jaggy13

I had this same thing happen to me. My best explanation is the extra reciprocating mass is hammering the back of the tube as well as forward. Allowing the pin to bounce out. My solution was to remove some material from the end of the buffer tube to allow for one more rotation. Actually "fitting" the part so it's in there perfectly. I'm several thousand rounds in now. No issues. Good luck!

It depends on your threads, but a few of us have been experimenting locally. We are mostly running 1/2x28 so that we can try more options. For that thread pitch, my favorite option is the Alcuin .22 break. It's aluminum, so it opens up easily. Has huge ports so helps with the timers. For 1/2x36 I really like the JP. Good luck!

I think I have this solved. I turned out not to be a mag, but more specifically it was jamming from the left side feed. I noticed bullets where damaged from loading and with the help of another shooter in PM's I was able to isolate the issue. My ejector was never touching the bolt, but my feed ramp was. I used my iPhone and the "Slowmo" setting to record a round being loaded into the chamber. I noticed that the right side was feeding fine, but the left side was just a tad low. I broke the rifle down at the take down pin and separated the halfs only about 10 degrees. Then bottomed out the mag block and closed the rifle up. I dropped the bolt slowly, chasing it down and saw where the high spot was on the front corner of the ejection port side of the feed ramp. I just took the corner town a hair and then tested both sides again. Now I'm not getting any marks on the bullet and they seem to be feeding straight into the center of the chamber. Thanks for everyone's input. I hope this helps someone else down the line.

I was able to replicate the issue again only on mag2. I'm going to shoot a match tonight and use just mag 1 and mag 3. I'll try and be as systematic as possible and note any malfuntions. I shot 200 rounds both saturday and sunday with only malfuntions on the top half of mag 2. Round 13 or earlier. I just cleaned the extractor and checked the tension. everything looks great and i can snap an empty case in easily and yet it holds it tightly. I'm apprehensive to start cutting or bending it at this point.

I just left the range and was finally able to recreate the issue then it got worse culminating in a seized bold in the almost rear position. When I pulled it apart, the buffer retainer was pinched and wedged against the bolt. I may have been getting some drag from the retainer causing the feed issue. I'll keep an eye on it and see how it goes.

Thanks for the reply's. The RRA mags are metal form. Also the round looked fine, no primer strike. And unfortunately.... Not 380 brass. At this point, I'm thinking its mag break in. I'll keep ya posted as I get more rounds down range. Thanks for the comments!

My PCC is a cold mag block RRA with bolt hold open and 3 RRA colt style 32 round mags. I have had the following malfunction twice but am still in the first 1000 rounds so not sure if it will work itself out or not. The malfunction is a failure to fire, but the round is in front of the extractor. So it's getting in the chamber ahead of the bolt. I think it's happened with the same mag both times, but haven't been able to recreate it. My mags are numbered, but I was on the clock when the malfunction happened. So I didn't get a chance to confirm. Do I need to undercut the extractor? Or is this a mag tuning issue? All three mags appear to be working correctly and all feel similar when loading. But when emptying, they have a tenancy to "Spit" rounds out. as I slip a round out, sometimes 2 or 3 more rounds will follow... For the most part, everything seems to be running really well and i'm not short stroking, its locking open on last round hold open. Thanks in advance for any advice!

Thanks zack, that's kind of what I was thinking. I was hoping for some other match directors to chime in and let me know their feeling to see if it's something they would allow with no penalty.

Hey everyone, I am a match director for Steel Challenge in my area. We have had a great turn out the last few years and it grown almost out of our control. I have had some older gentlemen that I have made concessions for as the Match Director to allow them to shoot from the center box and not move penalizing them with a 3 second per run. as described in the "Special penalty". Here is my question... I am left handed and have been running the coarse of fire as described. (From week side to center box.) I have nerve damage in my left leg and sending a shot from my left leg only (as I would enter the center box) is very diffacult. I feel like it costs me a .25 to .5 seconds per run. With center fire I'm shooting an average of 5.75 per string and rimfire rifle I can get as low as 4.10. If I were not the match director, I could ask the match director for an exemption which I am confident I would get. But... If I want to get competitive, and actually try and shoot some major matches, I wouldn't want to practice a way that I could not perform when it counted. What do you guys think? Would I be able to shoot matches from the left to center box as a right handed person would? PS. My understanding of the movement restriction, or how I explain it to new shooters is " in case a reload in needed it helps the person with muzzle control." I am comfortable enough with that movement, I am not worried about breaking the 180. Thanks in advance.

I had my shot this week and it does seem to help. the swelling is definitely down from before. My doctor reminded me again that rest was the most important thing... I've been stretching and resting it. He told me I could do some very light weight reverse curls. 1 to 5 lb's....3 reps of 10 and that's it. I think the grip trainer will help prevent it, but I don't think it would be a good idea for my elbow right now... It's something I will be adding to my daily exercises, once I heal that is! If someone could take anything away from my experience it is; don't overdue it and only do work that doesn't hurt. My tenancy is to want to crank out reps with heavy weight and make it strong fast... That just doesn't work with this injury. Thanks for posting this, it's great knowing I'm not the only one going through this.

