO over and we looked everything over. Locked the slide back and found the case head was loose inside. The rest of the case was still in the chamber. Here's what it looks like next to a loaded round for comparison.
From what I can remember, I had fired a round, held the trigger for reset and squeezed off the next round when this happened. This was during a rapid fire string of 6 rounds in 6 seconds so everything happened fast.
At home, after a thorough cleaning and exam, I discovered that the gun would fire even when the slide was moved back out of battery about 1/8-1/4". I have installed an APEX AEK on this M&P 9 Pro and I polished the trigger bar. Thinking that maybe I removed some material, I replaced the trigger assembly but it's had no impact. The gun fires with the slide out of battery.
Thoughts on this?
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To those wanting pictures, I will tear it down for cleaning after the match and get some pictures up soon.
I'd like to better understand where you removed material. I'm not clear on that. I've got this gun too, and while I haven't had any FTF I haven't done much work on it yet. When I do, I want to be sure that I don't run into the same problem that you had.
Thanks for sharing this the group. You're going to save a lot of us a bunch of aggravation.
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Love to see pics of exactly where worked the action.
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Not really. They get much cleaner with no polish residue left on the cases and the time in the machine is significantly reduced. I also don't miss getting little bits of corn cob in the primer seating hole in the press.
If you're a little OCD about how clean your brass is (like me), then ceramic or stainless media is the way to go. If it just has to be clean enough to function, then corn cob is fine.
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I can't get mine to jam. Tried everything. I refuse to clean it. I couldn't be happier.
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For the guys that had to send the SWFA back, how old are your scopes? In my readings I saw where that was an issue with earlier scopes.
Mine was from the first shipment. Your comment gives me hope that the replacement might fare better.
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My SWFA 1-4 has to go back too. The illumination has failed. Read of several others with the same issue. While the glass is great and the FFP is real nice, I find the reticle isn't focused well unless you find the sweet spot in the very center of the lens.
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Let's see the data. What's the min, max and standard deviation for each group? Average doesn't tell you much.
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What kinda fiber optic sight is that? It's hella long - bet it's bright.
It's the Champion 3mm, 5".
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I got this fiber sight for it too.
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Splits on the shotgun isn't what wins matches.
I feel more recoil with the M2. However, it points faster...it's lighter, and balances better. It's more reliable, and easier to load/operate.
The Benelli is king for a reason.
Words to live by here.
Don't be a puss.
You won't feel the recoil after the buzzer and no matter what shotgun you shoot muzzle flip is gonna be there. Its not like your double tapping paper like you do with a pistol so all of your muzzle flip and subsequent site recovery occurs as you swing the shotgun to the next piece of steel.Hey Jesse, thanks for weighing in but it's too late.
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Is anyone shooting Montana Gold 55gr? I can get them locally so I'm wondering if they shoot good out to 300 yards?
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Got the SLP today. That trigger's gonna need some work.
Which SLP model did you get?
I got the Mk1 with 22" barrel that has the weaver rail on it. I also picked up a 24" vented rib barrel that I'll be using for 3-gun. Shot about 200 rounds so far and don't care for the weaver rail at all as it blocks too much of the sight picture. Will be shooting the VR barrel this weekend.
You won't feel the recoil after the buzzer and no matter what shotgun you shoot muzzle flip is gonna be there. Its not like your double tapping paper like you do with a pistol so all of your muzzle flip and subsequent site recovery occurs as you swing the shotgun to the next piece of steel.
Out of Battery Experience
in S&W (M&P, etc)
Posted
Winchester