I use a tac 30 with a 50/200 zero. Top of my dot is on at 100 (gives a finer point of aim for that range) Then at 300 plus I use the smaller dots in the BDC. I've been using it for 2 years now and have never felt that I needed more refinement. I actually prefer this reticle to most. The main dot is 2moa the BDC get smaller the farther the range is. It works for me, but I can understand if it doesn't work for you.

I injured mine ( strong side) back in August. I had a couple big matches in September so I tuffed it out. Made it through that and started a very similar regiment very similar to yours. Even started with an orthopedist. I'm on month 4 of light duty with no shooting or even dry fire until today which is a one time deal. I'll be continuing my rehab without a pistol for a while yet. Mine is very slowly getting better but only if I compare it to several weeks ago. The healing is so slow even a week has no effective change. I tried working the extensors with rubber bands like you described, but I'm still a ways out from that. Lifting my pistol from the holster to presentation is excruciating. If I manipulate the pistol week hand, I can break shots without pain, but if I draw, the pain is there for days. Then pulling the trigger is so painful I have a hard time not pulling shots low. When I took my break, I set my sights on today ( New Year's Day match) to mark my return/ recovery. Now I am hoping to be ready for area 1 in May.... For what it's worth, twisting a screw driver or turning a wrench as well as grip pressure are what I have noticed hurt the affected tendon.

You may need to tune your extractor. I had similar issues with a new build. As we tuned it the jams became less frequent until finally gone. Undercut, tension and in my case a little polishing of the chamber. If the rim can't slide under the extractor while picking the round it can cause this type of malfunction. Good luck!

My 2 piece is how you describe the length. Can you get the bushing to turn if you assemble the slide when removed from the frame? Sometimes it will allow the guide rod to ride higher on the link and get you the extra .1 you need. If it where mine, I would probably hit it with a file and shorten it. Just gives you more options if the gun ever seizes and you can't take the top end off to disassemble it.

is it a 2 piece or 1 piece?

Thanks for posting this, Just ordered one!

Yeah, it's just black. The goal is that it should last longer than blue. At least I hope it does. The nice thing was the dimensions didn't change like hard chrome would. If I can get the life of chrome and a black finish that would the best of both worlds for me. If it just lasts as long as my Glock finish, I'll still call it a victory. Thanks on the stipple, working on the grip durring a couple lunch breaks while the gun was sent off to finish was all it took.

Finally got it back! here are some pic's. I'm really happy with the finish. My barrel was not included, they said too many rounds had been fired. Not sure why that's an issue, but still very happy with the pistol.

Right on man, I think you'll like it.

here's the mag release that I use. JP extended mag release. http://www.jprifles.com/1.5.3.5.php attachment is my G35.

I'm lefty and picked up a JP oversize in a trade. I tried it out mostly because I had it and ended up filing the underside edge flush with the section of the mag release. My strong hand middle finger slides right under it in my normal grip and allows me to use the first knuckle of my middle finger to drop the mag. With a standard mag release I use the end of my middle finger to drop mags and the JP is faster and requires less movement/less regripp. I shoot limited and scsa as well as 3 gun with this setup. I also carry in a milt sparks IWB or kydex pancake. Never had a problem. It doesn't extend much more than a standard extended, but the oversized button makes all the difference for me. I'll post a pic later if interested.

I ran the Wilson's and wished I'd gone with trip or Dawson. The Wilson's worked well but they were so tight fully loaded that reloads where tougher than they needed to be. Once I switched to a short ejector I stopped having as much issue but something I wished I'd know about before I bought 7 of them....

What calibur? Do you want reliability? Capacity? Best value? I found a ton of info on .40 in the FAQ.

My experience was the mostly with the slide and barrel that made me choose other options. After about 7k I started noticing a burr on the rails of the slide, my gunsmith explained that the slide was expanding laterally and coming out of square. He snugged it up once but told me the steel in that slide may not be capable of much more tensioning. After 10 k it was back to loose again. The effect it had was at slide lock or rear most travel of the slide, the slide would cant to one side or the other digging the frame rails into the slide cuts. Whenever I cleaned it I would chase the slide and debur. The bbl was also beat up on the link and ramp area. My original budget allowed for a barrel so that was ok to replace. The frame seemed fine and fire control is reasonable to change at that point as well. But the slide? Not for me. It took it out of the price point for me. I could have continued to shoot it and maybe got to 15k before catastrophic failure but I say it's a 10k pistol based on a buyer guideline. If your going to to shoot 10k a year or more through it, I think it's more cost effective to go another direction. If you want to build it up over time, it may be a good solution for you. Mine was a great pistol, it shot well and was reliable, long term though... It was not. I shoot about 20k a year and for me it just wasn't going to cut it. If you've had better luck than me, great! I still recommend them for plinkers. But in our game I spend more on ammo than the firearm, I want it to last.

He's right, and a 35 converted to 9mm is also not legal in limited until the 2013 rules come out. Your best bet in my opinion is to use the 34 frame and swap top ends for the division your going to shoot. ( in 2013 of coarse).